Engine Rebuild Saga Please Help me Thanks

[US-1]

Be careful. Make sure he has experience with modular cylinder heads. If you port a modular head like a pushrod head you'll screw it up.

 

[kleistang]

what would youg guys say about leaving the stock crankshaft, ill hardly think on going over 550 at the most. just thinking. thanks

 

[silverbull1tt]

I left the stock crankshaft in my build, fit my cars purpose just fine.

 

[kleistang]

what kind of power are you making on your built.
how much u think it can hold?

 

[US-1]

I've run stock two valve cast cranks to 789 rwhp. As long as you don't try to rpm them over 7000 you are ok.

 

[A John In NJ]

HOw much was the labor for the Pistons and Rods?



-John

 

[kleistang]

I've run stock two valve cast cranks to 789 rwhp. As long as you don't try to rpm them over 7000 you are ok.

i think the most i can do would be 6800rpm, plus i dont see myself trying to go over 600 unless i built the tranny. as i said it would hardly sometimes be driven on the street sometimes and would hit the track a couple times.

 

[US-1]

Shift it at 6500 and it will be fine.

 

[kleistang]

Guysssssssssssssssss i need your help now. i have read so much this past 2 months im confused already. please guide me . i'm ready to buy the rotating assembly but i have seen so many of them and so many diffrent setups that im freaking out and i dont know what to do. i still have my plans on going turbo, heads are ported already. compcams stage3 from breenspeeed will be coming as well. The big Questions are. Where should i get the parts from? which parts would u recomend and What about a stroker kit ? until now i have my eyes on stock stroke and 5.0 strokers from this sites.

http://www.haneymotorsport.com/HMS 4.6 Rotating Kits.htm
they have the cheapest price i have seen until now.

http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/2005-08_mustang_engines.shtml
Little more expensive, i noticed they advertise a 5.2l stroker i have not seen anyone using it yet. any toughts about it ? the rest looks similar to haneys kit.

http://www.steeda.com/products/eagle_forged_balanced_reciprocating_masses.php
the eagle kit looks lovely. i have looked the stock and stroker. seems that steed is just pricing it up rather than lowering it xD. its cheaper at summit

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
mod 900 and 950 for the price i think the eagle is better and its fully balanced already. please help.

i had Dss on the list as livernois but i can figure out dss's site and seems like livernois doesnt has the kits for 197s online anymore.

Thanks guys

 

[kleistang]

i'll mail u guys a beer for an answer !.

 

[Darth Stang]

HOw much was the labor for the Pistons and Rods?



-John

Just wrote up something similar on another board...

Pulling an engine and rebuilding it is EXPENSIVE. For all who are thinking about it, be prepared to spend about $7K to remove the engine, tear down, clean it, prep it, machine it, put the forged parts in, balance it, hone the cyliders and deck, replace all gaskets, and then reinstall and test is a time consuming and costly process. My understanding is that even buying a swap block is still roughly the same cost.

You cannot just open the bottom end and replace the rods and pistons, anytime you open the bottom end you have to re-machine and rebalance, and you also have to drain and replace all fluids and gaskets and seals. Also, remember, a lot of bolts and fasteners are onetime use, so you have to replace those. All of this is why everyone says build it right the first time.

Kliestang, I've read your post and I'm still not getting the feeling of what you are looking for? Do you want to hit 700HP? For the parts, go with the seller that provides the brand name you want. I've seen many times on these forums that the rods are all made at the same place, so as long as they are H-beams with ARP2000 heads, they will be fine, and since you honestly aren't going to push 1200HP, you really shouldn't get too hung up about them. Almost all of the forged cranks appear to be Kellogg cranks, so they're all good. The real thing to worry about is getting good forged pistons and rings, with the right compression ratio. If you are racking your brain about this, I suggest you go with the most reputable company that specializes in just engines and rotating assemblies...Livernois...or talk to Larry_H on Modfords or this forum.

Call Livernois and ask about their 3V rotating assemblies, I understand they balance their kits down to 1/25 gram. The real key for you seems to be get a solid performing kit, and keep the cost down. A $2000 assembly will probably more than exceed anything you plan to do to it. Now you need to think about the other stuff you'll have to get...fuel system, driveshaft, upgraded tranny and stall converter, gears, input shaft, suspension mods, gauges, dyno tune, ect.

Last thought, make sure you have a good builder put your stuff together. If you haven't done an engine before, get help!

-Darth

 

[donnyonee]

maybe try your spell check

 

[kleistang]

I'm looking for at least 500 on a single turbo set up. by now ill have to finish the car and run it n/a for about 6 months because i some things has come up and i cant finish doing everything at the same time. So i am trying to get the most power out of the engine. But since i know I'm a regular guy like every other in this forum, ill get to a point where i want more power.. i want to do it right so i don't have to bother with the engine. i know that there would be a lot more to be changed and add.

I'll change the converter, drive shaft, and gears. Most of the suspension mods are done. i have a set of M/T drag radials for traction. I have to shops that would work on my car and it would be either steeda or Lujan motor sport.

Thanks for remembering me, I'm not planning on keeping any bolts, every bolt will be new. (arp) i already have all the new gaskets. I'm just waiting to decide what I'll be buying so i can take it to the machine shop to get it ready. I really want to put it together myself. obviously with some guidance.

My friend got the machine shop guy to let him built his 5.0 at the shop himself so if he has any inconvenience the expert will be next to him. the guy is really cool with us and he said he would help me on anything i need. also my Ase teacher said he would help me.

For now i think I'll just go with the Haneymotorsport Stock stroke kit, that way i can safe a little more money and get other parts. (any thoughts about the Probe pistons) Is there anything else you guys think i should definitely change or get.




i know my spelling is terrible, as i said before English is my third language. I'm sorry for making you guys read my boring threads

 

[05mustang_TT_charged]

i would get any of the kits listed in the post above. they are basiclly the same. most of it is imported and just sold to different companies to put there name on. for your goals i would buy a stock displacement assembly and bring the block and rotating assembly to the machine shop, since they will need it there to prep the block anyways

 

[US-1]

Out of that list........MMR.

 

[kleistang]

Anyway, guys thanks for your help this is what i end up buying.

Custom Livernois Forged Steel Stroker Crankshaft

Livernois Exclusive Mahle 3-Valve Forged Pistons

Mahle Rings, Locks, and Wrist Pins

Livernois Exclusive Manley H-Beam Rods w/ ARP 2000 Bolts

Clevite Tri-Armor Coated Bearings

add a tci street fighter converter.


willi at Makperformance helped me. what do you think?

i'll keep the updates and post some pics as it comes.

 

[ZmanM3]

I think that we are going to need to see pictures of this build.

 

[kleistang]

i'll be more than happy to post them as soon as i get the kit on tuesday. i'll clean up the garage and the car this weeks and take some picks. im so exited about putting the car back together.

 

[kleistang]

i'll be more than happy to post them as soon as i get the kit on tuesday. i'll clean up the garage and the car this weeks and take some pics. im so exited about putting the car back together.

 

[kleistang]

I picked up some parts today.