My 5.4L 3V N/A build thread

MexGT

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well with the new 6.2 that is capable of being stroked to 7.0+ I think thats just better for NA guys!

uhmmmmm and even a carbed version would be badass
 

Matt D

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they will fit but there's so much machine work to do on the GT block to make it fit in our cars...i had a chance to buy one still in the crate for $2k but it was going to cost $2500 in machine work to have it setup for a wet sump oiling system and a standard starter location..then add $1100 to do the big bore ...oh and it requires a custom oil pan since the block is wider than regular mod motors....it is the best and strongest block though....other option is SHM they make a 3.7 bore 5.4 block...probably still $4k though....FRPP now has an aluminum 5.4 block (small bore) listed but not sure of the price
once the 2011 GT500's are out for a while you should be able to get one of those aluminum 5.4 blocks (ford is switching to aluminum in 2011 for less weight) they are about 100lbs. lighter and already machined for the wet sump and starter.
this is one of the few times you will ever hear me say forget the weight but really adding 50cid is worth giving up 100lbs.
50 cid can yield 50-75hp or more which will easily overcome the 100lbs. you add.
i'm happy with my decision to go with the 5.4 even if it D\Q's me from running some heads up events....still can't figure that out cause big bore stroker 4.6's are legal along with the new 2011 5.0L 4V with 412hp stock....huh... how bout that...got a feeling no matter what i have it would be illegal cause it's fast.

Thanks for all the info, Have you been messing with the car at all latley?
 

spyder7724

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Thanks for all the info, Have you been messing with the car at all latley?
went to the shootout and won that then last week in the 4th round i got busted for not having a roll bar and they messed me up by making me dial up to 11.50 (i was dialed 11.39 whoopee) so i beat the homo that narc'd me out and then lost (well officially DQ'd hehe) the next round in a double breakout cause i went faster than 11.50 again (even added 100lbs of weight to slow it down) otherwise i won the round. car was deadly consistant all day.
gotta do the roll bar soon so i can run it flat out.
sucker is running good went 11.39 in humid 95degree heat with the spare tire in seats in street belt on etc. roughly at 3850lbs
can't wait for super stallions in th fall at cecil. i'm dropping the exhaust and everything i can to see if it really will run 10.60's like my buddy predicted. he's been right on so far.
matt my engine in your car would probably run 10.30 or so maybe even quicker with the stick shift trans...and it's streetable....
 

luillo

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they will fit but there's so much machine work to do on the GT block to make it fit in our cars...i had a chance to buy one still in the crate for $2k but it was going to cost $2500 in machine work to have it setup for a wet sump oiling system and a standard starter location..then add $1100 to do the big bore ...oh and it requires a custom oil pan since the block is wider than regular mod motors....it is the best and strongest block though....other option is SHM they make a 3.7 bore 5.4 block...probably still $4k though....FRPP now has an aluminum 5.4 block (small bore) listed but not sure of the price
once the 2011 GT500's are out for a while you should be able to get one of those aluminum 5.4 blocks (ford is switching to aluminum in 2011 for less weight) they are about 100lbs. lighter and already machined for the wet sump and starter.
this is one of the few times you will ever hear me say forget the weight but really adding 50cid is worth giving up 100lbs.
50 cid can yield 50-75hp or more which will easily overcome the 100lbs. you add.
i'm happy with my decision to go with the 5.4 even if it D\Q's me from running some heads up events....still can't figure that out cause big bore stroker 4.6's are legal along with the new 2011 5.0L 4V with 412hp stock....huh... how bout that...got a feeling no matter what i have it would be illegal cause it's fast.

I thought that the 5.4 aluminum GT block was for the Ford GT that is DOHC and the 3V head will not fit. All i am looking is for a 5.4L that the 3V head
will fit on them that way i can get my heads worked and then installed in that block.
 

