Track Setup Questions

Hey All,

So I have a dilemma. I have new Koni Sports, Steeda Ultralite springs, Steeda HD strut mounts, and Steeda front and rear sway bars for the mustang (many thanks to all who I've bought parts from on here). But, the Koni's haven't shipped yet (only part I bought new) and there is no expected shipping date on them and my first HPDE track day is April 16th.

Question: Should I install all the other goodies and take it to the track day like that or leave the system alone until the struts arrive? I could see the parts I put on here really benefiting from the new struts. I'm just worried that my stock struts will be really thrown off by all the other mods (roll bars) and make the car handle like crap (and be scary dangerous on the racetrack).

I have already installed the GT500 front brakes w/ Agent 47 cooling kit so was thinking maybe just doing the springs and mounts to get the CG lower for the harder braking (don't want a lot of nose dive).

Any thoughts? And yes, it sucks to have parts laying around and not getting to install them.

I would participate in the HPDE event next month and run the car with the mods you have now (those items that you wouldn't need to reinstall) - minus the Koni adjustable shocks that are backordered! Your car is safe and will handle well enough with the stock shocks for now - unless they are totally worn out.

Is this your first HPDE next month in level 1? If so, then this may actually be an advantage because you'll learn valuable "car control" skills with the softer shocks. If you're a more experienced driver, then you'll now how to compensate for your setup, such as braking, late apexing, etc. Have fun!

This will be my second year of HPDE's so not a complete novice. That said, I'm by no means a pro. Which is probably a good thing because I don't push it overly far.

If it were me, I'd wait; otherwise you're installing all that stuff twice.

'Zactly... Wait on it, until you have the whole package together. If you do it bit by bit, the first thing that's going to happen is that you have a *new* car to get used to, again, and again, and again... Best bet is to run what you have now, get the maximum value from the seat time, and then, when you have the whole package together, pop it on, and plan on your next event turning into a glorified test-and-tune session as you get the car settled in, and get used to how the car reacts. IF you put part on now, your next event will be a TNT, and then repeat after you do the dampers. In the long haul, I would wait, and just get the maximum possible benefit to the track time to dial in what really matters: the driver!

Just do it once, so wait till you get ALL the parts. The hardware is not supposed to be used more than once, but you can generally get away with one or maybe two re-uses. If you take everything apart twice you probably should shell out for new hardware, which is pricey.

Moreover, if you get an alignment after installing everything but the struts/shocks, you'll need to get aligned a second time after you disassemble the front struts again. You could skip the alignment the first time but you might wear your tires really fast if something is out, especially on a track.

Another option is to cancel the koni order and just get some D-specs. Heck, if I was waiting this long I'd do the same. They clearly don't have their shit together.

agree with all, last thing you want to do is re-install every thing twice. what better way to aprpeciate what the oem can (can't do for you) versus what the aftermarket choices you have made can. hopefully timing will happen at your DE, that way you can have a good bench mark to illustrate improvement.

like the majority, i also believe you should wait.

is this your first HPDE ever? if so, you probably will be more worried about learning the basics than actually pushing your car to its limits - and if you can do both on that same day, well, props to you! It will be good to get an idea of how the car handles stock, so that you have a base to gauge exactly how every suspension piece you want to install will make your car handle differently.

i say grab some dot4 fluid and some good tires (if you haven't done either already) and just go for the track stock. this time, focus on learning the track and doing your best to find the quickest lines - next time out you can focus more on the changes and dialing in any adjustable suspension pieces. oh, and don't forget, HAVE FUN!

Pull the order on those shocks and put it towards good tires if you don't already have some serious rubber. Don't put those springs on your stock shocks. I'd put the bars on and call it a day until you decide to buy a different brand of shocks or keep waiting on the koni's.

Springs only lower abt an inch - OEM struts can handle that. I'd shave 1" off the bumper stop as it could bottom out. Unless you dislike the idea of double work, I'd use what you have and have fun while you wait for the Konis. When the Konis arrive you'll be able to know what they actually bring to the table.

