Whats needed for a bullet proof engine?

[LAK3RS]

I was just a little curious what all is needed engine wise for a bullet proof engine. I hear that our rods are crappy as hell, other than that I know nothing.

I'm actually getting a little anxious now, and am wanting more and more and more and more power!!! So nitrous might be in my near future. I just want to make sure the block, rods, crank, pistons, etc will hold up, so what do I need to look into for these parts. I hear the stock block is actually suppose to be pretty damn bad ass, and hold up to quite a bit of power. Any help, or suggestions in the direction to go would be very helpful.

Thanks,

- Justin

 

[KIMMER]

From what I was told, pull the engine, turn it over and put new rods in it. Then it is good till 650rwhp. Over that and you're looking at crank and pistons too I would imagine. I can't see needing more than 650 at the wheels on the street though.

 

[me-gone]

Have Larry build you a motor.

 

[Larry_H]

Waht youa re hearing is correct...the rods are the first weak point. No one has burnt a piston yet because the rods have broken and slung the piston out of the way.

So , to make these motors bulletproof, a forged steel crank, a good set of forged or billet rods, a quality set of forged pistons. Now with that you are going to need rings and bearings, a new rear seal, a pan gasket and a set of head gaskets. If you do this all while your motor is fairly new, then a quick hone of the cylinders with torque plates installed is all you'll need and it can be put back together. Now you're good for 800 - 1,000 HP. You won't get there without doing something a little more creative with the heads, but at least you'll know you can't break the rods and go slinging them all over the track and make a big mess....

 

[cekim]

I was going to say kevlar, lexan and don't let Mark, Ron, or me anywhere near it, but Larry's answer is better...

Its all relative to what you intend to do with it...

 

[Larry_H]

I agree...without spending money, keeping Mark and Ron away from it is a smart move....They break stuff just by being in its presence....I think it would be OK for Mark to play wih your sidemarkers lights, but even Ron has broken those!!!!

 

[silverGTvert]

I think Ron and Mark break things when they at look at it.

 

[LAK3RS]

Thanks for all the replies guys!!! I appreciate it a lot. I'm just real anal about throwing on some nitrous and something happening to it, I just want it to be able to hold up to around 500+ AND NOT WORRY ABOUT ANYTHING!!!

So all in all, if I replace the rods I might as well do everything else. So what brands and parts should I look into exactly? Larry, could you possibly throw me a list to look into some stuff man.

- Justin

 

[cekim]

Thanks for all the replies guys!!! I appreciate it a lot. I'm just real anal about throwing on some nitrous and something happening to it, I just want it to be able to hold up to around 500+ AND NOT WORRY ABOUT ANYTHING!!!

500 with nitrous - you will still need to worry... specifically your driveline - that much nitrous comes with a big drive-line shock and 500 is pushing it with the stock auto from what I understand...

 

[LAK3RS]

500 with nitrous - you will still need to worry... specifically your driveline - that much nitrous comes with a big drive-line shock and 500 is pushing it with the stock auto from what I understand...

Na, I'm just gonna throw on a 100-125 shot and just want to make sure my engine will hold up. You think I'ma need to worry about the Tranny at that level? What should I look into on that as well. Oooo this is gonna be a fun project, though it's gonna be a while till I get to it.....

 

[cekim]

Na, I'm just gonna throw on a 100-125 shot and just want to make sure my engine will hold up. You think I'ma need to worry about the Tranny at that level? What should I look into on that as well. Oooo this is gonna be a fun project, though it's gonna be a while till I get to it.....

Seems low to worry about the trans - but the auto guys can answer that one better than I can - last I heard there were some failures down the road with power adder cars - but at that level they were holding up well...

I would also think at the 100-125 level you should be fine for the rear-end... It was the 500 that caught my eye - I thought MikeM defanged a ring gear and bent an axle tube with less than that?

Torque converters are really nice for absorbing drive-line shock, but nitrous comes with plenty of it...

 

[LAK3RS]

Well, before I even think of doing anymore power wise...well I am actually, but any ways, I'ma finish up the suspension and get that outta the way. I'm just gonna start doing my research on this matter first and learn more about it to see what all I need to know. I appreciate everyone's help..

 

[ZmanM3]

Well, before I even think of doing anymore power wise...well I am actually, but any ways, I'ma finish up the suspension and get that outta the way. I'm just gonna start doing my research on this matter first and learn more about it to see what all I need to know. I appreciate everyone's help..

Building up the suspension first is an excellent idea. If your going to pull the engine anyways to replace the rods, I would deffently consider replacing the crank, pistons and everything else that Larry mentioned as well because you would be paying to do tear the engine down 2 times if you don't do it all at the same time and you want to changed the pistions and crank down the road. I would also consider heads at this time too as you will already have the engine out and doing it all at once will be much cheaper then doing it a piece at a time.

 

[Larry_H]

Justin, You have a PM with lots of questions to answer before I can begin to help you

 

[LAK3RS]

I replied to all of them Larry. Thanks bro.

- Justin