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Show those list of steps. Maybe it’s different from what did to get the emissions ready on mine.

Can you hear the pump kick on when you turn the key to the ON position(engine off). Try cycling the key a few times before cracking the engine. If it starts, you may have an internal leak inside the fuel pump assembling.

Final Update****THE FIX! After much thought and searching of similar issues. I decided to dig a little deeper into the Evap system. Aside from Evap purge valve located under the hood on the driver side, P0443 can also be triggered by the VAPOR CANISTER VENT SOLENOID. This little trouble prick...

Also, I’ve replaced the Evap canister and gas cap.

Update: unsure of what adjustments were made on stock tune I went ahead and reinstalled the 91 Bren tune and did a drive cycle. Couple concerns I noticed. 1) Evap triggered a pending code, then went ready shortly after. 2) O2’s went ready, then triggers a pending code. Catalyst still not ready...

Probably, I bought it used.

I’m working on that now. 60miles driven since returning to stock. Still shows not ready. You have the drive cycle steps to cover?

I’m curious if anyone who runs stock can only pull data from front 2 sensors and those with a tune are able to pull data from all 4 O2 sensors? When I’m on stock tune the rear O2s says not supported. When I have my tune loaded I’m able to pull live data for all 4 sensors. 1st on this trend...

Returned to stock and my Blue driver scanner only supports front O2 sensors. Reads all 4 when Brenspeed tune is installed. Is this normal?

Smog testing is right around the corner. Had a CEL recently for Evap. Replaced the Evap cleared the code and all was well. Several months later another CEL. Scanned for codes and all 02 sensors were triggered. 12v to all sensors. Remaining 3 wires to O2’s ohms out to ground, telling me there’s...

If any of you with a 2005 GT was curious of the internals of that 3 layered cake called a fuse box here are some pics for you.

ohm those 2 wires from FPDM to PCM. You going to have to get creative and run a long enough wire extension from one end of the car to the other so your multimeter leads reach but it’s what you’re going to have to do to make sure you don’t have a break between those two connections. Aside from...

Check for proper grounding of the FPDM to frame (G400) on the schematic. Also check frame ground from battery. Make those surfaces are bright and shiny. Ohm out the wires/cable of both ground.

You seen the schematic?

Any luck?

Reset KAM

Forgot to mention turn A/C off before putting it in drive.

I just went through this issue myself. Here is the FIX. 1) If you have an SCT scanner go to special functions and reset KAM. Reload your tune, if your car is tuned. Otherwise ignore this step. 2) If you don’t have an SCT scanner. Unplug battery negative cable. Place a jumper wire between...

Try cleaning the MAF sensor or replace with an OEM part. Stick with common issues related to the codes involving both sides of the engine. Keeps us posted!

Op, any luck finding a fix yet?

Give this a try. Not sure how Key was affected though with a belt going out. Have you checked all other pulleys? Maybe the replacement pulley was bad. Any how try this reset for the PAT. Insert the key into the driver's side door lock. Turn the key once, but not all the way to unlock the door...

I had the same issue. Bolted a ground cable on the back of the alternator body to the ground strap on the firewall ledge behind the engine. Also installed a new positive cable from alternator to battery. I get 13.8-14.2v now. Before it was around 12.8-13.6v

Mine started at 14.2v then after it warmed up it started to drop near 13v. The high speed fan sounded weak and O2 sensors started popping up. I was most likely losing spark on demand why it triggered O2 codes.

I had same issue. It’s probably your alternator. Test at start up and after a bit of driving with all accessories on. Results should be between 13.8-14.1v+. Anything lower replace alternator.

Test the voltage after start up and after reaching normal running temp with all accessories on. Drive it around for a bit and test again. Your test results should read between 13.8-14.1+ the entire time. If not, your alternator is starting to go. A weak alternator can cause the issues you’re...