4.6L 3V Build

US-1 said:

Some things just don't need a torque wrench.

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Yeah I know but here's the deal and I know this is way off topic. I am the Service Manager at the Main Store at one of the largest Caterpillar Dealers in North America - Boozshey (Bruce) has been to our facililty. We require all of our technicians that build components (engines, transmissions, pumps, etc.) to torque every bolt. Why you may ask. We don't want the decision left up to the technician to decide which are the really important bolts to torque. Before you know it very few bolts will be torqued and you have no quality control. Besides it takes no longer to grab a torque wrench than it does an open end wrench. Not torquing every bolt on this engine would make me a hypocrite!!

PS: if you are ever in Tampa FL drop by and I will give you a tour of our new 130,000 sq. ft. facility which has 34,000 sq ft. of climate controlled engine assembly bays including a 4,500 HP engine dyno!!

I took the same approach on my build: torquing every bolt on the engine, even though some didn't need it.
Nice progress!

I may be visiting that facility soon with this damn shortblock...

tmcolegr said:

Yeah I know but here's the deal and I know this is way off topic. I am the Service Manager at the Main Store at one of the largest Caterpillar Dealers in North America - Boozshey (Bruce) has been to our facililty. We require all of our technicians that build components (engines, transmissions, pumps, etc.) to torque every bolt. Why you may ask. We don't want the decision left up to the technician to decide which are the really important bolts to torque. Before you know it very few bolts will be torqued and you have no quality control. Besides it takes no longer to grab a torque wrench than it does an open end wrench. Not torquing every bolt on this engine would make me a hypocrite!!

PS: if you are ever in Tampa FL drop by and I will give you a tour of our new 130,000 sq. ft. facility which has 34,000 sq ft. of climate controlled engine assembly bays including a 4,500 HP engine dyno!!

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WTH.....this slipped by your QC check!!!



Just messin with you,doing a great job!!

Is that ARP Crank bolt re-usable?

Boozshey said:

Is that ARP Crank bolt re-usable?

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Yes, but be sure to read post# 294

Looking good.

now when this build is done, will you put this motor on that 4.5k engine dyno?

dagamore said:

now when this build is done, will you put this motor on that 4.5k engine dyno?

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Unfortunately no

tmcolegr said:

Unfortunately no

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Will it have enough torque to move those rollers? ;-)

tmcolegr said:

Yeah I know but here's the deal and I know this is way off topic. I am the Service Manager at the Main Store at one of the largest Caterpillar Dealers in North America - Boozshey (Bruce) has been to our facililty. We require all of our technicians that build components (engines, transmissions, pumps, etc.) to torque every bolt. Why you may ask. We don't want the decision left up to the technician to decide which are the really important bolts to torque. Before you know it very few bolts will be torqued and you have no quality control. Besides it takes no longer to grab a torque wrench than it does an open end wrench. Not torquing every bolt on this engine would make me a hypocrite!!

PS: if you are ever in Tampa FL drop by and I will give you a tour of our new 130,000 sq. ft. facility which has 34,000 sq ft. of climate controlled engine assembly bays including a 4,500 HP engine dyno!!

Click to expand...

I didn't realize you were a service manager, if I ever make it to Florida, I would love to come check out the facility. The build is looking good, I have to say that you are doing one hell of a job.

white05gt said:

if I ever make it to Florida, I would love to come check out the facility.

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I would be glad to give you the tour

US-1 said:

Any of you who are NOT using this thread as a database for part numbers should sell your car and go buy a Scion.

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Wife is making a cake with my daughter, so that is allowing me to make detailed notes on this build.

I haven't posted any progress in over a week because I ran into a couple of issues (not problems) with the ATI Super Damper (Part# 918039) that I was not aware of until now. Let me explain. The ATI Super Damper claims to use the OEM length retaining bolt. This may be true with the OEM crankshaft but not with the Kellogg stroker crankshaft I'm using. When using the ATI Super Damper with a Kellogg crankshaft a longer bolt must be used. I spoke to JDM who supplied me with the rotating group about this issue and they were already aware of this and had a solution. Matt (JDM's engine builder) recommended using an ARP 206-1001 bolt which is slightly longer than the OEM bolt or the ARP OEM replacement bolt. The F5RZ-6A340-B OEM bolt is on the left, The ARP 156-2501 OEM replacement bolt is in the center and the ARP 206-1001 bolt is on the right. You'll notice the ARP 206-1001, besides having a longer under head length, also has a 19mm 12 pt head. The head of the bolt is also slightly longer which is great because it gives you slightly more material for the socket to contact when turning over then engine. The 206-1001 measures M12 x 1.5 x 53mm
Now that I have resolved that issue, I proceeded with the installation of the ATI Super Damper. This damper requires a .031" washer (part# 954078 which is included with the damper) to be installed prior to installing the damper hub.

