Currie 9" Rear

For anyone who is interested. this bolts right up with no modification to the car at all. literally add oil and go. the invocie of parts is below with some pics. the unit is extremely quiet, no added NVH above the stock 8.8, and looks badass if i do say so myself. i would suggest coating it in soemthing to prevent rust, however, as it is bare metal

MAKE MODEL YEAR ENGINE APPLICATION
Ford Mustang 05 N/A Street/Strip

RE Dimensions - Overall: 66.125 Pin Offset: 0 Brake Space: E 2.5 Drum Rotor: 0.315


AXLES
STYLE: 9+CTF STYLE
TYPE: Tapered-T&E
SPLINE: 31
PTRN: 5 On 4.5 Inch
STUD: 19/32 Disc
REG DIA: 2.800
DR AXLE: 29.997
PAS AXLE: 34.374

HOUSING
9-Plus Notch STYLE
END TYPE: 9+ Torino/LB
BRKTS
HSG WDTH: 60.495
DR HSG: 24.362
PAS HSG: 26.114
DR TUBE: 20.335
PAS TUBE:22.087

3RD MEMBERS
9 Inch Ford (9IN)
RATIO: 4.11S
SPLINE: 31
DIFF: TrueTrac (TT)
YOKE: 1330-Short 9+ ( C )
CASE: 9+ Nod Sportsman (S)
PIN SUPP: 9+ Race [R]


Brakes:Factory Disc
Inst: USE CRATE REAREND


Item Number Description Price Total
3M-9IN411S31TTSRC 9 Inch Ford (9IN) 4.11S Ratio - 31 Spline - TrueTrac (TT) Diff. - 9+ Nod Sportsman (S) Case - 9+ Race [R] Pin Sup - 1330-Short 9+ ( C ) Yoke
$1,436.30

UP-FR Freight Quote
$311.00

CE-9013 85-140W 9-PLUS (I QUART) - EACH $5.95 (3 Needed)
$17.85

CE-FDM0507X HOUSING AND AXLE PACKAGE - MUSTANG 2005-2007 - 31 SPLINE AXLES WITH TONE RINGS AND CALIPER BRAKETS FOR OEM BRAKES
$1,349.95

CE-0118 ASSEMBLE REAREND (INSTALL THIRD MEMBER AND AXLES)
$99.95

CE-7015DS DRIVESHAFT - ALUMINUM - ONE PIECE - FOR 2005 AND NEWER MUSTANGS
$699.95



FREIGHT: $311.00
SALES TAX: $0.00
COST OF PARTS: $3,604.00
TOTAL: $3,915.00

Now from reading that and the pics.. You went with the Nodular Iron center section..?

I would only use the Aluminum one as our cars already have enough weight.
I still think its crazy to go with a 9" and stay with a 31 spline axle. If a 9" is really needed going with 35 spline (or higher) gun drilled axles and a spool is really the way to beef up the driveline. Then again lots don't like drive around with a spool.

I have seen too many guys messing up their 31 axles, so I can't see spending 3K+ for a 9" setup only to keep using a 31 spline. Too bad the only 33 spline 9" LSD I could find was an auburn other thne spools

Edit: I did remember that you can get a 35 spline 9" Detroit locker but you need an aftermarket 9" ford case that will support it. Which is what I would go with if I do put a 9" in the TT project car

VSOP said:

Now from reading that and the pics.. You went with the Nodular Iron center section..?

I would only use the Aluminum one as our cars already have enough weight.
I still think its crazy to go with a 9" and stay with a 31 spline axle. If a 9" is really needed going with 35 spline (or higher) gun drilled axles and a spool is really the way to beef up the driveline. Then again lots don't like drive around with a spool.

I have seen too many guys messing up their 31 axles, so I can't see spending 3K+ for a 9" setup only to keep using a 31 spline. Too bad the only 33 spline 9" LSD I could find was an auburn other thne spools

Click to expand...

hey i posted it as technical info, not to discuss what i should have done lol . i went with iron yes. it was cheaper at the moment, by a lot, and my intentions when i ordered were to get it in the car asap as i couldn't take the gear noise since i trashed my 8.8. the weight is in the rear so its negligible. if it were in the front thats a diff story. also i didnt forsee the accident either and if i coulda told the future, i would have gotten the aluminum. iron is stronger anyway.

since it is a DD as well, any higher spline axels than a 31 would prevent me from running a tru trac or a limited slip differential, something i wasnt willing to comprimise on. not all of us are building stricktly track cars. i like to enjoy mine on cruises as well.