spyder7724

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anybody??????
thats a special combo and it's going to have to be built to order...check JPC they have a deal with RGR and build quite a few of those....it's not cheap though.
the 3V heads will work on the GT block but there's so much other stuff to do it's just not worth it to me.
if you want a 5.4 then it's easy go find a 04-up F150 and there it is...someone just gave me one it needs a head and piston but the block is good and it's complete
the one in my car (used core) was bought for $800 from a local junkyard there about 500,000 of them out there now so they should be a little cheaper now.
there's approx. 105lbs difference between the iron 5.4 block and the new GT500 aluminum block
 

luillo

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thats a special combo and it's going to have to be built to order...check JPC they have a deal with RGR and build quite a few of those....it's not cheap though.
the 3V heads will work on the GT block but there's so much other stuff to do it's just not worth it to me.
if you want a 5.4 then it's easy go find a 04-up F150 and there it is...someone just gave me one it needs a head and piston but the block is good and it's complete
the one in my car (used core) was bought for $800 from a local junkyard there about 500,000 of them out there now so they should be a little cheaper now.
there's approx. 105lbs difference between the iron 5.4 block and the new GT500 aluminum block

damn man thanks for the info. I will keep looking to learn more and see what i do. I am not sure if i really want the aluminum block and all that extra money involve to get it to work specialy with my plans, i want to use Rouch TVS of Kenne Bell mamoth and i think iron will be better right???? i am not sure how strong will be those aluminum blocks.
 

spyder7724

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damn man thanks for the info. I will keep looking to learn more and see what i do. I am not sure if i really want the aluminum block and all that extra money involve to get it to work specialy with my plans, i want to use Rouch TVS of Kenne Bell mamoth and i think iron will be better right???? i am not sure how strong will be those aluminum blocks.
according to my research the aluminum blocks are stronger and are the best to use for really high hp builds (900+hp) bu the iron block are fine up to that point. there is one particular 5.4 block that is stronger and can be bored up to 3.625 but is seems to be a well kept secret by a few engine builders. i couldn't find any info on them or what casting #'s but i do know the 04-up 5.4 block can not be bored more than .020 ...i had mine sonic tested and the cylinder walls were pretty thin so i know these are not the ones they are using. they must be using a early 2v block or something maybe an extremely rare casting # or something. i chose the newer 3v for the ease of installation knowing everything was pretty close to the stock 4.6 3v i had in the car.
 

luillo

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according to my research the aluminum blocks are stronger and are the best to use for really high hp builds (900+hp) bu the iron block are fine up to that point. there is one particular 5.4 block that is stronger and can be bored up to 3.625 but is seems to be a well kept secret by a few engine builders. i couldn't find any info on them or what casting #'s but i do know the 04-up 5.4 block can not be bored more than .020 ...i had mine sonic tested and the cylinder walls were pretty thin so i know these are not the ones they are using. they must be using a early 2v block or something maybe an extremely rare casting # or something. i chose the newer 3v for the ease of installation knowing everything was pretty close to the stock 4.6 3v i had in the car.

Sorry for asking but how much HP could i spect from a 5.4L low compression with stock heads or ported and cams??? i seen then average is like 340-360 RWHP is tha close????

I want to run the car N/A for a while until i can save more money to buy the blower.
 

spyder7724

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Sorry for asking but how much HP could i spect from a 5.4L low compression with stock heads or ported and cams??? i seen then average is like 340-360 RWHP is tha close????

I want to run the car N/A for a while until i can save more money to buy the blower.
well i'm not fan of chassis dyno hp numbers. there's too many things that can skew the final numbers (torque converter, gears, tires\wheels, drivetrain etc,) so i try to use engine hp goals. honestly i think you could make 475-500 engine hp with a low (9.5:1 or so) compression ported head big cam combo with a good intake. thats the issue you have with the 5.4 swap. trying to use a stock truck intake would absolutely choke the new combo so an aftermarket intake is needed. if you are planing on using a supercharger you'll have to decide on which type. a roush or kenne bell comes with an intake so that would save on the cost of buying an intake but if you are going to run it NA for a while you have to buy an intake (i advise the JPC for many reasons) so in that case you may reconsider your choice of power adder. using the JPC or whoevers intake you could go with a procharger or turbo. tough decision. if you have the money go ahead and get the roush or kenne bell supercharger cause if does prevent the need for an intake.
choices choices choices
 

weather man

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Blast From the Past N/A FTW!!!

once the 2011 GT500's are out for a while you should be able to get one of those aluminum 5.4 blocks (ford is switching to aluminum in 2011 for less weight) they are about 100lbs. lighter and already machined for the wet sump and starter.

You seemed to be plugged in on N/A building. Are guys putting the new 5.4 aluminum blocks in their cars? Is there a bunch of machining required? I think this would be a neat option instead of F/I. I don't even know the right questions to ask...LOL K member, 5 speed still usable?
 

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