Finally got the Killer Chiler Installed. there are 2 mainstream versions out there and then the custom version. Stage 1 offers minimal coolant cooling while maintaining adequate in cabin cooling. Stage 2 offers more coolant cooling and less in cabin cooling. From what Joe told me at Killer Chiller, I am the first S197 to completely bypass the in cabin A/C cooling and use the A/C solely to cool the coolant.
Before the killer chiller, I would see anywhere from 130-150ish on my IAT's at WOT on the street or strip without using ice and about 115-120 cruising around the streets. Ice is well and good for the track, but it is entirely impractical to use ice on the street. And lets face it, the less I have to do while at the track the better. If i don't have to drain fluid, add ice, then drain more fluid to add more ice, that's a good thing. Plus by running no ice, there's ZERO risk of ice blocking the outlet hose to the pump as well.
I first installed the killer chiller, leaving the heat exchanger plumbed in the system. I figured it would be better to test with the heat exchanger there in case something wasn't working or happened. I saw a decrease in temps of only 10-15 degrees at WOT and cruising on the street. It was almost as if the chiller was doing nothing. At the moment I figured i would have saw lower temps even with the heat exchanger. I knew the heat exchanger would work against efficiency, but I didn't think it would be that much. Boy was i wrong.
After a call to Joe at Killer Chiler, he convinced me to route the lines bypassing the heat exchanger completely. He also had me insulate the coolant tank in the trunk. I used Frost King Pipe Duct insulation from home depot. Actually looks halfway decent, although i still like the bare aluminum look of the tank better, this is form over function until i find something better. He also suggested I insulate the A/C and coolant lines as well. I haven't done the lines yet nor have I installed the cooling fan he provided to help airflow over the A/C condenser. Insulating the tank and bypassing the heat exchanger provided FANTASTIC results. I now see about 95-110 degree IAT Temps at cruising speed and a MAX of 105 Degrees at WOT. And that was a 90 degree, 90% humidity day. The reasoning for higher IAT's at cruise is because there is less airflow through the intake tube and it tends to heat up a bit more vs at WOT the air moves so fast it doesn't have time to heat up.
When i go WOT, my IAT's actually drop haha.
According to Joe, I should see another 10 degree drop or so by insulating the A/C and coolant lines and a few more after I install the fan on the A/C condenser. If i see the advertised drops for the lines and fan combo, that means I will have seen a MAX total drop of about 60 degrees in IAT temps at WOT (from 150 degrees to 90 degrees), an average drop in IAT's of 45 degrees (from 135 degrees to 90 degrees). When running ice i would see IAT Temps of 89 degrees on a 75 degree day and about 95 degrees on a really hot day. So the Killer chiller is like running ice at all times
Now for the info that everyone cares about. Does it sweat, does it drip on the ground, does it puddle, ect. The A/C lines sweat near the accumulator (drivers side black box near the fender and windshield) but that's about it. After driving the car for an hour to an hour and a half and then parking it and letting it run, there's nothing on the ground and very little on the A/C lines themselves. I feel once insulated, it will only be better. I would recommend this to anyone for sure!!!!!! I am damn satisfied with the kit, fit and finish.
Before the killer chiller, I would see anywhere from 130-150ish on my IAT's at WOT on the street or strip without using ice and about 115-120 cruising around the streets. Ice is well and good for the track, but it is entirely impractical to use ice on the street. And lets face it, the less I have to do while at the track the better. If i don't have to drain fluid, add ice, then drain more fluid to add more ice, that's a good thing. Plus by running no ice, there's ZERO risk of ice blocking the outlet hose to the pump as well.
I first installed the killer chiller, leaving the heat exchanger plumbed in the system. I figured it would be better to test with the heat exchanger there in case something wasn't working or happened. I saw a decrease in temps of only 10-15 degrees at WOT and cruising on the street. It was almost as if the chiller was doing nothing. At the moment I figured i would have saw lower temps even with the heat exchanger. I knew the heat exchanger would work against efficiency, but I didn't think it would be that much. Boy was i wrong.
After a call to Joe at Killer Chiler, he convinced me to route the lines bypassing the heat exchanger completely. He also had me insulate the coolant tank in the trunk. I used Frost King Pipe Duct insulation from home depot. Actually looks halfway decent, although i still like the bare aluminum look of the tank better, this is form over function until i find something better. He also suggested I insulate the A/C and coolant lines as well. I haven't done the lines yet nor have I installed the cooling fan he provided to help airflow over the A/C condenser. Insulating the tank and bypassing the heat exchanger provided FANTASTIC results. I now see about 95-110 degree IAT Temps at cruising speed and a MAX of 105 Degrees at WOT. And that was a 90 degree, 90% humidity day. The reasoning for higher IAT's at cruise is because there is less airflow through the intake tube and it tends to heat up a bit more vs at WOT the air moves so fast it doesn't have time to heat up.
When i go WOT, my IAT's actually drop haha.
According to Joe, I should see another 10 degree drop or so by insulating the A/C and coolant lines and a few more after I install the fan on the A/C condenser. If i see the advertised drops for the lines and fan combo, that means I will have seen a MAX total drop of about 60 degrees in IAT temps at WOT (from 150 degrees to 90 degrees), an average drop in IAT's of 45 degrees (from 135 degrees to 90 degrees). When running ice i would see IAT Temps of 89 degrees on a 75 degree day and about 95 degrees on a really hot day. So the Killer chiller is like running ice at all times
Now for the info that everyone cares about. Does it sweat, does it drip on the ground, does it puddle, ect. The A/C lines sweat near the accumulator (drivers side black box near the fender and windshield) but that's about it. After driving the car for an hour to an hour and a half and then parking it and letting it run, there's nothing on the ground and very little on the A/C lines themselves. I feel once insulated, it will only be better. I would recommend this to anyone for sure!!!!!! I am damn satisfied with the kit, fit and finish.