Overheated now won’t start

[Drewt1047]

I have a 2010 mustang v6 with 145,000 miles. The car over heated a few weeks back. It sprayed anti freeze all over the engine compartment. I had the car towed home. I tried starting it a few days later but it would only turn over. I changed plugs and coil pack. I’m getting spark. I believe it’s not getting gas. I can hear the fuel pump engage when the key is turnt. I tried spraying starter fluid in trottle body but still nothing. What I’m I missing? Any ideas?

 

[Juice]

Compression?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Have you tried manually turning the engine at the crank with a breaker bar? If the engine severely overheated, the pistons may be partially seized inside the bores or some rod bearings may be spun on the crank.
You might also want to check the compression in all cylinders as Juice suggested.

 

[Drewt1047]

Haven’t checked compression yet. The engine spins fine on it on. The oil looks good. The anti freeze did explode everywhere under the hood of car. Was hoping maybe something electrical, before I settle on engine might be toast.

 

[wildlifeguy]

I'm guessing no compression. Overheating shouldn't necessarily cause it to spray coolant as the cap will relieve pressure at 16 psi. Probably burst a coolant hose and then kept driving unnoticed and that caused it to overheat. When it overheated, it could have warped the aluminum cylinder heads and/or blew out the head gaskets. Did you keep driving it until it shut off on its own? This was the case with the one I bought last summer. The PO had burst a heater hose and overheated it and it would crank but not start. It had almost no compression in any of the cylinders. There didn't appear to be any coolant in the oil, but there was coolant pooled in the cylinders. Maybe you got lucky and it's something electrical; check that your crank sensor is connected.

 

[Drewt1047]

Compression is low in all 6 cylinders. The passenger side was under 20 psi with the driver side showing an average of 50 in each cylinder. Time to find a replacement engine.

 

[wildlifeguy]

Good luck and don't get too stressed. I went through this buying the car in this condition. I knew that worst case, I could make my money back and learn something new in the process. I pulled a head considering replacing both and noticed the timing chain guides were broken as I had expected. I thought that if I bought a used engine, it would be similar mileage and probably also have bad timing chain guides. I found engines from around $1600-$2200. Considering that I needed to pull the engine anyways, I decided to do the repair myself. Mine didn't appear to have any bent rods, so I went with it. I found new unused complete heads on the internet for around $450 for the set. I bought a complete timing set and all seals/gaskets/bolts for a total of under $400. I had most of the tools needed. I had to buy an engine hoist, stand, and timing tool with the thought that I can probably make much of that money back by selling. It was a fun and fulfilling project and now I know the engine is in good shape. Either way you go, replace all the hoses and the expansion tank cap for good measure. I was so worried about the engine running that I decided to be cheap and wait on the hoses. I blew 2 of them a couple of months after the repair. One, I should have known better. The other looked and felt fine on the outside, but was shredded on the inside. If you decide on the repair, there is a great set of videos by an expert that goes through the entire timing set process step by step and gives all torque values. Just pay attention to the details. I didn't bother messing with the crank/pistons/cylinders other than cleaning the surface rust. It runs strong and doesn't burn any oil.

 

[Juice]

Compression is low in all 6 cylinders. The passenger side was under 20 psi with the driver side showing an average of 50 in each cylinder. Time to find a replacement engine.

Where are you located? I got a good 4.0