Cooling Fan Issues

[don_w]

I went ahead and ordered the fan from these guys at Go-Part.Com. Total cost was $119, incl tax and shipping. I'll let you all know later if that was a dumbshit thing to do. hahah

Well, so far so good. I just got an e-mail saying it was shipped via Fedex.

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

I'm curious as to why something was overheating. Wondering if it has to do with grounding out the relay when you flip the switch in the cabin. I wired mine based on Peter's recommendation to use the high-speed fan relay. Did you ever switch the connection?

If I am not mistaken, I believe they beefed this fan up for later models. The evidence of a different resistor for the low side is an example of that. The old style had a wrapped resistor; the new one has holes punched out in a metal frame surrounding the resistor--can you say resistor cooler!? They may have also used a bigger diameter wire for the motor windings (less resistance--> less heat).

An electrical motor is wound with varnished wire--the varnish is basically the insualtion and it is very thin. If this varnish ever gets too hot and breaks down, adjacent windings in the motor can short out, leading to excessive current draw. When it gets really bad, the friggin thing will catch on fire!

Don you did the right thing getting a new fan.

Hope this helps.

Mike

 

[don_w]

Just for closure, the fan I ordered from GoPart.com arrived yesterday (2 days after I ordered it). It was packaged extremely well, and it was exactly like the stock OEM fan. Got it installed no problem, and it works great.

Considering I only paid $119 compared to about $400 at the dealer, and it arrived in just 2 days, I can't be happier.

Gotta give to GoPart.com... good product, timely service, excellent price!

 

[thump_rrr]

The reason I alternate between the radiator and fan is twofold.
If you run the radiator fan for more than a minute or 2 the radiator cools down to ambient temperature. This is because the radiator can extract more heat than the coolant can pick up out of the block.
Secondly the radiator is bypassed when the coolant temp is below 180ºF so it can no longer pick up any heat.
The heater core doesn't have a thermostat so it can cool down further.
I can run both at the same time and only cycle the radiator fan but running those fans along with my 2 heat exchanger fans, EH2O pump and Intercooler pump taxes the charging system quite a bit.

 

[don_w]

Secondly the radiator is bypassed when the coolant temp is below 180ºF so it can no longer pick up any heat.

That assumes a 180º T-stat, right? I have a 160º T-stat, so mine drops to 160º quite easily.

I can run both at the same time and only cycle the radiator fan but running those fans along with my 2 heat exchanger fans, EH2O pump and Intercooler pump taxes the charging system quite a bit.

So other than the charging system, there is no real reason not to run both. I just got a generator and a nice big battery charger which will now be part of my normal track paraphernalia. I'll have that hooked up whenever I'm in cool down mode.

 

[MLC40]

Dumb Question

Sorry to ask a dumb question, but my car is in storage so I can't measure the voltage to make sure of this. I am making a pcb for an extra power distribution box for all the extra wires I have. I wanted to have a switch that I can use to manually turn on the main cooling fans with the key in the off position. I was planning on adding in an additional relay, but after checking the pdfs in this thread I think I can accomplish what I want to do by just running 12vdc to the coil of the high speed fan relay. Has anyone on here done this?

If not, can someone check to see if with the key off pin 87 of the high speed relay has power?

TIA

 

[PNR Welding]

Bringing a old thread back for some conclusions. Over the winter I hooked up the innerceptor gauges up and recently after changing to a 18% OD pulley I relized my head temps were going up to 225, didnt see anything higher and then the fan would com on bringing it down to 205. So we thought the issue was with the stock water pump. I replaced it with a Electric H20 one. Then we still had the same issue. Coolant temp from 195 to 213 and head temp up to 225. Once it hit the 225 it would then cool down. I have strickly H20 in the coolant system. Going to add purple Ice as soon as I get this under control.
Then I changed the thermostat and still the same.

So today I installed a wire from the High fan relay to a ground. Has this been successfull for everyone? This way when I turn the ignition on the innercooler, fan, and E20 waterpump all come on. I know it takes a toll on the battery, but with my gauges I can monitor it. 800 Cold crank amp Braille battery. I also noticed that my IATs are running 135 around town. That is too hot for 80* weather. Hopefully running these fans will help.

 

[Blazing Saddles]

Bringing a old thread back for some conclusions. Over the winter I hooked up the innerceptor gauges up and recently after changing to a 18% OD pulley I relized my head temps were going up to 225, didnt see anything higher and then the fan would com on bringing it down to 205. So we thought the issue was with the stock water pump. I replaced it with a Electric H20 one. Then we still had the same issue. Coolant temp from 195 to 213 and head temp up to 225. Once it hit the 225 it would then cool down. I have strickly H20 in the coolant system. Going to add purple Ice as soon as I get this under control.
Then I changed the thermostat and still the same.

So today I installed a wire from the High fan relay to a ground. Has this been successfull for everyone? This way when I turn the ignition on the innercooler, fan, and E20 waterpump all come on. I know it takes a toll on the battery, but with my gauges I can monitor it. 800 Cold crank amp Braille battery. I also noticed that my IATs are running 135 around town. That is too hot for 80* weather. Hopefully running these fans will help.

Most fan problems are caused by the resistor on the fan shroud failing. We know your getting juice to the fan by bypassing the high speed relay by grounding it. Test the low speed by putting the high speed relay that you've grounded into the low speed fan relays socket. Turn the key on. The fan should work. If it doesn't the resistor is shot. I replaced my resistor 4 years ago. I understand there's been a design change and the resistor may not be a serviceable part anymore. As a temporary fix I used my tuner to compensate for the low speed fan not working. I plugged the tuner into the OBD port and wrote down what the fan settings were. Next I lowered the low speed fan settings as low as they would go. Then I lowered the high speed fan on setting to compensate for not having a working low speed fan.
Good Luck. George

 

[thump_rrr]

It is pointless to try using the low speed setting to cool the car in the pits since low and high speed have the same draw from the battery.
The only difference is that the energy is converted to heat in the resistor rather than turning the fan.

 

[lostsoul]

I just had a co-worker that had fan issues on his KB(05 gt). It would run on lo speed but not high (when ac was on). I gave him my fan to test with and didnt help. thought it was the connector module and that didnt help. He found out with help of his bro(Ford tech) that the wires under the fuse block itself were charred and burnt. As the ass hacked up mine and works great now

 

[Blazing Saddles]

It is pointless to try using the low speed setting to cool the car in the pits since low and high speed have the same draw from the battery.
The only difference is that the energy is converted to heat in the resistor rather than turning the fan.

Yeah, I remember you telling me that at New England Dragway 3 years ago.

 

[1fastpony]

Did you guys ever come to a clear and proper procedure to wire up the high speed relay in order for the fan to operate with or without the key turn on for cooling engine after a run?

 

[MLC40]

What I did was wire a relay to an SOS dash panel. The output of the relay I spliced into the wire that goes to the fan.

 

[tmcolegr]

+1 Same here.

I have my Meziere H2O pump wired to turn on with the key via a relay as per Meziere's recommendation. I also have one of the switches in my SOS cup holder gauge panel which activates 2 relays allowing me to turn on the Meziere H2O pump and high speed fan without the key being in the "on" position.

Same scenario with my Saleen I/C pump & Spal H/E fans. They turn on with the key or I can manually turn them on with a switch in the SOS cupholder gauge panel without the key being in the "on" position.

 

[MikeyBlacks]

How much cfm do these stock fans push ?? I have a 08 gt.