A Pretty Good Week!

Dread53

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I finally got more than 2 nights in a row at home and made good use of it. Pulled the rear end out to weld up the LCA relocation brackets, install the 3.73's and build a custom breather, then set it back in to mount the watts link and adjustable rear sway bar. Moved on to the transmission to swap in the 6060 and new MGW shifter. While I was still under the car I welded in the BMR subframe connectors. Replaced my shift boot and console cover with some new pieces from Redline goods, installed my UPR billet inner door handles and wired up the traction control auto off relay. Threw in the adjustable front sway bar during the melee. All I have to finish up is the custom oil breather catch can. The car hasn't had a real bath in forever, so I'll get some photos after that happens. Of course, I'm back on the road Wednesday.....

I'll also post up some photos of the custom ramp setup I built. It puts all four wheels 9" in the air.
 

white05gt

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Sounds like you made good progress. What do you do that keeps you away from home so much? I haven't drove my car in a year due to pipelining, I was home for about a month this winter. It was long enough to tear it apart before getting called back to work.
 

Dread53

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What do you do that keeps you away from home so much?

I'm an engineer and supervise the installation of emissions retrofit equipment on the gas pipeline compressor engines. I spent the last 5 months in Clay Basin, UT working with Questar and go back this week to finish commissioning. Then I'm off to Unionville, LA for a job with Centerpoint, then Linden, NJ for a job with Spectre. That should take me through the end of November.
 

ford20

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Do you have to weld in the relocation brackets? I have seen them just bolted up before and not welded
 

Vxer1000

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Do you have to weld in the relocation brackets? I have seen them just bolted up before and not welded

You can bolt them in, but there's a chance of shearing the bolts if using slicks during a hard launch with a high power motor. Considering where those bolts are and the forces that are applied to them again and again they would probably fatigue and break over a long period of time even with a bolt-on 3V, or work themselves loose. Now, if you are running slippery street tires on the street and track, then it is probably not as much of an issue. I can't say I have first hand experience with this particular issue, but I have been a machinist for 20 years and understand mechanical forces and metal properties fairly well.
 

FR500GT

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Looking forward to seeing this "lift"! With the Saleen, you can't use the normal side skirt jack points and the front is too low/extended out to get any jack under the front without first driving up on a 2x4 haha
 

char259

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I have to agree, trying to get anything done underneath these is a real bitch, awaiting on the ramp photos, been thinking of doing something along the same lines, so curious to see yours
 

Dread53

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OK - photos! There were major T-storms in the area, so I was in the garage for most of these and the lighting sucked.

I'll start with the ramp setup. I've measured all of this out for the track and wheelbase of the car and built accordingly. This is the first step prior to drive on. Everything is located in place via 1" dowels.

DSC02521.jpg


You drive on (or back on) until you're all the way on with the rear wheel (assuming driving on) stopped where the paint can is. At that point you need to fit in the next steps of the ramps. For the Saleens, you need to be that far so the next steps will fit under the side skirts.

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Now you drive the rest of the way on, set the brake and remove all the pieces that will be in your way.

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You end up sitting on these on all 4 corners.

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I bought a bunch of other stuff while I was at the Depot, but this is probably $50 worth of material. Yes, it's kind of primitive, but it worked like a champ for all of the above work.

This is a little something I whipped up for my jack handle / lug wrench, because it's almost impossible to raise the car with the supplied wrench (Saleen only). This will attach to the front of my trunk battery box and be secured with velcro straps.

DSC02526.jpg


Here's the shot of the rear suspension, and of course I had to paint the axle while it was out. You can also see the subframe connectors. It's a VERY tight fit between the watts link and the FRPP low profile diff cover.

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Last shot. The new boot and console cover. Sides are black perforated with the remaining panels black carbon.

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Still working on the catch can, and the axle breather is a collection of Swagelok stuff I rescued from my last job. I removed the cap from the original breather and drilled a press fit for 1/4" tubing, which opens up to a section of 1/2" tubing, then back to an extended piece of 3/8" tubing with the original spring loaded cap attached. It's probably 5" tall at this point, so if this spews any fluid I've got serious issues!
 

TARZAN

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I'm curious....why not get a low profile jack and jackstands?

Kudos for getting work done though.

-Will
 

UltraKla$$ic

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Ingenious for sure!!!!!!!!!! If you did all that work by yourself, including sliding axles and transmissions around, my back would be SMOOOOOOOOOOOOOKED!!!!!!!!!!!!

I hope you had help cause I'm hurting all over just thinking about it. LOL!!!!


Most excellent work of course!:thumb:
 

Dread53

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Strictly solo boys and girls, and I'm 58.

I do have a low profile jack and stands, but the ground effects on the Saleen are low enough you can't get the jack under the car without it at least being on some boards. Also, when doing this much work, regardless of where you put the stands they end up in the way at some point.

The suspension also needs to be loaded when dong the watts link, so stands under the axle would have been a major pain.
 

UltraKla$$ic

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Strictly solo boys and girls, and I'm 58.

.

:thud: Truly inspirational! :allhail:

I guess I'm going to have to bin all my excuses if you're dragging rear axles and lifting transmissions, amongst other things, by yourself. Props to you and your car is beautiful!!!!:hi:
 

Dread53

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You need to be able to make things work with you. I built this to help install the trans. All I needed to do was find the balance point. I made one for the rear end, too. The tough part of the trans is that it won't roll under the car on the jack, so I had to slide it under and then work it up onto the jack. That took some doing!

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Of course, while trying to lift the trans I needed to use my leg on the handle while steadying and guiding the trans. I only needed the car to be about a foot higher....
 

UltraKla$$ic

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You need to be able to make things work with you. I built this to help install the trans. All I needed to do was find the balance point. I made one for the rear end, too. The tough part of the trans is that it won't roll under the car on the jack, so I had to slide it under and then work it up onto the jack. That took some doing!

Of course, while trying to lift the trans I needed to use my leg on the handle while steadying and guiding the trans. I only needed the car to be about a foot higher....

I had to do this same thing when my V6 lost it's slave cylinder. I did all the work myself so it would be done right and without scratches. I used my Sears motocycle jack to lift the tranmission up into the bay. I had my car lifted on 4 jack stands in my shop and did the work all by myself and believe me, I'm not mechanic but it's only nuts and bolts and it came out fantastic! You learn to improvise for sure.:thumb:
 

FR500GT

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I'm curious....why not get a low profile jack and jackstands?

Kudos for getting work done though.

-Will

I do have a low profile jack and stands, but the ground effects on the Saleen are low enough you can't get the jack under the car without it at least being on some boards. Also, when doing this much work, regardless of where you put the stands they end up in the way at some point.

^This
 

Dread53

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I took a break from working on the house and finished up the breather. As always, if it ain't got some bling, I can't make it sing!

I bought one of these in the polished version, then shortened it 1 1/2", moved some holes and added some synthetic stainless steel media inside to catch the vapors. Fabbed up a new bracket and a stainless drain line out the bottom with a petcock to make it easy. I just need to get some large shrink tubing to finish the ends of the braid.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=170633205804

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