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Set it on fire...then collect on the insurance. You might even get $300.00

When threads are lubricated, you only require 60% as much torque. I see this all the time with fasteners. When they list tq specs, they have 2 x columns.....marked ...'wet'...and 'dry'. The wet is always aprx 60% of the dry spec.

Does anybody actually still make a 2 piece plug ?

It might be easier to buy a GT-500, then get a fixed sunroof installed.

Replace em on spec and be done with it. Gap em correctly. I used new Brisk plus on my 2010 GT, and gapped to .035" since I also have the small Roush M90 blower....(5 psi boost). The misfires dropped to ZERO with the new plugs installed.

on my 2010 gt, it comes with the plastic cover....to improve aero..... BUT it only extends back to the front of eng. IE: must be removed when up on the lift, to get the oil filter out. The hot air flows to the grnd via each side of the eng block. In my case, I tossed the oem upper grille (...

U would have to use 13' GT-500 hood vents. Without em, their would be no airflow through the myriad of radiators.

How do u get hot air from the eng bay down on each side of the eng block...when it's now blocked off ??

Fail safe...and limp mode is the same thing. Every 2nd cylinder is shut off, no spark and no fuel, just pumps air.

Why use a Fram oil filter ? Use the same ones from the GT-500. Ford racing filters.

After the M90 blower went in, abt a yr later, replaced the plugs with BRISK plugs....and gapped to .035" (5 psi boost). The misfires as indicated on the aeroforce gauges...dropped to zero. Dunno if the ford dealer reduced the oem gap on the oem plugs from .060" down to .035" or not. Use 100%...

I use RP 5W-30. Car is used all year long. 2010 GT, with small Roush M90 blower.

Takes a mere 30 seconds to remove the trunk liner, and remove the spare + jack etc. Leave the liner and spare tire and jack , and everything else u find in the truck area, OUT of the car, and temp put it to one side. Then take it for a ride. Yes, and check with a flashlight, feel around...

Are you folks taking abt that bearing, where the oem 2 piece DS joins in the middle ?

You would require 625 hp at the crank to get 500rwhp with any 5r55s. That's way beyond the safe limit for the stock block. Stock 5r55s just explode with 500 rwhp. I have yet to see any stock 5r55s that will hold 500rwhp.

My sensor is at right side (driver's side) on the lower grille. It clips into the lower grille. That's on my 2010 GT auto.

A 6 point socket is a lot stronger.... and the only thing that should be used on any impact wrench. Oops, just see u have 12 point bolts, wtf?

There are TWO of those damned things, one on either side of the eng, and both on the firewall. Reach down and pull em right out....then toss em.

Install a catch can on the rear axle. I used an Eaton-detroit tru-trac LSD (which uses plane jane 90W-140 dino oil), and also a whiteline watts link. The white line watts link comes with a new, super thick aluminum differential cover, like > 60mm thick. It comes with drain + fill plugs...and...

Whoever buys em, could easily measure the offset....then spill the beans. "trade secret 236B"...gimme a break.

Yes, what is the offset ? I'm assuming the rear offset is greater than the front offset.

U mean.... 'illegal aliens'.

Celsius is far too coarse for my liking. 10 C = 50 F. 20 C = 68 F 30 C = 86 F. A 10 deg C spread = a 18 F spread. A 20 C spread = 36 F spread. Having said that, when it's > 10 C, I use the F scale. When it's < 10C, I use the C scale. When it's getting close to freezing...

Nope, In Canada, mileage is XXX litres per 100 kms. I get abt 20 litres per 100km around town...and maybe 10-12 litres per 100 km on the hwy. If I switch from metric to imperial it's miles per gallon, and that's an imperial gallon ( = 4.54 litres). Metric came out after I left high...

The problem with koni yellow is.... they have hard compression. The adjustable part is ONLY the rebound. The koni orange are hard compression and rebound. What u want to end up with is..... firm, but not stiff. Stiffer / bigger front + rear sway bars will eliminate a lot of the leaning on...