Fays or Steeda watts link?

Cone Sweeper · Mar 2, 2010

More or less, looking to see the pro's and con's people have had with each setup.. i've done some searching through the site and hear little bits hear and there... and would like to hear more then " noise " issues.. thanks guys!

Vapour Trails · Mar 2, 2010

Give Sam Strano a call.

kevinatfms · Mar 2, 2010

^^^hahaha

thats the best info you can get

09AlloyGT · Mar 3, 2010

Sam Strano is a great way to learn, dont even have to call...just search him and read....You prolly already know this...

From reading on here before I think the Fays is heavier than the Steeda, but also cheaper...but it is non rotational mass as well, so not so detrimental....these are things i am contemplate right now too....which watts to go with.....

If you get into contact with him let us know what he says.

JeremyH · Mar 3, 2010

I really like my techco watts link. Not sure i f you can still buy them. The solid billet aluminum arms, double shear mounts (improvement over saleen single shear design) and diff cover are all top notch.

Had a lakewood watts before and it was complete garbage, hardware rusted to shit in a hurry the center pivot warped and the axle mount welds broke lol.

ArizonaGT · Mar 3, 2010

Avoid any of the type using a bolt going into the diff cover, seen those bolts shear off more than once on the race track (road course).

EagleStroker · Mar 3, 2010

ArizonaGT said:
Avoid any of the type using a bolt going into the diff cover, seen those bolts shear off more than once on the race track (road course).

Wasn't that determined in most cases to be the use of an improper bolt in the given scenario? I've been back and forth on this question (which is "better"). From what I understand it's fairly common for the Fays to allow the axle to somewhat shift even when the clamps are tight. Made sense because of the design, but I'm curious as to how much of that is just brand bashing.

ArizonaGT · Mar 3, 2010

EagleStroker said:
Wasn't that determined in most cases to be the use of an improper bolt in the given scenario? I've been back and forth on this question (which is "better"). From what I understand it's fairly common for the Fays to allow the axle to somewhat shift even when the clamps are tight. Made sense because of the design, but I'm curious as to how much of that is just brand bashing.

The bolt was definitely improper, as the bolt threads were supporting the shear load...needs to be a rod/tube where this load occurs. Due to construction and, however, this isn't possible--so I'd steer clear of any of the "bolt/diff" type. The type we saw failure on was Saleen, btw.

I'd rather have the axle shift slightly w/ the Fays than put the car on the trailer because of a broken bolt.

Sam Strano · Mar 3, 2010

A few items of importance:

1. I sell both Fays2 and Steeda. Most places don't, and would have a bias toward one of the other

2. I don't sell the more basic type Watts link like a Techco (not that they are around anymore), etc. because I think it's silly to not have the ability to get more tuning options via the roll center height adjustment. And it's way more than a Fays2 for that lack of ability.

3. Functionally the Steeda and Fays2 work the same way, both are very good units but each has its pro's and con's.

Fays2 Pro:
-Available in Red or Black
-Cost
-Rod-ends for maximum strength

Fays2 Con:
-Rod-ends can make some noise
-a bit more involved to get the arms leveled (not hard, just takes more time).

Steeda Pro:
-A few pounds lighter (only a very few)
-A bit easier to get setup (maybe saves an hour)
-Quieter as it uses urethane bushings

Steeda Con:
-More costly
-Urethane bushings allows a bit more lateral movement vs. rod-ends
-no choice of color

Let me add that ALL Watts links, in theory, have a bit of a lateral move at the extremes of the axle's movement. The reason it's "in theory"? Simple. The rear axle of an S197 can't move that far for it to be an issue. I know, I've cycled my rear suspension into the bumpstops and to full droop with the shocks on, and if the arms are setup correctly it's got true up and down movement.

09AlloyGT · Mar 6, 2010

What was the outcome of your decision?

luillo · Apr 14, 2010

Sam Strano said:
A few items of importance:

1. I sell both Fays2 and Steeda. Most places don't, and would have a bias toward one of the other

2. I don't sell the more basic type Watts link like a Techco (not that they are around anymore), etc. because I think it's silly to not have the ability to get more tuning options via the roll center height adjustment. And it's way more than a Fays2 for that lack of ability.

3. Functionally the Steeda and Fays2 work the same way, both are very good units but each has its pro's and con's.

Fays2 Pro:
-Available in Red or Black
-Cost
-Rod-ends for maximum strength

Fays2 Con:
-Rod-ends can make some noise
-a bit more involved to get the arms leveled (not hard, just takes more time).

Steeda Pro:
-A few pounds lighter (only a very few)
-A bit easier to get setup (maybe saves an hour)
-Quieter as it uses urethane bushings

Steeda Con:
-More costly
-Urethane bushings allows a bit more lateral movement vs. rod-ends
-no choice of color

Let me add that ALL Watts links, in theory, have a bit of a lateral move at the extremes of the axle's movement. The reason it's "in theory"? Simple. The rear axle of an S197 can't move that far for it to be an issue. I know, I've cycled my rear suspension into the bumpstops and to full droop with the shocks on, and if the arms are setup correctly it's got true up and down movement.

