tried to improve but

[greenmonster2]

I'm stumped, best time I ran my 2006 gt 5speed borla stingers, mac pro chamber off road mid pipe, lowered 1.25 inches, stock shocks, k&n air filter, 3.55 and 26x10.5 et streets and a Bama tune 12.95 at 106. Now I've upgraded to a steeda cai, 4.10 and bmr lower control arms w/relocating brackets, spec 3+ clutch, and a much better tune now my best run has been 13.2 @ 103.17. I was launching at 5200rpm and tires set at 20psi but was spinning so I lowered the tire pressure to about 17 psi and also came out at about 4000rpm I didn't spin but didn't get a great 60ft shift points are at 6100.. why has my times gone worse? Can it be my tires are to small?

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

why has my times gone worse? Can it be my tires are to small?

I think it's because you're missing 8 valves and 2 cams, but I could be wrong.

 

[greenmonster2]

Lol maybe I should switch to a chevy

 

[Wild White Pony]

If you have an SCT handheld, add some more timing down low. With that new clutch and relocation brackets your probably sticking more to the ground and loading the motor up.
Now that you have new lower control arms and brackets, do you have an adjustable upper to dial in the pinion angle?

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Lol maybe I should switch to a chevy

hahahahahahaha

 

[greenmonster2]

If you have an SCT handheld, add some more timing down low. With that new clutch and relocation brackets your probably sticking more to the ground and loading the motor up.
Now that you have new lower control arms and brackets, do you have an adjustable upper to dial in the pinion angle?

No I do not I know my suspension might be suffering from not having the right pinion angle but the pinion angle hasn't moved from the first setup.. correct me if I'm wrong. I am on the top hole of the brackets

 

[greenmonster2]

hahahahahahaha

Believe me I've been fight not getting into 5.0 for awhile... not looking for another 6 year plan

 

[01yellerCobra]

Why didn't you keep the same launch rpm after lowering the air pressure?

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[NickD87]

It's not launch your 60' times are similar, your mph is down that's indicating less power.
You either had worse weather (higher density altitude), are shifting slower (and maybe now an extra gear with the 4.10s) or your tune is off and your making less power.
Weather can play a big difference but I think there may be something else still.
Don't get why everyone is harping on launch...

 

[greenmonster2]

Why didn't you keep the same launch rpm after lowering the air pressure?

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I spun really hard, I've tried lowering the tire pressure and I was trapped 101... missed third on the last time slip

 

[greenmonster2]

It's not launch your 60' times are similar, your mph is down that's indicating less power.
You either had worse weather (higher density altitude), are shifting slower (and maybe now an extra gear with the 4.10s) or your tune is off and your making less power.
Weather can play a big difference but I think there may be something else still.
Don't get why everyone is harping on launch...

I'm thinking my gears and tires aren't right for my car... With the tune I have now I do feel like the car is def pulling all the way through but I don't know just confused

 

[fdjizm]

Shifting at 6100? this aint a truck! rev that bitch up.

 

[Wild White Pony]

No I do not I know my suspension might be suffering from not having the right pinion angle but the pinion angle hasn't moved from the first setup.. correct me if I'm wrong. I am on the top hole of the brackets

You should be 1 hole down from original position otherwise no need for relocation bracket. With the mods you made you would expect your 60ft to be quicker, your mph would be less with that gear.

I agree too that you need to shift that thing a little higher, I never shifted less than 6500rpm and with my current setup I've been shifting even closer to 7k on a built motor, boost, lockout, cams and springs. It loves rpm and shift points are best in the average peak hp range, not peak hp.

IMO I would spend the money and get an adjustable upper control arm, utilize the relocation bracket by moving down a hole, dial in your pinion angle. Then take it to a dyno day or ask a local tuner for a few pulls since you have an email tune. Normally they charge about $75-$100.00 for the pulls, this does not include any tuning but you can find your peak hp and hp curve. Now take that peak number and say 2 points below that number at 100rpm increments, then do this 2 points above. Now take those 5 reading and add together and divide by 5. Now drop the lowest number shifting that group to the right 100 rpms, divide by five, keep doing this to keep getting average hp above peak. Now do this in the opposite direction from peak getting that average below peak hp.
You should end up average peak hp and figure where your best shift points will be with the best averages. Datalog your shifts at the points you select and see how many rpms your dropping and record, your goal is to pick the point where you stay in your best hp average and loose the least amount of rpm.

Adding one of these 2 steps will help tighten up your shift and constantly be in your best hp range too. http://www.americanmuscle.com/msd-launch-master-2step-9910gt.html

I hope I explained this correctly but if anything it will be a little food for thought on getting better times.