Get rid of those springs

Everyone, thanks for all the comments and advise. I agree that doing an alignment twice is going to suck and cost more money, but then again don't know when the Koni's will ship out. I'm still thinking about it but leaning towards installing most of the parts because I've already got some track time from last year. I found the limit on the brakes and had to replace those before my next event... which made me start replacing everything else to help control nose dive and while I was at it, sway bars were a bonus.

marksti said:

Get rid of those springs

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This is not helpful... Is there a reason why? Or how about a good substitution?

If you're updating your brakes, make sure you're switching out to a DOT4 fluid like ATE Gold/Superblue or Motul RBF600 if you haven't already.

ArizonaGT said:

If you're updating your brakes, make sure you're switching out to a DOT4 fluid like ATE Gold/Superblue or Motul RBF600 if you haven't already.

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Yes, brakes are already on with the brake cooling ducts. The brake fluid I used last year was cheap Prestone DOT4 which does not work well. Brand new fluid and I boiled it (with the stock brakes). This time I'm going with ATE SuperBlue. I have the GT500 front brakes with the stock pads. When those are gone, I'll bump up to something better.

Had a lot of problems with my brakes when I got started. After some trial and error (and a couple set of brakes). I went to an agressive Cobalt racing pads - change my brake fluid at least 3 times a season with high temp Dot 4. Solved the problem. Only drawback is the pads tear up the rotors but the take-offs are so cheap its not much of a problem. Added 3" brake ducting over the winter for added insurance.

Ultralites aren't a road race spring...I ran them and switched for the better after my first track day

Good drag race spring tho

Eibach/Steedacomp/Ford racing etc etc are better

latch5 said:

Had a lot of problems with my brakes when I got started. After some trial and error (and a couple set of brakes). I went to an agressive Cobalt racing pads - change my brake fluid at least 3 times a season with high temp Dot 4. Solved the problem. Only drawback is the pads tear up the rotors but the take-offs are so cheap its not much of a problem. Added 3" brake ducting over the winter for added insurance.

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I think our brake cooling ducts will help out tons. I put a 3 inch on mine as well using the Agent 47 kit. BTW, the lower grill on that kit SUCKS! There are 3/8" gaps on both sides that I'm having to fill with black weather stripping.

marksti said:

Ultralites aren't a road race spring...I ran them and switched for the better after my first track day

Good drag race spring tho

Eibach/Steedacomp/Ford racing etc etc are better

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Thanks for the info. Were the Ultralites bad due to low rate or did they not put the car in the correct ride height? What did you switch to? The Ultralites were recommended to me by Strano on this forum for my setup. One of my issues is I have the 3" magnaflow catback system and getting the rear axle to clear those 3 inch overaxles is a tight fit with stock height, so I didn't want something that would lower my car a long ways.

marksti said:

Ultralites aren't a road race spring...I ran them and switched for the better after my first track day

Good drag race spring tho

Eibach/Steedacomp/Ford racing etc etc are better

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I just looked up specs on the SteedaComp and I think those will be the next set I try. I got the ultralites for a really good deal on here (Thanks latch5) and will give them a try for the year at least.

I really liked them for the combo (street/track) use. Usually ran with my neighbors in the Porsche Club. They both commented how level I stayed in the turns (with stock sway bars & Tokico Ds). The set up I have now will be better for the track but giving up a lot of comfort on the street. I kind of like it but I would never try to sell the car as a DD with this set up. My opinion is if you end up a track junky you might change later. If not, you'll be happy eith the UltrLites.

I'm running the Steeda Competition springs with an SC. They are a linear spring which I was told makes it easier to fine tune the shocks compared to a progressive rate spring.

As you can see from my list of mods below my car is very heavily oriented to track days and is a bit harsh and noisy as a DD.

Here is a thread that shows the different spring characteristics;

http://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...ng-rates-and-heights-no-guessing-allowed.html