JDM 302E Engine Owners - Check In!!

AutoXRacer

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New update:

Well, I had a buddy follow me yesterday for a +6 hour road trip (went to Race Wars and got rained out. sigh).
He said he noticed when I stop at a traffic light, that as soon as I get going after sitting there, I get a light puff of smoke and then it clears up.
My question is, my PCV system is deleted, how I am accumulating oil while idling? What is this a sign of?
 

stang67

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I had a brand new ford racing hotrod engine in my car and it would puff like that and total I put may 4000 on it before I sold it
 

skwerl

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Not a hard enough break in, maybe? Mine is going to get tested for leaks and then it will be broken in on the dyno while Justin tunes it.
 

BruceH

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New update:

Well, I had a buddy follow me yesterday for a +6 hour road trip (went to Race Wars and got rained out. sigh).
He said he noticed when I stop at a traffic light, that as soon as I get going after sitting there, I get a light puff of smoke and then it clears up.
My question is, my PCV system is deleted, how I am accumulating oil while idling? What is this a sign of?

Have you tried monitoring oil usage from midpoint on the dipstick? Don't fill it to the line, just to midpoint and monitor from there? What was your consumption to Oregon and back?
 

Back@itagain

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Pull the blower off and look at the backsides of the intake valves. How many months has it been now? It's time to just get dirty and take something apart.
 

AutoXRacer

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Have you tried monitoring oil usage from midpoint on the dipstick? Don't fill it to the line, just to midpoint and monitor from there? What was your consumption to Oregon and back?

Yep... I changed the oil and did not fill it...the oil just kept reducing until it was below the low line.

I have never been to Oregon. I recently went to Shelton to The Ridge Motorsport Complex.

I got through a full quart for 5x 20 mins sessions. NOT NORMAL!!

The puff of smoke after idling for a while is so small, I can't see it with the rearview camera. That's how light it is.

Pull the blower off and look at the backsides of the intake valves. How many months has it been now? It's time to just get dirty and take something apart.

Sigh... I think you are right. :(
 

BruceH

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That's too bad. I was really hoping it would be something simple. Let me know if you want any help.
 

AutoXRacer

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That's too bad. I was really hoping it would be something simple. Let me know if you want any help.

Bruce, so lets just say it was the valve stem seals. Is that something that can be replaced without tearing the motor apart? Can it be done with just removing the valve covers and valve springs?

Or will the heads have to come off?
 

stang67

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Nope had mine done you have to remove the heads I had about 900 in them redoing mine
 

AutoXRacer

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But the stem seals come out from the top right?

Why couldn't you pressurize the cylinder (to keep the valve up) and remove the valve stem seal...?

Just wondering...

Update!! Just read the Ford Service manual...

You can R&R the valve stem seals without R&R the heads:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=165&viewfile=Valve%20Seals.pdf

Now, the question is, what kind (size) of compressor I need to maintain 150PSI... lol
 
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BadPiggy

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Now, the question is, what kind (size) of compressor I need to maintain 150PSI... lol
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It's not a matter of maintaining that pressure. You won't be running an impact gun, or the likes. You just need to get the air up and it'll stay put...unless you have a helluva leak.
 

stang67

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I was thinking valve guides my heads had 3800 mi on the and had to replace 8 guides they said it was because of the blower I had the same one you have
 

BruceH

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But the stem seals come out from the top right?

Why couldn't you pressurize the cylinder (to keep the valve up) and remove the valve stem seal...?

Just wondering...

Update!! Just read the Ford Service manual...

You can R&R the valve stem seals without R&R the heads:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=165&viewfile=Valve Seals.pdf

Now, the question is, what kind (size) of compressor I need to maintain 150PSI... lol

Yes you can do them from the top. As long as the cylinder is a tdc the valve won't drop all the way. Having the bore pressurized helps though.

I have a Harbor Freight 6 gallon pancake compressor that inflated my cylinders enough to move the crank. It was less than $150.
 

AutoXRacer

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Yes you can do them from the top. As long as the cylinder is a tdc the valve won't drop all the way. Having the bore pressurized helps though.

I have a Harbor Freight 6 gallon pancake compressor that inflated my cylinders enough to move the crank. It was less than $150.

Would this be something you could help me with?

I have a 2 gallon hobby 150 PSI max compressor. Not sure that would be adequate?? What do you think?

No my question is... Since the heads were built by JDM...what happened to the valve seals? What makes brand new valve seals go bad/leak?
 

BruceH

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Would this be something you could help me with?

I have a 2 gallon hobby 150 PSI max compressor. Not sure that would be adequate?? What do you think?

No my question is... Since the heads were built by JDM...what happened to the valve seals? What makes brand new valve seals go bad/leak?

I could help you. Do you have a valve spring compressor? Have you determined that they are bad yet? It's a back breaking job with the motor in the car and it's not something you would want to do unless it was certain.
 

WARstang

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I would lean more towards rings not properly seated the valve seals.. imo

What checks have you done? Compression, leak down?
 

AutoXRacer

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I could help you. Do you have a valve spring compressor? Have you determined that they are bad yet? It's a back breaking job with the motor in the car and it's not something you would want to do unless it was certain.

Not yet. Going to try to find a good borescope so I can stick down the injector holes and take a look. I guess if the valves are black or have oil residue, thats a confirmation.

I'll research where I can find a 3V spring compressor. I've seen them for the 2V and 4V, but not sure those work for our 3V.

I'll keep you posted.


I would lean more towards rings not properly seated the valve seals.. imo

What checks have you done? Compression, leak down?

I was thinking it was the cylinder walls at first, but the compression and supposedly leak down test do not indicate that. Due to the recent info that my buddy gave me following me on Saturday, I get a light puff of smoke after I have been idling at a traffic light. Puffs right as I get moving, then disappears and does not come back until I idle again. I don't think rings do that. So the new thought is that it could be the valve seals. I will try to get a good borescope and shove it in the injector bores and try to inspect the valves for any signs of oil.

For compression and leak down results, see page 1 post #37.


What did Jdm do to them you said they were frpp stage. 1

Nothing... These are stock FRPP heads; direct replacement for stock heads. See this thread: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1881344#post1881344
Page 9 Post #166
 
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stang67

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I would assume that the valve seals would not be Jdm s fault as if they only changed the springs
 

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