Clutches...Eany, Meany, Miney, Mo

[weather man]

As some of you know, my car is down at DB Performance with the stuff on my signature and a little more getting put on. The engine and tranny are dropped out and I have been pondering the wisdom of upgrading the clutch.

Read through some prior threads, but they are mostly horror stories on the clutch they chose sucking bad. Keep in mind I may go F/I in a year or so and if I upgrade needs to be able to handle 8-10 pounds of boost.

Choices are leave it stock or use some version of centerforce, ACT, Mcleod or spec.

Minimal drag strip, but I live in the country and my road is an engraved invitation to run it hard through 4th.

Let me know what you think and worked for you. Thanks

 

[FAST3V]

McLeod....hands down.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

^ This. I'm going with the Mcleod RXT.

 

[JeremyH]

I'd stay away from centerforce, and be careful which spec model you choose. The mcleod/act twins are great I have had both.

 

[klaw]

McLeod RXT with matching flywheel and new OEM slave.

The decision point for you though is whether there is a forged motor or trans swap in your future. The forged cranks have an 8 bolt pattern vs the stock GT 6 bolt so you would need to change the flywheel. The TR6060 trans has a 26 spline input shaft vs the 10 spline in the TR3650. The clutch disks would need to be swapped with the trans.

 

[Chiron]

Love my McLeod RXT.

 

[stkjock]

 

[white05gt]

Been going through the same, always heard great about Mcleod but lately hearing about the rattle issue has me concerned. I been thinking of a spec stage 3+ and aluminum flywheel to see how it does. I haven't read much about act in our 05+ mustangs.

 

[JeremyH]

I have the act twin and flywheel in my car now and used a shim on the slave, has been a great clutch! It's the same setup 03/04 cobras use.

 

[skwerl]

Why isn't anybody talking about Exedy? Are they really not that great? I heard a few people rave about the Exedy 500 and others are just 'meh'.

If I keep drag racing then I'll need to upgrade mine soon as well, so I'm subbing.

 

[Chiron]

Been going through the same, always heard great about Mcleod but lately hearing about the rattle issue has me concerned. I been thinking of a spec stage 3+ and aluminum flywheel to see how it does. I haven't read much about act in our 05+ mustangs.

I would think an aluminum flywheel wouldn't be the way to go if you want to avoid a rattle, but I could be wrong. For what it's worth, my clutch only occasionally rattles in one very, very tiny sweet spot. 4th gear, under load, 1,600-2,000. The rest of the time, it's quiet as can be.

 

[weather man]

I did ...mostly guys flaming stuff they bought and didn't like. When guys are happy they usually don't post. Easy big

I would think an aluminum flywheel wouldn't be the way to go if you want to avoid a rattle, but I could be wrong. For what it's worth, my clutch only occasionally rattles in one very, very tiny sweet spot. 4th gear, under load, 1,600-2,000. The rest of the time, it's quiet as can be.

Are you running the RST or RXT?

 

[Chiron]

Are you running the RST or RXT?

RXT, but I'm running a T56, for what that's worth. Lightened steel flywheel.

 

[weather man]

RXT, but I'm running a T56, for what that's worth. Lightened steel flywheel.

All good info!

 

[BruceH]

Stay away from Centerforce. I've had a dual friction CF that blew the slave within 1600 miles. I've had two McLeod RST clutches. The first was a 10 spline uses with the stock 3650. Second is in the car now. It's a 26 spline which was needed when I swapped a 6060 in. I really like the McLeod RST. I'm using a McLeod steel flywheel also. The "rattle" is a vibration in the floater plate. On both of my RST clutches it happened at 1700 rpm in 4th gear. Adjusting to keep it out of that rpm range is fairly easy.

 

[BlackSunshine]

Stay away from Centerforce. I've had a dual friction CF that blew the slave within 1600 miles. I've had two McLeod RST clutches. The first was a 10 spline uses with the stock 3650. Second is in the car now. It's a 26 spline which was needed when I swapped a 6060 in. I really like the McLeod RST. I'm using a McLeod steel flywheel also. The "rattle" is a vibration in the floater plate. On both of my RST clutches it happened at 1700 rpm in 4th gear. Adjusting to keep it out of that rpm range is fairly easy.

Finally someone brings up the RST. Everybody assumes RXT because its the highest holding McLeod Twin without realizing that they probably will never come close to the power needed to fry it. Most guys wont even stress an RST. If going McLeod, go RST, organic clutch material, much more street friendly and unless you are going 650+ HP/TQ, it will be more than enough. Stay away from ceramic material if you plan to DD the car.

 

[drive_55_not]

I'm with Jeremy on the ACT clutches,

I ran their organic disc and HD PP, which was rated for 600lbs torque for 17,000 fairly hard miles .. That clutch had 80+ passes on it and isn't down to the wear marks, I'd say under 'spirited' driving that rig would last 40,000 miles. I did put a .06" shim under the slave.

I swapped in a GForce geared transmission and reused the ACT PP with a new ACT 6-puck ceramic disc. That clutch disc wasn't as on/off as most people say a ceramic puck disc is, but it was pretty grabby. I wouldn't try driving in the snow with it. I cut my best 60' @1.585 with it and a set of MT ET Streets.

I had a new engine installed last week and went with a ACT twin disc and the ACT FW,, I've been driving it for a week and can say WOW, the pedal is much lighter than their single disc. The only thing I don't like about it is it disengages a lot closer to the floor than I'd gotten used to with the single.

So far I haven't had any rattling, clutch dragging, disengagement or other issues,

I also left the .06" slave shim in.



.

 

[weather man]

When I inquired at TPS they flat out say that a RST that has been drag raced (even once) will not be warrantied. I think that is a little strange since they rate the RST to 800HP. Can anyone shed any light on why Mcleod would take that stance. Even with 10 PSI F/I on my motor, I doubt I would be over 550 RWHP.

 

[weather man]

ACT has a great website

ACT does a great job presenting their clutch info. These 2 look like good to me. Obviously the twin disk is more money, but anyone running the single disk?

Disc : Street/Street
Torque: 850 (ft/.lbs) The T1S clutch kit features a Heavy Duty pressure plate and two street discs, providing a generous increase in torque capacity with very few tradeoffs. With its stock-like pedal effort and smooth engagement, it is suitable for every day street use. SFI certification and increased surface area, makes this clutch also durable enough for many race applications.
Disc : Street/Street
Torque: 850 (ft/.lbs)
The T1S clutch kit features a Heavy Duty pressure plate and two street discs, providing a generous increase in torque capacity with very few tradeoffs. With its stock-like pedal effort and smooth engagement, it is suitable for every day street use. SFI certification and increased surface area, makes this clutch also durable enough for many race applications.



770ft/ib


Heavy Duty Pressure Plate
Clamps load increase of 20% to 50%, Pedal feels stock to moderate, Many SFI Certified to insure safety


Spring Centered (6 Pad) Disc
Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street, Increased torque capacity and spline life, Very good durability and good spline life, Quiet operation, reduced driveline shock

 

[white05gt]

Finally someone brings up the RST. Everybody assumes RXT because its the highest holding McLeod Twin without realizing that they probably will never come close to the power needed to fry it. Most guys wont even stress an RST. If going McLeod, go RST, organic clutch material, much more street friendly and unless you are going 650+ HP/TQ, it will be more than enough. Stay away from ceramic material if you plan to DD the car.

Not sure why people run the RXT with the 10 spline 3650 since the transmission will break before the clutch gives out.