If you depinned and reconfigured your headlight connector (C1041) to initiate the high beam circuit with the low beam signal (light green wire), and you have Bixenon HIDs, you will get relay chatter because ford sent a pulsed signal from the computer for low beams to increase bulb life. This will surely destroy the relay in short order. You must wire in a capacitor. The part number at radio shack for the 4700 microfarad 35v capacitor is 2721022. I believe my source meant 470 microfarad, as there is a 1.2 second delay before the capacitor is drained to the point the relay lets go, which means you get high beams for 1.2 seconds after you turned them off. The arrow on the capacitor shows the direction of power flow, from + to -, so arrow points to ground wire. I recommend wiring the capacitor on the HID wiring, as to avoid booger'n up your stock headlight connector.
EDIT: the 470 is the one you want. see post #4 for a photo. eliminated the 1.2 wait for hi beams to come down
If they don't come on when you are just done installing them, plug the vehicle connector in upside down (it plugs in both ways on both kits, and it only works one way) to the HID kit.
If they still don't come on, or one fails to fire, remember it takes 15000v to jump, but only 80v to hold (don't quote me on the numbers but you get the point) so when you find the single wire black connector is the problem (pin is loose in the connector and lost connection), don't wiggle it and expect the headlight to magically come on, you have to turn them off, and then back on.
Retro-solutions.com is apparently the way to go for your H13 driving lamp and your H10 (9145 is the same bulb) foglights (on a GT) and if you type mustang in the coupon area during the order process you save something like 10%. The guy seems reasonable; was willing to send me a new relay before i googled the relay out of the equation's solution.
10000k is about considerably blue, and seems to be the limit on cops in my area. Any higher and i think they would stop me. If you don't want the attention, 5600k is pure white, and has about a 400 lumens higher rating than the 2830 lumen rating of the 10000k. I went with all 10000k up front. He (Todd Strong, retro-solutions.com) said that the 2 different bulbs i bought from him (fog, hi/lo) were from two different manufacturers so that explains the slight color difference, but that after 50 hours, if they hadn't levelled out, he'd replace them under warranty. i think i'll leave it alone cause it's only slight, and the guy has been helpful.
Photos:
my car with high beams and foglights on, with 55w 10000k HIDs from retro-solutions.com
the capacitor wired in and taped up (man that thing is huge! looks like a D battery right? i think you need 470 microfarad)
the connector that likes to back out
the connector that can be plugged in backwards
the ground that you DO use, as the other two in the picture will cause irratic HID operation when things like the cooling fan cut on, etc..
EDIT: the 470 is the one you want. see post #4 for a photo. eliminated the 1.2 wait for hi beams to come down
If they don't come on when you are just done installing them, plug the vehicle connector in upside down (it plugs in both ways on both kits, and it only works one way) to the HID kit.
If they still don't come on, or one fails to fire, remember it takes 15000v to jump, but only 80v to hold (don't quote me on the numbers but you get the point) so when you find the single wire black connector is the problem (pin is loose in the connector and lost connection), don't wiggle it and expect the headlight to magically come on, you have to turn them off, and then back on.
Retro-solutions.com is apparently the way to go for your H13 driving lamp and your H10 (9145 is the same bulb) foglights (on a GT) and if you type mustang in the coupon area during the order process you save something like 10%. The guy seems reasonable; was willing to send me a new relay before i googled the relay out of the equation's solution.
10000k is about considerably blue, and seems to be the limit on cops in my area. Any higher and i think they would stop me. If you don't want the attention, 5600k is pure white, and has about a 400 lumens higher rating than the 2830 lumen rating of the 10000k. I went with all 10000k up front. He (Todd Strong, retro-solutions.com) said that the 2 different bulbs i bought from him (fog, hi/lo) were from two different manufacturers so that explains the slight color difference, but that after 50 hours, if they hadn't levelled out, he'd replace them under warranty. i think i'll leave it alone cause it's only slight, and the guy has been helpful.
Photos:
my car with high beams and foglights on, with 55w 10000k HIDs from retro-solutions.com
the capacitor wired in and taped up (man that thing is huge! looks like a D battery right? i think you need 470 microfarad)
the connector that likes to back out
the connector that can be plugged in backwards
the ground that you DO use, as the other two in the picture will cause irratic HID operation when things like the cooling fan cut on, etc..
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