Do you guys have thoughts about that, except very expensive:
https://www.fordgt500.com/threads/new-underbody-strakes-aero-from-steeda-gt500-s550-compatible.208233/
Sorry I'm German, I try my best in English ;)
If your budget allows to buy a fully adjustable coil-over, this would be the best way to build a cornering car. I have combined compression/rebound adjustment and wish to have it independent.
I haven't found the dimension of the GT350 part. The needed size is roughly 80x80 cm. The GT350 part is bolted to the bumper on one side and to a bracket to the underbody between the sway bar and the differential.
On our cars we must attach a bracket to the spare tire panel.
I was not able to...
Hello
The GT350 has a undertray plate from the axle to the bumper and covers the carbon canister backpack. I think it would be a nice aerodynamic optimization for the S197, too.
Cheers
GT350 with aftermarket strakes:
These color codes on the OEM springs address the car weight and the front/rear weight distribution with the different variants, with coil overs you can do it left/right too.
I installed the MGW shifter which I really like, but I don't have a comparison with other brands.
My 07 doesn't have an assist spring, so cannot say anything.
Hi from Germany,
shifting problems 2->3 under hard acceleration is often a shifter problem, have you checked all the shifter bushings and connection rods?
Is it a Capri behind?
Just changed the outer tie rods and measured the tire distance on the lift before I started to take the tires off (steering wheel horizontal with water level, paint dot at the wheel tread to remember the measuring point), after work done I adjusted the distance to the same value again.
So, finally, first impression. The drone at 67 is gone, no noise so far, but must test it with higher speed also.
I got some NHV in my seat with medium load acceleration from low rpm, it's like some growl so not annoying (not yet).
I guess I can improve it further by changing the aluminum...
I really don't want the air of the 1990th back, but it's clean enough now. All this new regulations is only to torture you and make driving more and more expensive to steal your car. Sooo fed up with the Government.....
I found one great video how to change your springs on YT.
But, I have some remarks:
1. He forgot to change the rubber protection hose from the old to the new spring
2. Did he mention to rise the rear axle to the mark at the shock he made before when torquing the bolts?
3. Panhard bar...
If you remove the old bracket, alternatively to cut it through, there are 4 tiny tack welds at the top, which can be grind off very easy.
After my DIY rubber mod the movement of the shaft is less than 1/8". Will see next week.....
On my list too, but it looks like it is not only glue. Is it leather with thin foam on the back which decomposed and therefore
the sagging?
If true, if you don't remove all the foam particles, no glue will stick for long.
Take a look at your SJB if you see some signs of overload, like melted plastic. In the EU red blinkers are not allowed so the import companies connected all brake lights to the line of the 3rd brake light which leads to overload and a defect of the driver transistor in the SJB, but not...
I once had a R8 V10 620HP for a whole day on German Autobahn, came back to my 2007 Mustang GT and thought to myself, what a great car, no, not the Audi :happythumbs:
But, at least the ceramic brakes were extraordinary.
My car is still in winter storage, unbelievable bad weather here, I hope the home brew modification will work, I guess buying the part +shipping +tax will be around 400€. The bearing itself seems to be pretty tough. Car wizard had a Shelby with over 200k mi and bearing was good.
Looking...