KNOWLEGABLE Engine folks ...inside PLEASE

Bottom line ....I need a replacement block to build upon. It needs to be STANDARD bore and ALL of my 3 valve stuff needs to bolt right up..heads,timing components,knock sensors,front cover and all accessories. If machine work is required THAT is not a major issue...everything just needs to work off my 06 engine. Weight is not really an issue so aluminum is not a requirement. I need it to be STRONG and have longevity. What do I need to find? Teskid, stock replacement (not really what I want...the one I have has issues that I don't want to repeat!), Aluminator? Please tap into your data banks and tell me what my options are and what I need to try and find. Thanks Don

Are you getting new pistons?

Teksids are hard to find, even more a block that is in good shape and who knows what was the use it got in the last 10 - 12 years.
Aluminator engines use stock replacement aluminum blocks (05+ GT), so they´re good for almost any aplication.

No I am just transferring the rotating assembly and everything else to a different block.

The stock aluminum block is as strong or stronger than the Teksid block. What problems were you having with it that makes it so undesirable for you?

I developed a water leak. After having to drop the k member to find it I found the block leaking when it got to temperature out the side of the block just above the passanger side motor mount. Apparently I have a bad/weak/thin casting that core shifted. When it is cold you can not even SEE a crack and you have to look closely when it is up to temp to see it. But bottom line is that the block is cracked and leaking water.

I think that is just a fluke. In my opinion, you should still look for a stock replacement. They are the available everywhere, and stronger than Teksid blocks.

My 2 cents...
Stock block, bore and stroke. Updgrade the pistons, rods & crank.

I also think it is just a 'fluke'. If you want simply swap over, just get another stock block IMO.

Don,
Sorry about your troubles I would say the stocker as well. Plenty guys running it.

Strange... two guys named Don have aluminum blocks that cracked due to core shift.

In your case (based on your desire to keep the rotating assembly), I agree with the others to get a new 3V block. I opted to go to the iron big bore block. The only thing I need to change is the pistons. Everything else is a direct swap.

don_w said:

I opted to go to the iron big bore block. The only thing I need to change is the pistons. Everything else is a direct swap.

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lol and i thought i was a bad influence lol , but anyway call rick at livernois im sure they could hook you up with a new 3v block cleaned up already ..... or even pmp kevin&all might have some around the shop

I went with a cobra cast iron block. For an 05+ block, I believe this is the first actual failure I have heard of that didn't involve a hole from a stock rod.

don_w said:

Strange... two guys named Don have aluminum blocks that cracked due to core shift.

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Yeah, what are the odds.....

I got an iron block that would fit. Kar Kraft has a couple 05+ blocks available

Dex said:

I got an iron block that would fit. Kar Kraft has a couple 05+ blocks available

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How much for them?

This is the first stock block I have heard of failing due to something other then a rod window.

I think around 700 shipped. check ebay

ZmanM3 said:

This is the first stock block I have heard of failing due to something other then a rod window.

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Yep...it's intact ....except it started leaking...Its the original 15000 mile block..but it has had a Roush Charger, a Whipple and now the turbo...but still the failure does seem a little odd. The realy weird thing is it didn't even leak on start up or when cold...only when it got to temp....I have a repair that is holding for now but i want to replace it to be sure I don't have a problem again down the road. From reading the inputs here...I'll probably just get a new stock bare block from Kar Kraft...dunno for sure yet. Just gonna take it easy and drive it til then.
Thanks for all the input.

Dex said:

I think around 700 shipped. check ebay

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Thanks dude will do

Quick question for you: You are FI, but are you still running the stock rotating assembly? If so, you might want to go ahead and replace the crappy stock rods and probably pistons as well when you move to the new block. You have to tear it all down anyway and the rods and pistons do not cost that much. Getting rid of those cheap ass cracked metal rods will REALLY do a lot to increase your long term reliability under FI.