Dies while driving, slow or freeway speeds

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*another parts update*

-Air filter, one in it looked factory

-Purge Valve

I read on another websites forum that a few users had similar/identical problems and they replaced the Purge Valve. I replaced mine, no dice.

It still dies under the same circumstances

when it’s not AS hot out it seems to prolong it, the difference between 85 degrees outside and 105 degrees seems to be about 15 minutes before first shut off at 85 and at 105 it can die before I make it out of the neighborhood.

The strange thing is when it’s down to the mid 70s outside it doesn’t die at all. Even after 45+ minutes of driving.

Maybe heat is building up some sort of pressure somewhere it isn’t supposed to be?

I’ve replaced the Gas cap, and the Purge valve so it shouldn’t be from the gas tank.
What is your water temp. when the car dies? Is your radiator fan running continuously like it should if A/C is on? If heat is building up your water temp. will show it. Cars don't normally die from overheating either, they throw steam first. Does it throw a wrench light when it dies? Our cars are supposed to be self-diagnosing and every error should be in a log somewhere. If it is not then your computer may be suspect. Electronics that are failing are often sensitive to heat. Maybe a Ford dealer can hook up their computer to it? I hate going to a dealer but I would hate my car dying without warning more.
 
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2005redkarma

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What is your water temp. when the car dies? Is your radiator fan running continuously like it should if A/C is on? If heat is building up your water temp. will show it. Cars don't normally die from overheating either, they throw steam first. Does it throw a wrench light when it dies? Our cars are supposed to be self-diagnosing and every error should be in a log somewhere. If it is not then your computer may be suspect. Electronics that are failing are often sensitive to heat. Maybe a Ford dealer can hook up their computer to it? I hate going to a dealer but I would hate my car dying without warning more.
The water temp gauge doesn’t go past the middle, both gas and coolant temp gauges do move really slow though as well. Especially when starting the car, it can take maybe 10 seconds before the gas gauge reads above half.

The semi sloppy work of the old owner shows the instrument cluster is popped a little out of place indicating someone has either replaced or messed with the cluster.

There IS a wrench that pops up, it pops up immediately after dying. I turn the key off, back on, wrench light is gone. It has never stayed on or popped up before dying.
 

wildlifeguy

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I went back and re read from the beginning. It caught my attention that you need to completely turn the key off and then back on to start. I'm wondering if it may be something with the ignition switch. I'm not suggesting throwing more parts at it, but just an idea to think about.
 

2005redkarma

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I went back and re read from the beginning. It caught my attention that you need to completely turn the key off and then back on to start. I'm wondering if it may be something with the ignition switch. I'm not suggesting throwing more parts at it, but just an idea to think about.
It has definitely been an idea and not a bad one either, I do believe if the ignition switch is at fault here the security light would come on since it would shut off the ignition coil and injectors.

I could be wrong in that assumption. is there any way to really test the ignition switch? it has never failed me in normal use.
 
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I went back and re read from the beginning. It caught my attention that you need to completely turn the key off and then back on to start. I'm wondering if it may be something with the ignition switch. I'm not suggesting throwing more parts at it, but just an idea to think about.
That also could mean the computer needed to be reset. Turning off the key turns the computer off. Nothing works if the computer locks up. You would think there would be a code set of some sort.
 

2005redkarma

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That also could mean the computer needed to be reset. Turning off the key turns the computer off. Nothing works if the computer locks up. You would think there would be a code set of some sort.
Yeah that’s what I’m thinking, that and the PCM is getting a quick flash reset at the same time.

There might be codes for a computer malfunction but i think what's more likely to happen is for the computer to throw a bunch of random codes.

When I was driving after dark last night the car died and the vehicle behind me backed off faster than normal (for out here in AZ haha) I’ve read that the PCM controls the brake light circuit so it could be the brake lights turned off and this person saw my car go completely black and backed off.

If that’s the case then I’d say PCM. But I don’t see the lights turn off with my own eyes and it didn’t die another time after that.

(I know driving with these conditions are unsafe, but I can restart the car in under 5 seconds without losing much speed)

I didn’t say it before and that’s my mistake but if I do not turn the key all the way back before attempting to crank, then it will be a crank no start condition.
 
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Yeah that’s what I’m thinking, that and the PCM is getting a quick flash reset at the same time.

There might be codes for a computer malfunction but i think what's more likely to happen is for the computer to throw a bunch of random codes.

When I was driving after dark last night the car died and the vehicle behind me backed off faster than normal (for out here in AZ haha) I’ve read that the PCM controls the brake light circuit so it could be the brake lights turned off and this person saw my car go completely black and backed off.

If that’s the case then I’d say PCM. But I don’t see the lights turn off with my own eyes and it didn’t die another time after that.

(I know driving with these conditions are unsafe, but I can restart the car in under 5 seconds without losing much speed)

I didn’t say it before and that’s my mistake but if I do not turn the key all the way back before attempting to crank, then it will be a crank no start condition.
Yes random codes is what mine has done when the battery dies. Cranking sends the volts too low and the ECU goes crazy and the dash lights up like a Christmas tree!
Have you examined your ECU under the hood? You could try unplugging it and looking at the plugs for corrosion. I would also check to see if it is getting hot. On my 2012 the ECU is on the radiator core support on the passenger side. This is not a common problem but my 1995 Aerostar ECU gets cranky sometimes and I need to turn it off and on to fix it.
 
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JimC

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Have you had the alternator tested? A bad alternator will cause lots of problems
 

2005redkarma

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Yes random codes is what mine has done when the battery dies. Cranking sends the volts too low and the ECU goes crazy and the dash lights up like a Christmas tree!
Have you examined your ECU under the hood? You could try unplugging it and looking at the plugs for corrosion. I would also check to see if it is getting hot. On my 2012 the ECU is on the radiator core support on the passenger side. This is not a common problem but my 1995 Aerostar ECU gets cranky sometimes and I need to turn it off and on to fix it.
i haven't fully examined if I'm being honest. The big plug is a little more intimidating haha. i believe my ECU is also on the passenger side. i will look and update.

Have you had the alternator tested? A bad alternator will cause lots of problems
i have not. ill bring my meter home from work tomorrow and 'Chris-Fix-It'
 

2005redkarma

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forced her to stay on via cruise control and a new symptom appeared! a HOT AND STEAMY symptom!

She left me stranded on the 303 overheated. Thankfully the temp didn’t get TOO high to cause an eruption.

I’ll be dropping her off at a ford dealership in the morning which was already planned before the overheating.

So was my problem an overheating problem the whole time? The gauge has nas never gone past the middle until I forced it to stay running.
 

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