Next thought you would have is if thats what i wanted, why not get a 8.8 again. because the 9 is stronger and only cost me 4-500 more than getting a new 8.8, getting it beefed up, axel tubes welded, axel brace, new gears, installation and labor to setup the gears, plus a new differential. so all in all i made the right choice for me.

Hey 35lbs more is almost half a tenth in the 1/4th... lol

I did find a Detroit locker which is very streetable, but you need a Aftermarket case to run it with 35 splines so I'm sure it would have been over budget. I just like giving you a hard time for the Nodular center section.. hehe

VSOP said:

Hey 35lbs more is almost half a tenth in the 1/4th... lol

I did find a Detroit locker which is very streetable, but you need a Aftermarket case to run it with 35 splines so I'm sure it would have been over budget. I just like giving you a hard time for the Nodular center section.. hehe

Click to expand...

i know you cant fight your postwhore tendencies haha. i had a budget, i stuck to it (first time ever haha), and i met all my goals so i think i did a hell of a job. plus mine is bigger than yours

FYI most rearend companies do not recommend aluminum center sections for cars over 3k lbs. I would not run one for the 15-20lb weight savings knowing that it is more likely to break in a 3500+lb street car.

glad to know i made a good choice then. Thanks Kev for the info

I have fallen in Love with this 9"
http://www.moserengineering.com/Pages/Housings/hous-moserm9.html

You have to admit that its one awesome looking piece.. Wonder if it can be made to work with a 3 link.

I see currie makes an 9" housing and axel tubes in all aluminum, wonder what power levels it can handle..

currie also makes built 8.8 rears with 9" housing ends welded on like David Beyer runs.

Hey Ron,
In your pic I don't see the panhard bar.
How much space is left between the panhard bar and the rear end?

it wasnt in yet peter. he was installing the rear when i took the pics, and the panhard bar hadnt arrived yet. the BMR one was bent like a pretzel.
ill see if i got any pics of the area for you with the panhard but i doubt it. i should get the car back mon or tuesday from the side skirt install/repalceing the p/s pump so ill make sure i get you a pic

VSOP said:

I have fallen in Love with this 9"
http://www.moserengineering.com/Pages/Housings/hous-moserm9.html

You have to admit that its one awesome looking piece.. Wonder if it can be made to work with a 3 link.

I see currie makes an 9" housing and axel tubes in all aluminum, wonder what power levels it can handle..

Click to expand...

Moser offers their fabbed 9" rearend as a bolt-in for '05+ Mustangs it is $140 more than their standard '05+ 9".

It isn't the HP that kills a rearend housing it is torque and weight I wouldn't even consider an aluminum center section let alone an aluminum housing in a street car that is 3000+ lbs. There is a reason they don't recommend aluminum center sections in heavy cars.

I was not going to run the Aluminum Housing, just wondered what they rated it at.

I'm actually telling people its TQ all the time not the HP that matters when it comes to your Driveline. I'm right now split between a built 8.8 with 9" ends and just a fully built 9" setup. Either way I will be sure thay I get the rear powder coated as I hate looking at the stock rust bucket.

If its only $140 more for that sweet moser fabbed 9" rear I might just have to go with that for the TT car, but it might be abit much for the whipple car. We shall see..

Kinetic energy is what breaks these things, right?
1000FTlbs slowly applied is easier to cope with than 1000ftlbs instantly applied, right? (i.e. impact air tools do a lot of work with liitle actual torque).

BTW - Currie says the 31 splines are good to 700 HP/Tq

I am newly sensitized to that limit - as it appears I bent some parts back there long before their advertised limit - so if I did this is would be with a 35 spline.

And to qwkquope's question - yes... torque applied quickly is more damaging than torque applied slowly (i.e. impulse)... It would appear I have an axle shaft to prove it...

Ron, excellent post and info. I searched for Ford 9" and came across this thread. This is exactly what I was looking for.

I think I am going to do this setup and have them send me two 3rd members...a 3.00 ratio with tru-trac for city driving (OD OFF) & long interstate cruises (OD ON), and then either a 3.70 or 4.11 with a Detroit locker for racin!

Here's the latest link they have for building your own crate system:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsCR.aspx?id=2886&p=1349.9500

Thx,

Mike

glad i could help haha