Started a diy Paxton air to air intercooler

[stkjock]

looking good Bruce - this is tech worthy - moved

 

[BruceH]

Thanks for that Dave.

A few more updates. Most of it is completed, it should be finished tomorrow.

I worked the install from both sides with tubes that fit. Eventually there is a gap that requires a custom (hacked) tube. This is the gap between the supercharger and intercooler.

One cut on a pre bent tube did the trick. After cutting and deburring the cut end was flared with a muffler tool. It's not as pretty as the store bought ridge but does the trick.

Views from the bottom and top. Clearance is tight.

The throttle body coupler is a 4.5" to 3.5" 90 degree reducer. A 3.5" joiner tube and 3.5" to 3" reducer complete the assembly.

The straight portion of tube left over from the previous hacking was cut one more time and used with two 90 degree couplers to join the gap from intercooler to tb.

This is how it sits tonight in mock up stage. I need to decide where to put the bypass fitting and iat sensor. Either I'll fit them in the silicone with a brass plate backing or the originally supplied tb discharge will be hacked and inserted into the silicone coupler for mounting the sensor and fitting.

 

[lito]

4.5" isn't a little loose?

Think your bypass location for the future if you ever decide to go BT. pffft pffffffffffft, lol.

 

[BruceH]

4.5" isn't a little loose?

Think your bypass location for the future if you ever decide to go BT. pffft pffffffffffft, lol.

It's the same size as the coupler Paxton supplied.

Manuel, I just want to be done with the car, no more after this. Really. I mean it this time. I think. Maybe just a little bump but then I'll stop.

 

[lito]

Manuel, I just want to be done with the car, no more after this. Really. I mean it this time. I think. Maybe just a little bump but then I'll stop.

lol, print and frame that, lol.

I understand you completely, I want to burn my car, I will take everything appart this month because of a faulty livernois stage 3 heads with shitty guides and said to myself that if this time it does not come out as expected, demod mode will be on and for sale it goes.

 

[TheKurgan]

I'd put them in the discharge tube. You can always fill those up with weld in case you go BOV. And good job getting the down pipe to line up with the SC AND getting it to fit between the oil filter and sway bar. I could never get mine to line up so had to relocate the oil filter.

 

[BruceH]

I'd put them in the discharge tube. You can always fill those up with weld in case you go BOV. And good job getting the down pipe to line up with the SC AND getting it to fit between the oil filter and sway bar. I could never get mine to line up so had to relocate the oil filter.

I still may end up doing that. Changing the thing is going to be a messy pia.

The project is in the home stretch now. Used fiber washers, compression gaskets, and snap rings to mount the bypass fitting and iat sensor. Waiting for the rtv to set up now. Then the rest of it goes together followed by a test run. After a successful test drive I'll figure out the best way to hard clamp in a few locations for more support. The test run will just have temporary clamps (panduits aka zip ties).

 

[TexasBlownV8]

I like your technique of flaring out the cut pipe to form a 'lip'. Previously I just had 'tits' welded on the cut ends.

IMO such a air/air setup is THE way to do it with an intercooler. Looking good!

 

[BruceH]

Finished. Took it for a 30 mile drive in 57 degree ambient temp. Highway speeds saw high 60's even with me getting into boost wherever possible. In town driving saw high 70's. It hit 84 after I backed into the garage.

It works, I think about 1 lb of boost was lost but it's hard to tell without getting it on a dyno. I'll be able to make up for that with a leaner a/f and more timing now that I don't have to keep it extra safe.

I'll be spending the winter cleaning up the engine bay, fabbing some solid hard point mounting brackets, and creating more room for all the hoses and tubing. It's pretty cluttered right now.

I'll end with a parts list.

Cx racing http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...&Product_Code=IC0022-KIT300-SET&Category_Code= It was $206 shipped on ebay. Left over parts were 2 silicone couplers, one 75 degree tube, and two 90 degree tubes.

I had to add two 90 degree silicone couplers, a 4.5" to 3.5" 90 degree silicone reducer, 3.5" joining tube, two 3" joining tubes, two 3.5" t-bolt clamps, a 3.5" to 3" silicone reducer, and two 3" tbolt clamps. These parts were purchased from www.siliconeintakes.com

Even with the left over parts I have less than $350 into this. If I would of known exactly what to buy before hand I think it could of been done for around $275.

If I was starting over I'd go with 2.75" tubing due to the tight clearances. I may still run 2.75" on the ic to tb side.

 

[JeremyH]

Should have grabbed a 4.5" t-bolt from silicone intakes as well for that throttle body connection. It may give ya trouble.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

^^ I blew the worm gear clamp off the first time at the track while doing the burnout.

 

[one eyed willy]

looks good!

 

[fdjizm]

Good job bro, I love DIY stuff!

 

[BruceH]

Should have grabbed a 4.5" t-bolt from silicone intakes as well for that throttle body connection. It may give ya trouble.

^^ I blew the worm gear clamp off the first time at the track while doing the burnout.

Noted.

looks good!

Good job bro, I love DIY stuff!

Thanks.

 

[19COBRA93]

Looks really good.

 

[HEMI LOL]

Looks great Bruce. Nice work as always.

 

[Marc s]

Nice job Bruce. Let me know when you need some dyno time.

 

[BruceH]

Nice job Bruce. Let me know when you need some dyno time.

I will be getting ahold of you on that. The maf xfer is a little different now. I just gathered as much data as I could on the highway but I really need the dyno to verify the higher cells.

 

[05stroker]

Looks good! Napa can help with that 4.5 t-bolt clamp as well.

 

[Doug M]

Great job!!! Congrats..