I'm assuming you have the stock rubber mushrooms in? Yeah, they can get kinda glued to the block from corrosion and other crud.
Long post but trying to address both parts.
First, don't raise the engine too much. Like, 1 inch max (I usually go just about 1/4in). You really don't need anything more than a thin gap, and you don't want to put stress on your bell housing.
Second, leave the motor bolts in and focus on just getting the isolators out first. Make sure you have all the bolts completely out. There's 2 actual bolts on the bottom of the isolator (isolator to frame) each side, and a nut on top that connects to the motor mount each side. Take them all the way out.
Lower the engine back down onto the isolators (assuming you still have the mounts attached to the engine!) then jack it back up and as you do watch and see that only the engine moves and not the whole car. If the whole car lifts, something's not right.
Is the car already up off its wheels? If not, when you raise the engine, you're effectively taking weight off the suspension and the car will lift up with several hundred pounds of force and you could pretty much lift the engine till your bell housing gives you the finger and phks off to hell.
In rare cases I have seen motor isolator tops so corroded they're essentially glued to the motor mount, but that's rarely both sides. If you think that's the case (I don't know the condition of the car) get a 2x4 and a mallet, sledge hammer or a friend's head and try to strike down on the isolator itself (not the motor mount). It really shouldn't take much to break free rust, though.
If you're sure the suspension/chassis is staying put while the engine is moving, you can lift the engine up an inch and then start going around with a pry-bar on the sides, working mainly against the k-member/frame and the isolator.
If all else fails, make sure the engine is secure and the car is secure on jack stands and then loosen the K-member bolts. There's enough thread to drop it by at least a 1/4 inch, maybe even a half, and that may help. Remember the goal is to just get a gap of any kind between the motor mount to isolator bit. Once you have that (or the isolators out even, then you can focus on the actual motor mounts themselves.
As for the mounts, there's (if my brain cells recall correctly) 3 bolts and a stud with a nut on each side. You want to make sure the bolts and nut are completely out. The stud needs to come out, too, as it's got a captive nut on it. If you're sure you got everything out, it just takes some mild foreplay violence at that point. A dead-blow hammer aimed front to back or back to front on the end of the arm, couple taps, then a couple taps up from the bottom on the end, and it should pop off. There's nothing really holding them in place (no gusset or notches) just ignorance and whatever cats are made out of.
Hope some of that helps.
And for the love of tacos take those stock isolators and give them to someone you really hate or abandon them on the side of a lonely road somewhere, and buy yourself some aftermarket replacements. I recommend either the Steeda mounts or the Prothane bullet mounts.
