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Pro Dyno Racing
I have had good luck with the back soft so it will transfer weight.
I've been shifting at 6500 rpm for 3 yearsAsk MATT D about the potential high rev...Ha Ha. He banged gears at almost 7k rpm on that 4.6 3v for years. However, it is almost common knowledge that the 4.6 3v can handle ~6500rpms on occasion. But remember you don't need to shift at that rpm in your car as setup because it falls off on power after~6200rpms. The aim is to boost the power bnd by 500 rpms by setting the rev limiter higher so you will NOT lose power at your shift points. When you get the CMDP's in then the car will go higher rpms with ~ 10rwhp with them as well as a set of Long Tubes, ~20rwhp and rwtq. These will help power above 6krpms for a tenth or two and 2mph at trap.
^^^^^ Definately a good idea!!!Upper CA is all part of the package. If you get an adjustable one, you can adjust the pinion angle also.
Did you also get the BMR lower control arm relocators???? They really work well!Some great information in this thread and I love reading about others' combinations.
My current problem is I went with a lowering spring and my 60' suffered majorly due to no weight transfer. I was cutting 1.67-1.68s on STOCK suspensionbut then lowered the car on some K springs (1.5" drop" and am unable to cut better than a 1.78-1.8x now due to it.
I now have BMR lower control arms and purchased some cobra jet springs. My main question is; will I benefit from swapping the rear springs to the cobra jet springs and leaving the fronts as k-springs? I am able to swap the rears in the driveway however the front springs would require air tools and yet another alignment which I am wanting to avoid for now.
I just installed my UMI upper and lower control arms with the relocation brackets. Pinion angle at -2. Did anyone else notice an increase in noise from the rear end when doing this. Figure guys on this thread would know best.
Which version of the arms did you use? Roto joint? Full urethane?
Urethane