Longer Wheel Studs

what is the arp part number for these?

The rear can be done, tigerhonaker has pics on here of brenspeed installing them.

the mcgards should be fine with stock studs as well. im just going to clean them up very good and use the stocke studs

tmcolegr said:

Today I ordered longer ARP wheel studs for the front hubs & rear axles to accompany my new McGards open end lug nuts. Couple of questions for those of you that have already done this job:

When reinstalling the front hub assemblies, did you replace the dust caps as recommended by Ford, or just the retaining nuts?

Can the rear studs be replaced without removing the axles? Ford's Service Manual clearly shows them being replaced with the axles still in the housing using a c-clamp device to remove them and using a nut with washers to install the new studs. Can the new longer studs be installed using this same procedure?

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When I did mine for the front i reused the nut and dust cap. that was 2 years ago and there are no ill effects.

It MAY be different on a 9" rear end housing but I was able to knock out a stud, rotate the axle, knock out another, ect ect. To install i did them the reverse.

I just threaded a stock lug nut onto one of the studs and hit it with a hammer. 1-2 hits per stud and they were out. To reinstall I got some threaded tool online, cant remember where, a stack of washers, and just kept turning it till it pulled the stud into the axle. It was a piece of cake.

classix_stang289 said:

what is the arp part number for these?

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100-7722 - Front (Package qty. 5 - requires 2 packages)
100-7723 - Rear (Package qty. 5 - requires 2 packages)

white05gt said:

The rear can be done, tigerhonaker has pics on here of brenspeed installing them.

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I looked through some of his threads but couldn't seem to find anything. Perhaps someone could post a link

94tbird said:

When I did mine for the front i reused the nut and dust cap. that was 2 years ago and there are no ill effects.

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Outstanding!!

That's what I needed to know. Unfortunately I wussed out and already ordered the retaining nuts (F3LY-3B477-A - $13.19 ea.) for the front hubs from my local dealer as they were non-stock and I wanted to have them on hand for today. That right there should have told me most people reuse the old nuts. I plan on reusing the grease caps.

94tbird said:

It MAY be different on a 9" rear end housing but I was able to knock out a stud, rotate the axle, knock out another, ect ect. To install i did them the reverse.

I just threaded a stock lug nut onto one of the studs and hit it with a hammer. 1-2 hits per stud and they were out. To reinstall I got some threaded tool online, cant remember where, a stack of washers, and just kept turning it till it pulled the stud into the axle. It was a piece of cake.

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I spoke with Jim III at JDM after I made this post and he confirmed the studs can be changed without pulling the axles on the 8.8" axle. Ford's instructions even state to use a lug nut and a stack of washers to pull the stud into place. I just wasn't sure if there was enough room behind the axle to install the new longer studs or if the axles had to be removed. I have Strange Engineering's C-Clip Eliminators and really don't want to remove the axles as they currently don't leak - hopefully the C-Clip Eliminators won't be in the way. I should have replaced the studs while I had the axle completely disassembled. Hindsight is 20/20. Do you remember where you purchased the tool from?

Thanks to all for responding

Interesting note about these studs. When I spoke with ARP yesterday, they made sure I was aware these studs were cadmium coated and not to use any type of anti-seize or lubricant whatsoever. The cadmium is the lubricant and is heat activated when the lug nuts are torqued.

holy crap i found it

http://www.mustangwheelspacers.com/studinstallationtool.aspx

I used that to draw the stud into the axle but turning it with a large wrench. I still have the tool too, i just found it. DONT get their removal tool though. The removal tool just bent in half when i used it. Removing them with the hammer/lug nut method was truly the best.

looks like all your answers were covered...except...if you bought the FRPP front hubs with ARP studs installed they come with the new nuts

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M1104A/Ford-Racing-Mustang-Front-Hub-Pair-With-3-Arp-Studs

I found a need for both 25mm and 26 mm sockets.

I put the front Ford Racing studs/ARP without removing the hubs. I had the rear axles out already for my brake conversion. I just used some spare 1/2-20 nuts spacers to draw the studs in and an impact wrench. Just keep an eye on the studs so as not to break them if you have an impact like mine.

