Suspension help. Ordering a 2011 and need advice.

[Towelly]

Hello all! I have decided to trade my 2006 GT in on a 2011 GT as soon as I get my truck paid off. Which is soon. I plan on primarily using the car for a DD in the summer on nice days and autocross toy on the weekends with a mixed amount of Roadcoarse and Drag racing... I get around.. I know you can't really have a ideal setup for all three of those things but I have done some research and have a idea of where to start. I am open to any advice (please!) but I was planning the following;

Either:
A. FRPP Handling Package w/ Front/Rear Sways, Shocks,Struts and Springs. With Steeda PHB and PHB brace.

or

B. Koni "Yellows", Steeda Sport Springs, Steeda LCA's, Steeda PHB and PHB Brace.

The price is fairly close and I've heard the 2011 have a fairly massive OEM rear sway bar. So I'm not sure I "need" sways. I plan on making it to 8 Autocross events next season as well as a couple dozen trips to the strip and a few trips to Iowa Speedway in Newton for a "roadcoarse" event or two. Keep in mind I love going to the drag strip, but my main focus is autocross and roadcoarse. I plan on ordering the car fairly stripped with 6 speed manual, 3.73 gears and the Brembo package.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

Definitely go with Option B

 

[Towelly]

Definitely go with Option B

I was thinking the same thing. I think it will be a better base for future mod's. I have never used the "yellows" before, but I understand they are lightyears ahead of the FRPP struts. Would the Steeda Sports be too stiff to DD the car though? I will be puting lots of miles on the car and I don't want to be getting REALLY beat up. I'm willing to sacrifice some ride quality, but not all of it.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

Would the Steeda Sports be too stiff to DD the car though? I will be puting lots of miles on the car and I don't want to be getting REALLY beat up. I'm willing to sacrifice some ride quality, but not all of it.

I daily drive the Mustang GT in my signature below and have the Vogtland 1.2" springs which are the same as the Steeda Sports. They are stiffer than stock, but definitely not too stiff for a daily driver. You'll like the difference on the street and road courses. Combined with the Koni Sport "Yellow" shocks/struts - its an awesome combination.

 

[Towelly]

I daily drive the Mustang GT in my signature below and have the Vogtland 1.2" springs which are the same as the Steeda Sports. They are stiffer than stock, but definitely not too stiff for a daily driver. You'll like the difference on the street and road courses. Combined with the Koni Sport "Yellow" shocks/struts - its an awesome combination.

Good deal. Yet another thing to look forward to for spring! Gah.. I can't wait!

 

[Towelly]

One more quick question. I heard a Rumor that the 1995 17x9 Cobra R wheels may actually fit over the Brembo's. Is this true? If so I could save a easy $400 in rubber! I plan on having a second set of rims/tires for the track and keeping the 19" "Brembo" pack wheels as the DD wheels. I think they look awesome.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

One more quick question. I heard a Rumor that the 1995 17x9 Cobra R wheels may actually fit over the Brembo's. Is this true? If so I could save a easy $400 in rubber! I plan on having a second set of rims/tires for the track and keeping the 19" "Brembo" pack wheels as the DD wheels. I think they look awesome.

You can do much better than the Cobra R wheels for your '11 GT. Contact Mike at Tousley Ford and order a set of 18x9.5" 2011 GT500 wheels for only $138 each, and run 275/35-18 (or 275/40-18) tires. I use the GT500 wheels that were designed to clear the Brembo's and other BBKs - they're not the lightest wheel out there, but I seem to go fast enough.

 

[Towelly]

Good deal! Only thing that sucks with the 18's is that they are almost exactly $100 more per tire for the 17" version. For NT01's that is.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

Good deal! Only thing that sucks with the 18's is that they are almost exactly $100 more per tire for the 17" version. For NT01's that is.

Compare the total diameter of your stock tires to the tire profile you'll need with a 17" wheel to achieve a similar diameter. Here's a tire calculator. IMHO, you don't want to run an aspect ratio of more than a 40 on a road course. If you're looking for slicks, contact Dean Martin at Rehagen Racing for a set of Hoosier scrubs (approx. $75 each for 275/35-18).

 

[Towelly]

I was thinking of sticking with the 275/40/17. I know the tire would be shorter than factory, but would that be a detriment?

