Recent content by rugedraw

FYI: I added the Lucas additive, and it didn't do much. It seems to have quieted the rattle during start up a tiny bit, and shortened the time it does it by maybe a fraction of a second, but the knock is still there, and it still sucks.

Sh*t.....that's anywhere from $300-$400 in labor alone. I think I'll just try adding some additive for now to quiet it, and I'll go to town on it if it gets worse or when I get out of the hole I'm in right now. My daughter just turned 1, and I spent A LOT of money on her party. I can't afford...

Yup..........that's the sound the makes my testicles retract into my scrotum every time I start my car. It doesn't do it constantly as in the video, but that's the sound, for sure. I guess I'm going to get to know my motor well.

Better? :) So you can't tell if the phasers are bad just from removing the valve covers? They actually have to be taken out? I'd have to find a good write-up, then. Taking things apart is easy.....but then I'm not sure how to put it back together and I may make things worse.

So the shop would have not been able to see that the tensioners were bad or worn just be removing the valve cover? You must remove the timing chain cover to see them? The reason I ask is because I want to make sure that this is something they shouldn't have missed within the scope of their...

That is a good point and really what has me stumped. It could be that the new oil offered enough initial lubrication to shut it up for a while, but the damage was already done and once that effect wore off, it started doing it again. However, before he oil change, the problem was worse. Along...

Thanks for this info. Do you know if you can see these tensioners with the valve cover removed? The sound seems to be dominant from the driver's side head, so this was the only valve cover that was removed and nothing was found to be worn down. I'm thinking: If the tensioner on the passenger...

My car has 55K miles, and I am trying to call the shop to see what kind of filter they used, but I am not getting an answer right now. I will come back and post with the brand of filter, but I am almost positive it is an OEM Motorcraft filter.

It does go away in a few seconds after start-up. However, I am not running nor have I ever run a cheap oil filter. The oil filter it has now has maybe 250 miles on it, and it's making the noise, so I cannot attest it to that. OP: Sorry for jacking your thread, but hopefully you're getting some...

In my case, I am running the Ford Motorcraft synthetic oil that came with the car from factory. Honestly, I cannot give you the oil weights because I do not remember them, but I am pretty confident that in my case, the oil weights are correct and is not the cause of this problem.

Wow. I just did a search for this issue and nothing turned up. So I came to start a thread, and low and behold: I find this topic just posted on the board. I am having the same problem. It started a few weeks ago, and I had the car taken to a shop to get checked out. The valve covers were...

Amen, brother. In my foxes back in the day, I had the nitrous on a button with a telephone-type cord that came from the left side of the dash. I would hold it in my left hand while gripping the steering wheel, and let go of the spray while I was shifting. If I didn't miss the gear, I'd hit...

The most obvious thing is, try bleeding the hydraulic clutch system. With that said, I've heard aftermarket clutches are garbage on these cars. The hydraulic clutch system doesn't pull the clutch off of the flywheel completely making it almost impossible to get it into gear. I've heard that...

I am more than capable, but I'd only be saving $300 and losing a weekend because I don't have a lift and very limited power tools. $300 in labor (this includes input and throughout bearings) to swap out a tranny, clutch, and flywheel? Not bad, IMO....and it's being done at a reputable shop, too.