lwarrior1016
Member
They won’t, and I apologize, the thread got a little off track there.
Machined surfaces. It’s a controlled leak just like a transmission valve body that doesn’t use gaskets.
At 9:35. Explains that it doesn’t have excessive bleed off. Plastic OEM tensioner with fel-pro gasket seems to be the ticket. How does iron tensioner does not bleed off without any gaskets….
he basically said if the oem tensioner has a torn gasket it won't cause a problem except noise on a cold start or did i misunderstand that?
At 9:35. Explains that it doesn’t have excessive bleed off. Plastic OEM tensioner with fel-pro gasket seems to be the ticket. How does iron tensioner does not bleed off without any gaskets….
That's how I heard it. I don't quite agree with that assessment, but he's entitled to his opinion. I wish he would have backed it with the facts that brought him to that opinion.he basically said if the oem tensioner has a torn gasket it won't cause a problem except noise on a cold start or did i misunderstand that?
You should consider the condition of the rest of the engine before declaring him wrong. If your loosing oil pressure through the cam bearings and phasers and a little more than normal through the rod and main bearings, all due to high milage; loosing the seals on the tensioners would probably show up more than on a tight engine. Case in point. When I blew the seals out of my stock tensioners I still had 15 psi on my gauge at 800 rpm idle, hot with 5-30 Mobile 1. I did not know the seals were blown until I found then when changing cams.I think it all depends, mine wasnt just a tear, it was blown out. Also he is definitely wrong cause its oil pressure behind that tensioner. If more oil is pushed thru than supposed too, you lose oil pressure. Then hiw bad seal break is, and if its 1 tensioner or both. It can greatly affect pressure
Dino, what is typ oil pressure, with eng at normal temp...and say ur right foot into it, and 3000-6000 rpm ?I think this discussion has reinforced the need to install an aftermarket electrical oil pressure gauge in our cars. The OEM idiot gauge just doesn't give you any early warning of a problem with the oiling system.
Anything below ~25psi hot idle is insufficient to maintain proper VCT function and should raise a red flag. There could be any one or more possible causes, and a proper oil pressure gauge can help to narrow them down.
I have aftermarket oil pressure/temp gauges and typically running 65 - 70 lbs at anything above idle when warm. Warm idle is about ~30 lbs. I don't see any change on the high end when I put my foot in it.Dino, what is typ oil pressure, with eng at normal temp...and say ur right foot into it, and 3000-6000 rpm ?
Dino, what is typ oil pressure, with eng at normal temp...and say ur right foot into it, and 3000-6000 rpm ?
That's less than half what i see at idle on a 60k mile motor, 50k all supercharged mileage. It's never been less than 30psi at a hot idle. If i lose half my pressure from blown tensioners that seems significant. What was your pressure at full throttle?You should consider the condition of the rest of the engine before declaring him wrong. If your loosing oil pressure through the cam bearings and phasers and a little more than normal through the rod and main bearings, all due to high milage; loosing the seals on the tensioners would probably show up more than on a tight engine. Case in point. When I blew the seals out of my stock tensioners I still had 15 psi on my gauge at 800 rpm idle, hot with 5-30 Mobile 1. I did not know the seals were blown until I found then when changing cams.
Should be seeing over 70psi. i get 75-80 above 3k. 70 is straight up on this gauge.Dino, what is typ oil pressure, with eng at normal temp...and say ur right foot into it, and 3000-6000 rpm ?