Parking Brake Not releasing

[southernthunder]

Ok I noticed today when I released my parking brake to pull out of carport the car didnt want to roll and wanted to bog when releasing the clutch. My driveway has an incline so it should have rolled easily yet it remained still with no brake or anything to stop it. I have noticed the Parking break handle lifts to about 45* before it even has any resistance. Then on pulls about 3 clicks to hold the car normally.

I was wandering if anyone has had a similar issue on your car. I am going to pull the console out in the morning to see if there is an issue inside the parking brake and then I will have to track it out. If anyone knows of a exact common issue please let me know.

Thanks.

BTW its an 2005 GT 5 speed

 

[tmcolegr]

what you are experiencing is a common problem typically in colder climates. There's a TSB out about the cables allowing water entry and freezing in colder climates. The seals on the parking brake cables at the caliper ends if the cable were of poor design on 05/06 MY vehicles.

See post# 41

 

[eddypython]

Yeah, my money is not under your console. Plus, you can adjust without taking the console off. Look under your armrest. But it's not a problem from there.

Check your calipers. they might be stuck.

I changed my whole handle-cable all the way to the calipers. My cable snapped last summer.

I know I had an issue with calipers before. On another ford. Good luck

 

[southernthunder]

Thanks Guys. I will start on the rear at calipers instead of in the console. It feels like it releases if I drive it a short distance. But dont want to drive the car to far as it will toast the rear breaks. Thanks for the help. Do you happen to know a link to the TSB

 

[tmcolegr]

I provided a link - click on see post# 41.

 

[Silver06]

Just fixed the same problem on my girlfriends 05 V6 Mustang. Look at the cable right at the caliper. On hers the rubber boot was completely destroyed by the elements and allowed water to get in. With hers the handle was basically doing nothing because the rear portion of the cables was not sliding at all (i.e. it didn't matter if she engaged or released the brake from within the car. Her rear brake pads were shot. The outside pads were almost completely gone, and the inside pads were like brand new (they were the originals pads). I had to replace both rear cables. It is a very easy job if you know how to do it. I had to figure out how to get them out. They took about 20 minute to reinstall. You wouldn't believe the difference with new cables. The ones the dealership sells now are much improved over the original ones used in 05/06 (but they also want between $60 - $100 each depending on which cable and where you buy it). One dealer wanted $200 for both, but Tommy Vaughn Ford sold them to us for $140. The difference was night and day with the new parts. I have driven 5-6 S197's and none have had as smooth of an e-brake as hers does now.

Easiest way to do it is if you have open wheels have someone engage and dis-engage the e-brake and see if you can see it moving (w/o open wheels take off the rims and inspect). Inspect the cables for wear at the caliper, and inspect your rear pads.

Hope this helps.

 

[scramblr]

On mine, the rubber boot at the end of the left side cable that attaches to the caliper is torn. This allowed moisture and grime to get into the cable sheath.

For a temporary fix, I unhooked the cable from the caliper and sprayed liquid wrench into the hole where the cable enters the sheath and let it sit. Then I loosened the tension from the e-brake adjustment nut. I took a pair of channel lock pliers and grabbed the cable by the metal end that connects to the caliper and hit the pliers with a hammer pulling the cable out of the sheath...It worked, it came out like 3 inches.

I then pulled the e-brake handle up to pull the cable in, put the handle down and then repeated the steps with the pliers and hammer until the cable moved freely with the e-brake handle alone.

Temporarily, I found a rubber boot to replace the OEM one and zip tied it in place along with some RTV. The car now sits still on a hill in neutral.

I just ordered a new cable since I know there's still corrosion inside the cable. They're not expensive but I went through the above because I have to pass inspection now and the cable will take a couple of weeks to get to me.

http://www.teamfordparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214270

Hope this helps..

 

[vistablue46]

+1 Alex


Joe

 

[scramblr]

+1 Alex


Joe

Aha...welcome to the forum Joe!!! Should have mentioned it was your idea to use the hammer to pull the cable out. This one is for you my friend.