SLP Line Lock Stuck

[bigpappy33]

So I have had my SLP line lock installed for about 2 weeks or so, has worked fine the few times I had used it (if you saw my line lock vid you know) so today I went to turn it on and, well, It stayed on...

So I troubleshooted about everything, disconnected the power to the solenoid, nothing, played with the switch and even tried a different switch, nothing, and tried moving the ground, no luck there either.

This leads me to believe that it has to be a bad solenoid, which is really annoying. I will give SLP a call Monday, but do any of you guys have some other potential solutions? If I toggle the switch with my foot all the way in the brake, I hear the brakes start to creak, and they slowly let out and I can move the car, but as soon as i hit the brakes again the solenoid engages again (even with the switch off).


Thoughts?

 

[VTXFrank]

That would be a massive, frustrating, pain in the ass!!

Any way, what I would do is get the solenoid to where it is fully released and then disconnect the power and ground to the solenoid. At least then it should keep it from re-engaging again.

 

[ayabrego]

When disengaging the line lock are you hearing a click from the solenoid. As for the car starting to move check if you have any brake fluid leaks anywhere. I know my car was doing that. Let me know what you find out. I just finish my install recently.

 

[fdjizm]

Wow that sucks!!!
Like Frank said, get it to release and disconnect it it's worth a try.

 

[bigpappy33]

When disengaging the line lock are you hearing a click from the solenoid. As for the car starting to move check if you have any brake fluid leaks anywhere. I know my car was doing that. Let me know what you find out. I just finish my install recently.

Yes the solenoid is clicking when I flip the switch back and forth. No leaks that I can see. I'll look harder tomorrow. What could a leak mean?

 

[ayabrego]

Well if your leaking brake fluid from the caliper then your losing brake pressure on the rotor thus allowing the car to move. Im interested in whats happening .so keep me updated. I have the same kit.

 

[scramblr]

The easiest thing to do after checking the wiring is swap out the solenoid. Chances are that's the problem if not electrical.

 

[NastyStang113]

I really hope you didn't just lose your ABS...

 

[scramblr]

I really hope you didn't just lose your ABS...

Haven't heard that happening on these cars yet. Usually it's the solenoid.

 

[TexasKyle]

the plunger is sticking/stuck in the solenoid. If you can disconnect power, you can hear it click, and it still doesnt release, then there is no other explanation.

When a solenoid coil over heats, the coil swells. When the coil swells, the plunger can get stuck inside the coil, or not move freely like it should.

I dont think this is your problem, but make sure you are not "switching" the ground. Never run the hot lead right to the solenoid, and then run the ground thru the switch. If you have a short to ground between the switch and the solenoid, it will activate the solenoid, regardless of switch position.

 

[09 Ricky]

the plunger is sticking/stuck in the solenoid. If you can disconnect power, you can hear it click, and it still doesnt release, then there is no other explanation.

When a solenoid coil over heats, the coil swells. When the coil swells, the plunger can get stuck inside the coil, or not move freely like it should.

I dont think this is your problem, but make sure you are not "switching" the ground. Never run the hot lead right to the solenoid, and then run the ground thru the switch. If you have a short to ground between the switch and the solenoid, it will activate the solenoid, regardless of switch position.

Yep, good post

 

[bigpappy33]

the plunger is sticking/stuck in the solenoid. If you can disconnect power, you can hear it click, and it still doesnt release, then there is no other explanation.

When a solenoid coil over heats, the coil swells. When the coil swells, the plunger can get stuck inside the coil, or not move freely like it should.

I dont think this is your problem, but make sure you are not "switching" the ground. Never run the hot lead right to the solenoid, and then run the ground thru the switch. If you have a short to ground between the switch and the solenoid, it will activate the solenoid, regardless of switch position.

The kit came with the ground running through the switch, should I rewire it to where the ground goes directly to the solenoid and the switch is tapped off of that?

The thing sits right next to these big 4v heads so it def could have over heated...

 

[bigpappy33]

Just did some recon, and apparently I ordered an 05-06 kit (since my car is an 06) thinknig since I have the 06 master cylinder and proportioning valve it would be better. Well apparently the difference is the 07+ kit mounts the solenoid further away from the engine, keeping it away from the heat. So I melted my solenoid for nothing. Waste of 150 bucks...

 

[TexasKyle]

For the reason I stated, never switch the ground (or common in A/C electrical work). The hot wire should always be used to stop/start any electrical control function. Doing anything else, regardless if it is "just 12v" or "just a car" will eventually bite you in the ass.

If you switch the hot wire, and it is properly fused, you can never have the component operate "accidentally".

Sorry about your toasted solenoid due to excess ambient temp. Can't you just buy a new solenoid and relocate it? Or, just the coil would be cheaper.

 

[bigpappy33]

Gonna see if they will send me a new solenoid and the 07-09 lines only tomorrow since I already have the switch and wiring etc. The 07-09 lines move the solenoid to the front of the strut tower, instead of installed in-line right next to the driver side head. The car rolled this morning, so I disconnected the power to the solenoid, but when I pushed the brake it locked again.

I guess it's stupid the way the set up the wiring for the kit then, running the power right to the solenoid and the ground being switched. Don't think it was my problem, but good information to know. Thanks for the help Kyle.

 

[CtRoush]

Kyle, are you saying the directions from SLP are really incorrect then ? It should be wired backwards of what SLP says to do ?

thx

I'm getting ready to install this in an 07 ... Roush ..

 

[TexasKyle]

Kyle, are you saying the directions from SLP are really incorrect then ? It should be wired backwards of what SLP says to do ?

thx

I'm getting ready to install this in an 07 ... Roush ..

What I am saying is that it will "work" either way. The way SLP is telling everyone to wire it is not Safe. Period.

Wire it the way that SLP tells you to, and there is a chance that you can have the solenoid activate without your knowledge. If you have a fault in the wiring, the solenoid energizes. What happens if the solenoid energizes while you are going down the road, and then need your brakes? Answer, you wouldn't have any.

Wire it they way I said, and the solenoid will never be able to activate without direct input from you. If a fault in the wiring occurs, you will blow the fuse. That is the Safe way to do it, and good electrical practice to boot.

 

[CtRoush]

So thats put the switch on the positive side before it reaches the solenoid ? Right ?

 

[CtRoush]

Yeah got it now ... Thanks for this info ... Great point .... I'm going to hunt around for a seperate setup. I saw a nice one that someone put in with an LED to show the switch is armed. It was on an emeny car but still looked nice. (Camaro)

 

[fdjizm]

That is weird why would they have the ground be the switch.