Has anyone used the Moroso studs? They are a LOT cheaper than the ARP's, but they are black...

honestly, when it comes to bolts, stds, ect there is NOTHING better than ARP. Ive never had a problem with aRP anything.

For those of you that have already swapped your studs, bear with me as I'm sure I'm making more out of this than necessary.

As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, I was concerned about having to remove the rear axles to swap the studs. Several of you reassured me that the studs could be swapped without removing the axles. So my next concern was, will my Strange Engineering C-Clip Eliminators be in the way? I can confirm the old studs will come out with the axles in place, and the C-Clip Eliminators are not an issue during the removal process. However you do have to rotate the axle until the stud is in just the correct position to allow for clearance of the stud as it is removed. Also as the stud is removed it must be rotated so the flat shoulder on the stud is toward the C-Clip Eliminator housing, providing the extra clearance required. Hopefully the new ARP studs (which I haven't received yet) will go in the same way. You'll also notice the brake rotor and caliper are still in place - did not remove them.

Front Stud Installation

Finally had time to install the longer ARP 100-7722 front studs today. Here's information some may find interesting...

OEM studs protrude through the rotor approx. 1.500" and have approx. 1.250" thread protrusion through the rotor. True thread engagement is approx. 1.000"

To replace the front studs I removed the caliper and rotor

After removing the front hub I removed one of the OEM studs to compare it to the longer ARP stud. ARP stud has approx. 1.000" more thread length than the OEM stud.

Replaced all the studs and reinstalled the hubs, torquing the new retaining nut (F3LY-3B477-A) to 221 ft. lbs. Probably should mention the factory installed nut required a 35 mm socket. The replacement retaining nut required a 36 mm socket. A 1 7/8" socket worked great for installing the grease cap

Reinstalled the rotor & caliper - you'll notice I'm running GT 500 brakes

ARP stud length protruding through the rotor.

100-7722 ARP Stud compared to McGard 63000 Open End Lug Nut

McGard lug nut w/offset washer installed in Race Star wheel. McGard lug nuts with offset washers are approx. .250" shorter than the actual hub thickness of the Race Star wheel. After doing some basic calculations the ARP studs with McGard lug nuts have approx. 1.900" of true thread engagement. That almost twice the thread engagement over the OEM studs.

Race Star wheel installed with lug nuts torqued to 100 ft. lbs. with no lube as per ARP's suggestions (cadmium plated studs do not require lube - cadmium is heat activated and provides required lubrication when the lug nut is torqued).

McGard 63000 open end lug nuts are long enough to use the black plastic plugs supplied with the lug nuts

Total installation time - 2 hours start to finish

the front hub absolutely needs to come off to change the front studs? you cant rotate to where the open portion of the backing plate is? i havent looked back there in quite some time so im not sure, thats why i ask

i also removed the hubs to change mine. i dont think you can do it with them on the car. If it were that simple i dont think ford would offer new hubs with the 3" studs already installed

94tbird said:

i also removed the hubs to change mine. i dont think you can do it with them on the car. If it were that simple i dont think ford would offer new hubs with the 3" studs already installed

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good to know, thanks.

classix_stang289 said:

the front hub absolutely needs to come off to change the front studs? you cant rotate to where the open portion of the backing plate is? i havent looked back there in quite some time so im not sure, thats why i ask

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I'm not going to say that if you removed the caliper and rotor, then rotated the hub to the opening where the caliper was, you couldn't remove and install the studs. However, removing and installing the hub assembly is a 5 minute job. I removed mine so I could use an arbor press to remove and install the studs.

well i just bit the bullet and purchased the ARP studs.. i also ordered a new hub/bearing assembly from rock auto cause my driver side is starting to get that annoying humming noise so its on its way out.

If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for the hub?

Here's why I'm asking

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M1104A/Ford-Racing-Mustang-Front-Hub-Pair-With-3-Arp-Studs

Seems like this may have been very close to what you probably paid and you would have received hubs and studs.

90bucks for the hub on rock auto, only ordered one hub. only needed one cause one is shot

what you posted would have been great if i needed both, but i dont need both....good find though for anyone who is interested