Do you recommend FAYS2 for drag over steeda???

I just like the FAYS2 over steeda and i dont care about road noise.

Sam Strano · Apr 15, 2010

luillo said:
Do you recommend FAYS2 for drag over steeda???

I just like the FAYS2 over steeda and i dont care about road noise.

They serve the same function in the same way. IF you don't care about noise the Fays2 is much more cost effective.

SUHleen · Sep 19, 2010

Sorry to bring back an older topic, but how much noise are we talking about with the Fays2? Is it enough noise to hear over a loud ass exhaust? I'm thinking about picking up the Fays2 unit, Jegs sells them and they are local

Cobra SS · Sep 19, 2010

SUHleen said:
Sorry to bring back an older topic, but how much noise are we talking about with the Fays2? Is it enough noise to hear over a loud ass exhaust? I'm thinking about picking up the Fays2 unit, Jegs sells them and they are local

at times you will here it

Germeezy3 · Sep 19, 2010

How do they compare to the Griggs Watt Link?

Sam Strano · Sep 20, 2010

Lightblade said:
I really like my techco watts link. Not sure i f you can still buy them. The solid billet aluminum arms, double shear mounts (improvement over saleen single shear design) and diff cover are all top notch.

Had a lakewood watts before and it was complete garbage, hardware rusted to shit in a hurry the center pivot warped and the axle mount welds broke lol.

Fair enough, but a few issues...

1. I think they are out of business
2. No adjustable roll-center height like the Fays2 or Steeda design
3. Lakewood while appearing simliar to Fays2 or Steeda is a flimsy light p.o.s. and can't be used for comparison

I figure it this way, if you are going to spend upward of $1k on a Watts link (Techco, Steeda) or $650 (Fays2) then why wouldn't you want one that offers you the most tuning flexibility? Frankly I just think the others are hugely overpriced, and can tell you without doubt the shearing bolts and stuff have never happened on a Fays2.

I carry both the Steeda and the Fays2. The Steeda is the more quiet of the two being it uses urethane bushings on the arms vs. the Fays that uses Rod-ends (good ones, but rod-ends can make a little noise). Some report it's stone quiet for them, others do not.

Philostang · Sep 30, 2010

Sam, any word on if the Steeda unit will work with aftermarket sway bars? I know you verified fitment with the Fays unit and your own bars, but have you tried them out with the Steeda Watts link?

Sam Strano · Sep 30, 2010

If you look at a Steeda unit and a Fays2 unit you'll see they are very much the same in terms of the frame and where they mount to the body. The Fays2 is a little bigger in that it uses square tubing vs round tube in the Steeda. I see nothing that will keep the my bar from working with the Steeda unit. No I have not tried those two together personally, but I know that others have Steeda Watts links with some other bars that are tight with the Fays2 (but still work) and no issues.

Liftedbronco · Sep 30, 2010

few points and questions sam.
1. does the fays allow you to level the bars like the steeda does? Looks like it doesnt. Part b. If the fays cant be leveled (bars made horizontal is what I mean), I understand how this can cause a problem at the extremes of travel....but will you ever even get to that point?
2. In case anyone hasnt seen my posts over on the steeda section...well lets just say their powdercoating is sub par. Dont know if the fays is any better. But i would say it would be smart to consider the cost of having anything steeda made stripped and re-coated locally.

Sam Strano · Sep 30, 2010

Liftedbronco said:
few points and questions sam.
1. does the fays allow you to level the bars like the steeda does? Looks like it doesnt. Part b. If the fays cant be leveled (bars made horizontal is what I mean), I understand how this can cause a problem at the extremes of travel....but will you ever even get to that point?
2. In case anyone hasnt seen my posts over on the steeda section...well lets just say their powdercoating is sub par. Dont know if the fays is any better. But i would say it would be smart to consider the cost of having anything steeda made stripped and re-coated locally.

Answer 1A. Yes you can level the bars that's all a matter of rotating the axle clamps where you need them. One caveat to that. If you run a stock cat-back (OEM over axle pipes), the way those are bent can interfere if you move that left side axle clamp up as high as you'd want to level the arms in the uppermost adjustment hole. Aftermarket pipes don't have the convoluted bends the Ford pipes do and that makes plenty of room.

Answer 1B. The rear axle doesn't have that much range of motion to cause a problem. If you leveled the arms in say the full high position and then wanted to run all the way down, it might be wise to re-level. But since we don't have feet worth of travel it's not any big deal if you are moving a little. The standard setup is to set it up in the middle giving you good range up and down without having to move the arms.

Answer 2. I've never had any issue with Fays2 Powdercoat. It's thick and tough, I've never seen it chip without some serious help.

Fays or Steeda watts link?

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