4.6L 3V Build

tmcolegr

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Engine assembly is complete - ready to install
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tmcolegr

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Tomorrow I will remove the TCI Street Fighter torque converter.....
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Replace the F77Z-7A248-AA torque converter seal and install a 2,600 RPM stall PI multi-disc converter w/TCI 579600 hardened input shaft
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PS: I have a special spot picked out in the back yard where I'm going to plant the TCI torque converter so that every day my dog can go out and piss on it!!
 
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TexStang

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Anyone care to explain what a rear slinger is? I've heard it before but don't know what purpose it serves. Is there a front one also? I have no clue.

Also, TMC, how are you hosting your pictures? Photobucket? I have this thread saved under subscribed threads, but I'm thinking about saving all the pictures for future reference, since over time pictures disappear if they are on photobucket either through deletion or links changing.
 

TexStang

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Curious, what are you running in your car? I know somewhere around 3500 (I think thats what I read). What were you getting it to stall to on the turbo setup?
Is there anyway to determine roughly what a torque convertor will actually stall too? I know most places like Circle D get quite a bit of info on your setup when stalling/restalling one. I guess I'm asking how you know what it will stall to on supercharged car vs. a turbo car. vs a nitrous car, etc.

edit, sorry TMC, offtopic somewhat, just trying to learn. Build is looking great!
 
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US-1

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Curious, what are you running in your car? I know somewhere around 3500 (I think thats what I read). What were you getting it to stall to on the turbo setup?
Is there anyway to determine roughly what a torque convertor will actually stall too? I know most places like Circle D get quite a bit of info on your setup when stalling/restalling one. I guess I'm asking how you know what it will stall to on supercharged car vs. a turbo car. vs a nitrous car, etc.

edit, sorry TMC, offtopic somewhat, just trying to learn. Build is looking great!

Precision Industries. When originally ordered (not by me) it was supposed to be 3200 rpm. With the tune we had in the car it wouldn't go past 2500 rpm. Turbos didn't spool until 2900 which came up around 80 feet from the starting line. With a more aggressive tune and reworking the converter I feel that 3000-3300 rpm would have been great with this setup. The 10.88/128mph I ran would have been around a 10.65/130 if I could have left at 3000-3200 rpm (would have been 4-5 psi of boost).

As far as "what it will stall to" on a certain combination.....you need to give the converter people ALL the information on your car. ALL of it. Then you can get a converter that will be very close to what you need.....if not dead on.
 

TexStang

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So is it some kind of voodoo? lol. I know they build converters differently based on application (nitrous, turbo, etc.) but what is it about the powerplant that changes it? I'm guessing it has to be tighter on nitrous cars, looser, on turbo cars, and somewhere in the middle for supercharged cars?
 

US-1

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Bore size, stroke, rod length, compression, camshaft duration, induction system, cylinder head flow, valve size, runner length, throttle body/carburetor size..............shall I go on?
 

TexStang

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Hahaha, no, its over my head for sure. Just trying to learn a little, thanks.

Sorry tmc for being offtopic
 

tmcolegr

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The input shaft has different length splines. The short splines go into the transmission when installing the input shaft
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New front pump seal and TCI hardened input shaft installed
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PI torque converter test fitted to the modified FRPP flex plate and Kellogg crankshaft. Be sure to remove the paint from the pilot on the torque converter as it will cause the torque converter to bind in the crankshaft pilot bore when installing the engine
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Filling the torque converter with 3.5 pints of Mercon V fluid. Any more than that just runs out when you try to install the torque converter
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Torque converter has been fully seated. This can be checked with a straight edge. Torque converter pilot should be flush with the transmission case mounting flange when the converter is properly located
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Be sure to clean off the paint from (4) mounting pads of the torque converter
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I need to spend a couple of hours today prepping the engine compartment for installation of the engine. Planning on installing the engine over the 3 day weekend next week.
 
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tmcolegr

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Just a few last minute details. Installed a new 180* OEM thermostat (Part# 2C5Z-8575-AA). Requires (1) F1VY-8255-AA seal (O-ring).
 

one eyed willy

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we shall see...

i got faith in ya! i do know that feeling though.....all these things run through your head.....did i tighten that bolt or this bolt,lol,did i tighten it enough...or too much.....

you should join our club www.stangforce.com , we just had a free dyno day yesterday at brothers performance in deland, i think we are doing another one in november. it would be nice to see you around, we get together about once a month or so!!
 
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NastyStang113

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We're going to get a video on first start up right!? :beerdrink:

i got faith in ya! i do know that feeling though.....all these things run through your head.....did i tighten that bolt or this bolt,lol,did i tighten it enough...or too much.....

you should join our club www.stangforce.com , we just had a free dyno day yesterday at brothers performance in deland, i think we are doing another one in november. it would be nice to see you around, we get together about once a month or so!!

So you rode over there, too? Damn seems like everyone went out there. I live just around the corner! What did your car make?
 
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