Disappointing dyno run after cam install

[HAMBURGLER7]

The only mod I installed was FRPP M-6550-3V Performance cams. All other parts are stock, to include the springs as the cam is advertised as compatible with them. This was done alongside a timing set/phasers as the vehicle has ~150k miles. I attached the dyno sheets. Would love to hear what everyone thinks so I have a direction to start going in.

 

[86GT351]

So you are upset that a 150000 mile plus engine didn't perform well?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

It isn't a Dynojet so I wouldn't read much into the absolute numbers. It's the shape of the HP & TQ curves that tell the story. Peak TQ is exactly where it should be at 4300rpm, and the TQ is within 5% of its peak from 3700-5100rpm.

The problem is that peak HP comes in early at just 5200rpm and that's because the stock airbox/filter assembly is choking off airflow. A higher flowing CAI might only add another 5 peak hp but it'll flatten the HP curve all the way past 6krpm.

 

[HAMBURGLER7]

It isn't a Dynojet so I wouldn't read much into the absolute numbers. It's the shape of the HP & TQ curves that tell the story. Peak TQ is exactly where it should be at 4300rpm, and the TQ is within 5% of its peak from 3700-5100rpm.

The problem is that peak HP comes in early at just 5200rpm and that's because the stock airbox/filter assembly is choking off airflow. A higher flowing CAI might only add another 5 peak hp but it'll flatten the HP curve all the way past 6krpm.

Appreciate it. It's got the Shelby package as well so it does have an aftermarket CAI. I can't see myself buying the recommended up sized ford manifold and throttle body.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Appreciate it. It's got the Shelby package as well so it does have an aftermarket CAI. I can't see myself buying the recommended up sized ford manifold and throttle body.

That would be unnecessary. You could delete the charge motion delete plates on your existing manifold, though you'd need a new tune for it.
Now that I know your car is a Shelby GT with Ford's branding of the Steeda CAI, I suspect the real reason why the HP curve drops off above 5200rpm is likely to be that the throttle body is tuned to begin to close slightly as you near the rev limiter. The tune can be adjusted so that the commanded throttle input remains at 100% when your gas pedal is mashed to the floor.
One more mod I'd highly recommend that doesn't need a tune is a Steeda underdrive pulley kit for an easy 8-10hp gain.
If you want to get a truer representation of how much rwhp your car's actually putting down, run it down the 1/4 mile and record the trap speed. I've developed 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile calculators that come very close. A stock 2007 Shelby GT should do something like 13.6 @ 104.

https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/2007-ford-shelby-gt/

1/8 Method

1/4 Method

If you input a race weight of 3700lb (3536lb plus ~165lb driver) and 104.1mph, you get 277rwhp. That's pretty much bang on the money.

 

[Redfire_Jimi]

So you are upset that a 150000 mile plus engine didn't perform well?

Just wondering.
What would you recommend to do with a s197 engine with 150K miles?
option 1) New block?
option 2) rebuild?
option 3) junk the whole car?

 

[GriffX]

Just wondering.
What would you recommend to do with a s197 engine with 150K miles?
option 1) New block?
option 2) rebuild?
option 3) junk the whole car?

4) record some sensors

At my supercharged Mercedes with 110k miles, the MAF is not able to measure the high air volumes anymore and is going into saturation above 5300 rpm. Reads 170 g/s and a new one should measure up to 185 g/s. Above 5300 the AFR gets lean and I lose HP.
I would record some engine parameters to know if everything works.

 

[07 Boss]

And in reality one should get cams as one of their last mods. See, you buy cams to tie everything you've done into a cohesive package. Exhaust, rear end gears, valve train and such all should be calculated into what cams to get. Putting a set of cams in without supporting mods will see modest to no real gains. I think maybe your expectations were too high.

At 150K miles your motor is probably pretty tired. I know mine is. Before we go throwing parts at it I would come up with a comprehensive plan on what you want and how to go about moving forward. Have you checked out the motor as far as compression and leakdown? This will go a long way in determining the direction you need to go in.

 

[HAMBURGLER7]

And in reality one should get cams as one of their last mods. See, you buy cams to tie everything you've done into a cohesive package. Exhaust, rear end gears, valve train and such all should be calculated into what cams to get. Putting a set of cams in without supporting mods will see modest to no real gains. I think maybe your expectations were too high.

At 150K miles your motor is probably pretty tired. I know mine is. Before we go throwing parts at it I would come up with a comprehensive plan on what you want and how to go about moving forward. Have you checked out the motor as far as compression and leakdown? This will go a long way in determining the direction you need to go in.

I was mistaken. Wife's car has 107k. Her other car is at 150. I did a compression test today, all of the cylinders are in line with one another at or ~1-2 off of 210 psi. Haven't gotten to a leak down test yet.

 

[ShelbySteve]

I’m at 330 whp with Bolt on’s and frpp cams. Long tubes and as mentioned UD pulleys will help it as well.