Rear brakes always this hard?

[Autokyrios]

The number of pistons isn't the whole factor when accounting for differences in brake feel (pedal travel). There's the size of the pistons and how much the calipers add, too. Not to mention if you change other gear like the MC. You can have a 6-piston setup that has less capacity than a 4-piston setup just because of different sized caliper setups. In the end once you bleed the system properly you should be pretty close to stock, but a faster-grabbing more efficient caliper is going to feel tighter than a generic mass-production unit. (Also don't forget that more powerful brakes will make differences in pad compounds more distinct, such as temp requirements and fade, and also don't forget to test your fluid regularly.)

 

[Windy_3V]

Ah shoot, that's a good point. I just checked and the auto stores close to me don't stock even the OEM brake lines, so it'd be a couple days. I'm inclined to replace the calipers now, then do the lines later. I'd have to bleed the brakes again, which is , but I also really don't want to drive the car with the sticking caliper more. The other day I measured the rotor temperature after a 25 minute drive, and it was 240 F (I could smell it and feel the heat too).

(Weirdly enough, after driving the next day, they were normal. I'm sure it's an intermittent thing.)

When it happened to me I could hear the brakes scraping the rotor when I would coast at slow speeds (obviously not hitting the brakes). I say you should replaced the lines while you’re at it cause one of my lines broke one day and drained all the fluid out of the system. Needless to say I got in the car soon after and my brakes hit the floor when I was backing out lol. Won’t have that problem ever again with stainless lines and I picked up the set for the rear from American Muscle for around $75 at the time. If you have an air compressor I recommend using an automatic brake bleeder but I did mine manually since I didn’t have one at the time and it’s been fine ever since. Just get a friend to pump the brakes for you

 

[Robert Larimer]

Ah shoot, that's a good point. I just checked and the auto stores close to me don't stock even the OEM brake lines, so it'd be a couple days. I'm inclined to replace the calipers now, then do the lines later. I'd have to bleed the brakes again, which is , but I also really don't want to drive the car with the sticking caliper more. The other day I measured the rotor temperature after a 25 minute drive, and it was 240 F (I could smell it and feel the heat too).

(Weirdly enough, after driving the next day, they were normal. I'm sure it's an intermittent thing.)

I had that happen to me when I replaced rotors and pads. The rear rotors got hot and smelly on my test drive. I did not line up the notches in the pad with the caliper tit. Fixed it and all is well.

 

[yardbirdsax]

I replaced the calipers over the last 2 days and bled the brakes (full flush of the old fluid), and everything feels pretty solid now. Unfortunately, one of the parking brake cables is refusing to go back in the caliper bracket. I got everything buttoned up, and I'm inclined heavily to take it to my mechanic and have him finish the job. Looking at how the parking brake gets adjusted or replaced, it's gonna be a pain and I'm running low on discretionary repair time.

 

[Autokyrios]

What's the problem exactly?
Adjusting the cable length for the parking brake is relatively easy. The rear cables are adjusted from under the car in the tunnel. There's an adjuster for the lever line accessible through the small access hole in the center console. First make sure you're not trying to attach the parking brake cables to the brakes with the lever pulled (engaged). I don't recall ever having to change the tunnel line part but I sometimes had to adjust the lever cable (let it out) and then after things were on, tighten it back up as needed.

 

[yardbirdsax]

Yep, I tried using the adjuster (the one on the lever) and it didn't make a difference. I took a video of the cable when I engaged and released the parking brake, and it didn't move (whereas the other side moved noticeably), so I think the cable is probably stuck. Looking at the how-tos of replacing that, it looks like I'd be on my back under the car for quite awhile, no?

 

[GriffX]

FYI: It is much easier to rebuild/change the caliper piston seals when the piston is not completely frozen. Then you don't need so much air pressure to get it out. Consider rebuilding them when one is harder to press in than the other in a 2-piston set-up. (I have just done this at my old Mercedes)

FYI2: If you have an old brake hose, you can cut them in half block it with hot glue and use one end as a perfect plug for the brake line.

 

[JC SSP]

I have bench rebuilt more brake calipers than I can count... but the cost of what's your time worth and ease of R&R (remove and replace) with a lifetime warranty rebuilt part from Napa or AutoZone, etc. just makes perfect sense for me...

If you have time on your side and cost conscience, then $5.00 for a caliper seal kit and the tools & knowledge to do the rebuild and your good to go...

Either way, a sticky caliper is a sign of an issue which needs to be resolved!

 

[rocknrod]

I used this method, to retract the rear caliper piston. You can buy the special tool at Harbor Freight, eBay, Amazon etc. It rotated like the old Lincoln rear calipers did. That's why trying to squeeze it doesn't work so well.

 

[JC SSP]

I rented the tool from my local Autozone. I will say that I have done them before with a c-clamp and channel locks, but you run the risk of tearing the dust boot.

 

[Autokyrios]

For the front's a clamp is fine but if you're not rotating the backs as you push them in you'll mess them up.

As for rebuilding, it's cheaper if you have the ability and know-how, but IMO I'd rather just replace them. Especially for a mass produced part still easily found. I mean, with stock calipers going for between $40-70 or whole sets for $110-220, it's not much more expensive than new pads and a lot less expensive than the results if I miss something in a rebuild. There may be a local brake shop that will take your cores for a discount, too.

I don't see much reason to spend a lot of time with the stock brakes. It's not like they're special or scarce.

 

[Juice]

The banjo bolts maybe a little longer than they should be. It will stop the piston from fully returning. Will not fit over brand new pads. Got a set of remans from autozone, and they had the wrong banjos in the package.

 

[Autokyrios]

If I recall, the stock brakes are actually a GM unit and they're used on countless other cars. Just more reason to be careful what you pick up, but the good news is if they give you the wrong hardware it's easy to get the right stuff.