275/40/17's - http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/tires/nitto/product/submitProductSize.do?pc=40294&typ=Passenger%2FPerformance&tmn=NT-01

275/40/18 - http://www.discounttiredirect.com/d...?pc=40361&tmn=NT-01&typ=Passenger/Performance

I guess its only about $50 difference per tire, but that still adds up to $200 worth of savings by going with the 17's. Would that short of a tire do anything but through my speedo off a bit?

 

[Chris B.]

Definitely go with Option B

I agree.

 

[Towelly]

I think I am beginning to agree with you both Chris. Already have some money saved up for it too. Just have to wait till my truck is paid off. The only reason I don't pay it off even more early is so I can get a extra bump or two in my credit score.

 

[Sam Strano]

I was thinking the same thing. I think it will be a better base for future mod's. I have never used the "yellows" before, but I understand they are lightyears ahead of the FRPP struts. Would the Steeda Sports be too stiff to DD the car though? I will be puting lots of miles on the car and I don't want to be getting REALLY beat up. I'm willing to sacrifice some ride quality, but not all of it.

Any Koni is way better than the FRPP dampers... the STR.T's are better too. It's funny you worry about the Steeda springs being too stiff for a daily driver, the FRPP sprigns are the ones that ride worse (and they are stiffer too).

 

[Sam Strano]

One more quick question. I heard a Rumor that the 1995 17x9 Cobra R wheels may actually fit over the Brembo's. Is this true? If so I could save a easy $400 in rubber! I plan on having a second set of rims/tires for the track and keeping the 19" "Brembo" pack wheels as the DD wheels. I think they look awesome.

I can't say if that's true... I'd highly doubt it, the brake rotors themselves are 14" OD, not counting the fact the calipers extend from that a bit and that a 17" wheel is where the tire mounts (and they have metal inboard of that).

I guess it's possible, I wouldn't hand my hat on that.

 

[Rubrignitz]

OPTION B - delete panhard/brace, add watts link (steeda or fays2). Add lighter wheels, better tires when you can swing it. That will be all you need to turn the car into a handling machine.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

OPTION B - delete panhard/brace, add watts link (steeda or fays2). Add lighter wheels, better tires when you can swing it. That will be all you need to turn the car into a handling machine.

+1 I deleted the panhard bar and installed the Fays2 Watts Link! This upgrade along with the other mods, made my GT an awesome handling machine! <and this is coming from a Corvette driver>

 

[Towelly]

Any Koni is way better than the FRPP dampers... the STR.T's are better too. It's funny you worry about the Steeda springs being too stiff for a daily driver, the FRPP sprigns are the ones that ride worse (and they are stiffer too).

I didn't know that! Thanks!

I can't say if that's true... I'd highly doubt it, the brake rotors themselves are 14" OD, not counting the fact the calipers extend from that a bit and that a 17" wheel is where the tire mounts (and they have metal inboard of that).

I guess it's possible, I wouldn't hand my hat on that.

You aren't the first person that I have heard this from so I'll probably just bite the bullet and get 18's that I know will fit for sure. $200 isn't a great deal of money as long as I get a entire season out of a set.

 

[Towelly]

OPTION B - delete panhard/brace, add watts link (steeda or fays2). Add lighter wheels, better tires when you can swing it. That will be all you need to turn the car into a handling machine.

+1 I deleted the panhard bar and installed the Fays2 Watts Link! This upgrade along with the other mods, made my GT an awesome handling machine! <and this is coming from a Corvette driver>

I've heard this before as well. But will this put me into a class I have no chance competing in? Remember I'm a newb to a powerful RWD car in autocross.... The last time I autocrossed consistently was about 8 years ago in a WRX.

Edit: On second thought. I think I'm going to stick with the PHB setup. At least, for now. I want to push myself to the limit with the "Option B" setup on stock tires. Then on R-compounds as soon as I can afford them. Not just because they are stickier, but because I want a separate set of track wheels/tires so I don't tare the stockers up to bad.

 

[Rubrignitz]

Oh, yes if you plan to autox the car stick with your stock panhard. Unless your rear axle is way out of alignment (which I doubt it will be with minor lowering ala steeda sports) save your money on an aftermarket panhard bar.

I don't think you can even mess with your rear swaybar for that matter.

 

[*JZ*]

B. Koni "Yellows", Roush Extreme Springs, Blow By Racing Billet LCA's, Steeda PHB and PHB Brace.

Fixed it for you.