 

[lindertw]

4.10's and 26" et streets (presuming they're bias ply) are perfect for your setup.

as WWP mentioned above, get an adjustable UCA and set your pinion angle to -2 or -2.5 deg. LCA in middle hole on relocation brackets, try rear tires at 15psi cold. stock shocks/struts aren't ideal but you should do ok.

I suspect that spec clutch hits hard and might be causing some of your wheel spin at launch (OEM clutch is great for a lower powered car and has just the right amount of slip built in).

 

[NickD87]

4.10's and 26" et streets (presuming they're bias ply) are perfect for your setup.

as WWP mentioned above, get an adjustable UCA and set your pinion angle to -2 or -2.5 deg. LCA in middle hole on relocation brackets, try rear tires at 15psi cold. stock shocks/struts aren't ideal but you should do ok.

I suspect that spec clutch hits hard and might be causing some of your wheel spin at launch (OEM clutch is great for a lower powered car and has just the right amount of slip built in).

Hes doing in the 1.8 60' range both before and after, I agree he can do better but it still doesnt explain the loss of mph and slower 1/8-1/4 times.

I will vouch 4.10 and 26" is what Im running as well (radial though) If anything I wish I had 4.30's

 

[greenmonster2]

Shifting at 6100? this aint a truck! rev that bitch up.

What do you shift at?

 

[greenmonster2]

You should be 1 hole down from original position otherwise no need for relocation bracket. With the mods you made you would expect your 60ft to be quicker, your mph would be less with that gear.

I agree too that you need to shift that thing a little higher, I never shifted less than 6500rpm and with my current setup I've been shifting even closer to 7k on a built motor, boost, lockout, cams and springs. It loves rpm and shift points are best in the average peak hp range, not peak hp.

IMO I would spend the money and get an adjustable upper control arm, utilize the relocation bracket by moving down a hole, dial in your pinion angle. Then take it to a dyno day or ask a local tuner for a few pulls since you have an email tune. Normally they charge about $75-$100.00 for the pulls, this does not include any tuning but you can find your peak hp and hp curve. Now take that peak number and say 2 points below that number at 100rpm increments, then do this 2 points above. Now take those 5 reading and add together and divide by 5. Now drop the lowest number shifting that group to the right 100 rpms, divide by five, keep doing this to keep getting average hp above peak. Now do this in the opposite direction from peak getting that average below peak hp.
You should end up average peak hp and figure where your best shift points will be with the best averages. Datalog your shifts at the points you select and see how many rpms your dropping and record, your goal is to pick the point where you stay in your best hp average and loose the least amount of rpm.

Adding one of these 2 steps will help tighten up your shift and constantly be in your best hp range too. http://www.americanmuscle.com/msd-launch-master-2step-9910gt.html

I hope I explained this correctly but if anything it will be a little food for thought on getting better times.

I want to purchase the n2mb wot box. Just waiting to see what if I can get back to 12.9 again before I start purchasing other things

4.10's and 26" et streets (presuming they're bias ply) are perfect for your setup.

as WWP mentioned above, get an adjustable UCA and set your pinion angle to -2 or -2.5 deg. LCA in middle hole on relocation brackets, try rear tires at 15psi cold. stock shocks/struts aren't ideal but you should do ok.

I suspect that spec clutch hits hard and might be causing some of your wheel spin at launch (OEM clutch is great for a lower powered car and has just the right amount of slip built in).

Yea clutch does def his hard, I went with a stronger clutch because I had to rebuild my trans and since it was out I might as well upgrade. I once had the lower control arms at the lowest point for better traction but ended up not having reverse gear after a run at the track.

Hes doing in the 1.8 60' range both before and after, I agree he can do better but it still doesnt explain the loss of mph and slower 1/8-1/4 times.

I will vouch 4.10 and 26" is what Im running as well (radial though) If anything I wish I had 4.30's

I'm also confused why I've lost mph in the 1/8

 

[Marble]

I think your mph dropping by 2-3 mph could be a few things.

If your 60' dropped significantly than that could affect your trap speed.
The extra shift could explain it.
A poor tune could explain it.
Tires getting old could explain it.

With those tires you should be able to side step that clutch at 5000+ rpms and let it rip. I would expect 60' in the 1.6 range, maybe low 1.7.

Sometimes different days at the track they prep it differently. Street legal days have no prep, bracket racing days have great prep.

I think you should be shifting somewhere 6700, launching around 5500 and power shifting 4th which is the easiest one to do. Tire pressure around 16. Relocate bracket in lowest hole, suspension full hard in back, soft in front (if adjustable).

I would also chat with the company that tuned it if my mph doesn't come back to where it had been.

 

[fdjizm]

What do you shift at?

6600-6800

 

[lindertw]

What do you shift at?

I launch at 6500 off the limiter, and shift between 6500-7500 (I need to hook up my raptor shift light so I'll not be so random)