What have you done to your mustang today?

Mach2burnout

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GriffX

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Isn’t it amazing how fast time goes by. I’ve had my 05 GT for 18 years now!


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Have mine since 07, still love to drive it. Wish I did some mods earlier, like the noise insulation and the sway bars. The worn pinion bearing was the biggest issue. Time passed fast in the last 3 years. In 07 even the future was better ;)
 

Gabe

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Isn’t it amazing how fast time goes by. I’ve had my 05 GT for 18 years now!


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Sure does. Can't believe I've had my '13 for almost 11 years!! (picked it up Aug '12)
My wife bought her '08 in '13, only a few months before we met, she's had it for almost 10 years now too.
 

Gabe

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My plan to take the Shelby for a state inspection after work yesterday went to shit quickly.
Had to jump start it which wasted about 10-15 minutes between running back in for a jump pack, starting it and running back in to return it.
Then, raining the whole time, lots of traffic, the constant thought that if I stall it I'll be somewhat fucked since I didn't have a jump pack with me, no jumper cables, and in tons of traffic, so big chance of getting hit or creating a huge backup.
When I saw that my ETA to the place that was gonna do the inspection was gonna be 5-10 minutes before closing, and I still had 25+ minutes to drive to get there, I gave up and headed home.
Got it home safely, tucked it away in the garage.
Gonna get a new battery for it and try again.
Supposed to rain for about a week straight here now, so I have a few days to do this.
Had to replace the alternator last year, installed a new J2FAB unit, was hoping the battery was gonna be ok after recharging it, but this is now the second time I've had to jump start it, I'm done, it's getting replaced.
 

Pentalab

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This picture should explain it pretty well.
They're both BMR upper control arms with their respective brackets.
The '11-'14 unit on the left, the earlier-cars unit on the right.
You get a longer arm but same mounting point because the bracket is different

View attachment 87855
Excellent pix. Puzzle finally solved! I see that BMR makes a massive poly bushing for the axle end of the UCA. BUT BMR also read me the riot act, and said NOT to use it, if a BMR poly bushing, like used in either version of their adjustable UCA, is used at the front of their UCA.

IE: Don't use a 'poly to poly' combo on any UCA. BMR (Kelly, when he was still there) told me to instead either use either the oem rubber bushing, OR use the STEEDA spherical bushing. He said that 'Poly to Poly' would bind up in the corners. The BMR axle end poly bushing is only ok, if a spherical busing is used at the front end. Spherical to spherical would be the ultimate for handling...... but will also result in terrible NVH.

I have the original (05-10) version of the BMR UCA....and oem rubber bushing at axle end. If I had to replace the oem rear rubber bushing, I would use the 11+ BMR UCA...and the steeda spherical rear bushing....then call it a day.
 

DieHarder

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Excellent pix. Puzzle finally solved! I see that BMR makes a massive poly bushing for the axle end of the UCA. BUT BMR also read me the riot act, and said NOT to use it, if a BMR poly bushing, like used in either version of their adjustable UCA, is used at the front of their UCA.

IE: Don't use a 'poly to poly' combo on any UCA. BMR (Kelly, when he was still there) told me to instead either use either the oem rubber bushing, OR use the STEEDA spherical bushing. He said that 'Poly to Poly' would bind up in the corners. The BMR axle end poly bushing is only ok, if a spherical busing is used at the front end. Spherical to spherical would be the ultimate for handling...... but will also result in terrible NVH.

I have the original (05-10) version of the BMR UCA....and oem rubber bushing at axle end. If I had to replace the oem rear rubber bushing, I would use the 11+ BMR UCA...and the steeda spherical rear bushing....then call it a day.

I use the J&M version myself. No binding and I have replaced the OEM rubber w/urethane. No complaint's so far. Haven't tried the longer version.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/j-m-nonadjustable-rear-upper-control-arm-black-0510.html
 

MADGT

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Gabe! Was great meeting you over the weekend. Did the bolts work fine for you? Take care. Tony
 

Gabe

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Gabe! Was great meeting you over the weekend. Did the bolts work fine for you? Take care. Tony

Yes, they worked out great, thanks again, and sure enough, great to meet you too!
Most of the time it took to install was me cleaning out 15 years of rust from those rear bolt holes, and working the front bolts back and forth until they came out.
So happy to finally have them on this car too!
 

Gabe

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Wife's Shelby, yesterday, got a new battery.
Bought the last one at a Ford dealer in NH when we lived there, about 4 years ago, kept the receipt.
Battery was a BXT40R, had a 100-mo warranty, prorated after the first 3 years. Got the new battery for $59.60+tax. Score!
 

dark steed

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Yes, they worked out great, thanks again, and sure enough, great to meet you too!
Most of the time it took to install was me cleaning out 15 years of rust from those rear bolt holes, and working the front bolts back and forth until they came out.
So happy to finally have them on this car too!

I need to get some of those for mine. I foresee a lot of jacking up this summer.


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GriffX

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Wife's Shelby, yesterday, got a new battery.
Bought the last one at a Ford dealer in NH when we lived there, about 4 years ago, kept the receipt.
Battery was a BXT40R, had a 100-mo warranty, prorated after the first 3 years. Got the new battery for $59.60+tax. Score!
Remember to fill it up after some years. I squeezed 13 years out of it with refill.

Regarding the jacking rails, are they long enough to reach the rear jacking points?
Are they made of square tubes?
(Probably a good welding project, they are way too expensive shipping to Germany. And I have an Ezcarlift witch would make position way easier)
 

Forty61

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I haven’t done the work yet but after all the intense rain we’ve had lately I found my passenger floor wet for the first time in a long time.. time to pull the drains again I guess!
 

Gabe

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Remember to fill it up after some years. I squeezed 13 years out of it with refill.

Regarding the jacking rails, are they long enough to reach the rear jacking points?
Are they made of square tubes?
(Probably a good welding project, they are way too expensive shipping to Germany. And I have an Ezcarlift witch would make position way easier)


I jack the car up from about a foot behind the front wheel and both tires come off the ground.
Rectangular tubing with a flat mounting tab at the back and a wide flat tab in the front
 

GlassTop09

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Took her in to Discount Tire to get all 4 tires rebalanced & side swap rotation (noticed a slight shaking thru steering wheel when going straight…….knew frt end was in good shape & properly aligned) after 4+ yrs since last check…….fixed it all…….car drives smooth as silk w/ no shaking in steering wheel but is very responsive to any slight steering inputs now…….LOVE IT!

As for the Steeda Jacking Rails……best thing to have under your steed if you’re a DIY’er……had my set under my Stang for the last 5 yrs……makes putting the car up on jack stands a breeze.
+1 w/ Gabe…….
 

AHaze

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Made a trip out to a 1/8 mile drag strip with a friend and his newly supercharged '14 GT convertible. Track was in good shape for the first few runs but neither of us could put together a decent pass before traction went away. Still had some fun and learned my friend needs T-bolt clamps for his intercooler couplers.
 

GlassTop09

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Just finished replacing my heater door actuator (MC YH-1865) this morning so now have replaced both YH-1870’s & YH-1865 so only have the YH-1869 (by blower motor) left of the original actuators that came w/ car. Replaced w/ all FoMoCo MC replacements.

Now time to start washing her!
 
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