Backroads corner-carving: What kind of setup for fun/safety/performance

mrgtx · Feb 16, 2015

I goes without saying that we all obey the speedlimits...but with that in mind, is fun to a seek out a curvy back road and push a car a bit.

Much of the talk in this forum is centered around competition in auto-x and road course driving...but do any of you guys focus on road handling and non-competition driving fun?

The same setup that would be competitive in track/auto-x environments isn't always ideal for environments with a few more variables, occasionally less than perfect surfaces, etc...and a generally more varied set of challenges.

How have you set up your car for back-roads corner carving? Are you happy with the results?

csamsh · Feb 16, 2015

The key difference here is that in a competition environment, we set the car up to be adjustable, and to perform well on the edge of its traction circle, and to be fast. All of those goals don't really line up with what makes a "fun" street car.

A street car setup for me would probably be Bilsteins, P or K springs, camber plates, panhard bar, LCA Relo brackets, and square 18x10's with RE11's or something else good in the rain....and that would be way too much car for any public road.

Champale · Feb 16, 2015

mrgtx - Some excellent advice from csamh.

I went even a little further with my car for exactly the type of driving you are contemplating (I have spent 20+ years driving sportscars and riding sportbikes on Texas Hill Country back roads). I have tried a few different combos on my cars (first a 2012 Boss and now a 2013 Laguna) - Steeda Ultralites and P springs were both fine, but they overpowered the rebound damping of the OE dampers. I was contemplating Konis or Bilsteins but ended up biting the bullet and getting fully adjustable KW V3 coilovers for my Laguna (Jegs had them way cheaper than any other vendor at the time). They were a bit soft with factory settings but I finally found some good settings after a little trial and error. They are not harsh at all over bumps, they just soak them up, even on much stiffer settings. Plus, fully adjustable ride height is nice if you need it.

I also have aftermarket LCAs (Steeda alloy with spherical bearings), UCA and bracket (Steeda), LCA relos (Whiteline), cc plates, adjustable PHB, and PHB brace and I would recommend doing the same because they all have combined to make the car so much more composed over bumps and through corners.

RE-11s are very good street tires, maybe not the be all and end all in terms of grip but overall they have excellent manners on the street. I am running 19x10s with 285/35/19s RE-11s all around and overall am very happy with the setup (although I contemplating stickier tires - does the tinkering ever end? Hah!).

Sky Render · Feb 16, 2015

Decent dampers, springs, and sway bars is all you really need. You're not driving anywhere near the limit on the street to need much more than that (I hope).

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk

Pentalab · Feb 16, 2015

Watts link + eaton Tru-trac / torsen makes for a good street combo, it stays planted. Back end doesn't dance all over the road, if hitting bumpy corners.

sheizasosay · Feb 16, 2015

150 shot of nitrous, an ejection seat and a gopro.

Lucky_13 · Feb 16, 2015

Champale said:
mrgtx - Some excellent advice from csamh.

I went even a little further with my car for exactly the type of driving you are contemplating (I have spent 20+ years driving sportscars and riding sportbikes on Texas Hill Country back roads). I have tried a few different combos on my cars (first a 2012 Boss and now a 2013 Laguna) - Steeda Ultralites and P springs were both fine, but they overpowered the rebound damping of the OE dampers. I was contemplating Konis or Bilsteins but ended up biting the bullet and getting fully adjustable KW V3 coilovers for my Laguna (Jegs had them way cheaper than any other vendor at the time). They were a bit soft with factory settings but I finally found some good settings after a little trial and error. They are not harsh at all over bumps, they just soak them up, even on much stiffer settings. Plus, fully adjustable ride height is nice if you need it.

I also have aftermarket LCAs (Steeda alloy with spherical bearings), UCA and bracket (Steeda), LCA relos (Whiteline), cc plates, adjustable PHB, and PHB brace and I would recommend doing the same because they all have combined to make the car so much more composed over bumps and through corners.

RE-11s are very good street tires, maybe not the be all and end all in terms of grip but overall they have excellent manners on the street. I am running 19x10s with 285/35/19s RE-11s all around and overall am very happy with the setup (although I contemplating stickier tires - does the tinkering ever end? Hah!).

Champ, what settings did you end up on with the V3's (ride height and damping)? I think I'm going to run 285/35/19 RE-11's this season as well, and have been tinkering around with my V3's since I got them towards the end of last season.

dontlifttoshift · Feb 16, 2015

sheizasosay said:
150 shot of nitrous, an ejection seat and a gopro.