The hub is now pressed (not driven) onto the snout of the crankshaft. Note: ATI recommends using anti-seize on the snout of the crankshaft and ID of the bore of the hub to prevent galling. I used Motorcraft XL-2 Nickel Anti-seize and Permatex 82180 Ultra Black sealant in the key way.

ARP 206-1001 bolt with the OEM washer was torqued to 105 ft. lbs. as per JDM's recommendation. If you look closely you'll see I sparingly used Permatex 82180 Ultra Black sealant under the head of the bolt and washer to prevent any oil seepage.

Prior to installing the damper on the hub be prepared to purchase a T40 Torx Plus socket (shown on the right). A T40 Torx socket (shown on the left) is NOT the correct size and will damage the countersunk fasteners. Here's the difference between the 2 sockets

PS: you do not have to purchase a $30 socket from Snap On (Part# FTX40TPE) as I did. After doing a bit of research I discovered there is a much more economical and smarter way to purchase this tool. ATI sells just the T40 Torx Plus bit, (part# 918997) which fits in a 6 point socket, for less than $5 and it can be purchased through Jegs, Summit Racing, etc. or directly from ATI.

With the correct socket or bit the damper can be installed on the hub using Locktite 242 (Blue - medium strength) as per ATI's recommendation.

The larger 12 pt. bolts are torqued to 30 ft. lbs. while the countersunk bolts are torqued to 16 ft. lbs.

None of these issues are difficult to overcome but if you need this longer 206-1001 bolt, be prepared to wait as only ARP had this bolt in stock. This is most likely due to the intended application of this bolt: 1.6L BMW Mini Cooper camshaft sprocket bolt

Now the remaining accessories can be installed on the front cover

LH 90mm OEM smooth metal non-guided idler pulley (Part# 1L2Z-8678-AB or Gates 38001) - retaining bolt torqued to 18 ft. lbs. I am using this pulley in place of the Saleen 76mm plastic guided idler pulley.

Thump_rrr Tensioner with 76mm pulley. Bolts torqued to 18 ft. lbs.

RH idler pulley size has been increased to 100mm to improve belt wrap on the 2.75" Saleen S/C pulley. Installing a 100mm idler pulley at this location DOES require machine work to the front cover. Retaining bolt torqued to 18 ft. lbs.

All accessories are now installed on the front of the engine

Kooks Headers & Mounts installed:
RH header is installed using OEM gaskets and Stage 8 (Part# 8906M) hardware. Bolts are coated with Motorcraft XL-2 Nickel Anti-seize and torqued to 18 ft. lbs.

LH header installed

RH mount installed - bolts torqued to 41 ft. lbs.

LH mount installed

Oil level gauge & tube installed. Retaining bolt torqued to 89 in. lbs.
Note: Ford does not sell the o-ring for the tube separately.

A fresh set of Autolite HT0 spark plugs (gapped to .030") have been installed - torqued to 25 ft. lbs. with Motorcraft XL-2 Nickel Anti-seize applied to the ground shield (Not the ground strap).

60 lb. Sieman Deka injectors have been resealed/installed using OEM seals part# FOPZ-9229-A (Motorcraft part# CM-4717). Seals are package qty of 10 so you need 2 packages

Prior to this build the GT 500 throttle body was mounted with a spacer. While this worked, it pushed the C&L Racer intake tube close to the coolant degas tank and power steering reservoir

In an effort to clean up the engine bay, the Saleen S/C lid was removed and ported to allow the GT 500 throttle body to be bolted directly to the lid without the spacer

Engine is ready to be removed from the engine stand to complete the assembly process:

• Rear crankshaft seal & slinger
• Modified flex plate w/ARP hardware

Installing rear seal

Rear Seal Installed

Installing rear slinger

Rear slinger installed

Engine to transmission spacer plate installed

Modified M-6375-H46 FRPP flex plate will be installed with 254-2901 ARP bolts

Flex plate bolts are lube w/ARP moly lube and torqued to 49 ft. lbs.