The nitrous won't work without a torque arm.... :stooges:

Champale · Feb 16, 2015

Hey Lucky 13 - I went and dug up my notes. Hope this helps.

Measurements taken from the ground to the fender, going through center of the wheel: Front 27", Rear 27 3/8".

Rebound from recommended: F +3 clicks, R +2

Compression (Bump) from recommended: F +1/2 turn, R +1/2 turn.

Lucky_13 · Feb 16, 2015

Thanks a ton! I've just been using the off-season to fool around with different settings and learn some things about damping. Also just a heads up, if you want a stickier tire in the same 285/35/19 size, the BFG Rival is now back in stock at Tire Rack if ya want to try them out. I have a set of 10.5's, so I'm debating running 305/30, but that sidewall is tiny :/

Champale · Feb 16, 2015

That is good to know, thank you!

Rivals are definitely on my list, with your 10.5s you should try the 305s out. They aren't that much shorter than the 285/35s. Plus, if 305s are good enough for the Z/28, then they are good enough for our Mustangs!

sheizasosay · Feb 16, 2015

dontlifttoshift said:
The nitrous won't work without a torque arm....

That sounds perfect. I have heard it will supercharge your suspension and cure cancer?

Champale said:
That is good to know, thank you!

Rivals are definitely on my list, with your 10.5s you should try the 305s out. They aren't that much shorter than the 285/35s. Plus, if 305s are good enough for the Z/28, then they are good enough for our Mustangs!

Yeah but the rubber that comes on the Z is in another league. Is it 60 or 80 treadwear? Either way...RE11s is 180 or 200.

Champale · Feb 16, 2015

I was trying to make a joke . . . guess I didn't do a good job!

Yes the Z tires are ridiculous. And ridiculously expensive - $575 each at tirerack.com.

Department Of Boost · Feb 17, 2015

Sky Render said:
Decent dampers, springs, and sway bars is all you really need. You're not driving anywhere near the limit on the street to need much more than that (I hope).

This^^^^^

I've taken my 2012 Brembo car out to the twisty stuff a couple of times now. I don't want any more "performance". I drive at psychotic levels on the back roads and the stock stuff is not only plenty good, but it prevents me from going past psychotic into "Seriously, WTF dude?". Plus it's more fun when you get some feedback from the car.

I have a car that is set up really well. I have no interest in railing some back roads with it. It would be boring because there is no way I could push it enough.

That is with a Brembo car though. For a base GT suspension some decent dampers, slightly more aggressive springs and maybe a rear bar would be nice.

For back road blasting I would be more concerned about brakes.

Department Of Boost · Feb 17, 2015

dontlifttoshift said:
The nitrous won't work without a torque arm....

You run hollow link bars with nitrous in them. :thumb2:

sheizasosay · Feb 17, 2015

Department Of Boost said:
You run hollow link bars with nitrous in them.

Hey turdzilla....why don't you go lay down about 250' of rubber , through an intersection in a school zone. :crazy:

Department Of Boost · Feb 17, 2015

sheizasosay said:
Hey turdzilla....why don't you go lay down about 250' of rubber , through an intersection in a school zone.

That was BEFORE the school zone. :thumb2:

And it was summer. :boobies:

And I rule.

dontlifttoshift · Feb 17, 2015

you're gonna fly off a mountain

claudermilk · Feb 17, 2015

dontlifttoshift said:
you're gonna fly off a mountain

LOL

for what comes next...

mrgtx · Feb 17, 2015

Great insight in this thread! Thanks, guys...
I will hold off on school zone burnouts, however...even though kids love a good smokeshow (or, at least I did when I was a kid!!!)

So I ordered up a set of Bilsteins and Eibach Pro springs (1" drop in the front, 1.5" drop in the rear), GT500 strut mounts and an adjustable panhard bar from the helpful folks at Vorshlag but I held off on the Camber plates and sway bars for now.

I'm still on the fence about ordering those since the budget is pretty tight and I still have tires to buy. How critical are those components?

I have an adjustable upper control arm already...

Will the geometry of the LCAs be screwed up?

Backroads corner-carving: What kind of setup for fun/safety/performance

forum member

forum member

forum member

Stig's Retarded Cousin

forum member

Alive

forum member

forum member

forum member

forum member

forum member

Alive

forum member

Alpha Geek

Alpha Geek

Alive

Alpha Geek

forum member

Senior Member

forum member

Similar threads

Support us!

Sponsor Links