turbo guys in for feedback

weather man

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Hey guys

Been kicking around some idea's for the next upgrade. These 3 are in the running.

Supercharger...Decided on the Paxton 2200SL

N/A...kicking around a couple of 5.8 options.

Turbo...Thought I had eliminated turbo, but the COMP oil-less head unit is still pulling my interest.

Which leads to my question. I have been looking at the head unit below, and wonder if operating it at 600HP on the street would be to far below its operating range. I might get crazy some day and want to turn it up some.

CT43-6465

ct43.png

ct43back.png


Specs:

Compressor Wheel:
Aerospace aluminum material
64mm inducer
Turbine Wheel:
713C inconel material
65mm exducer
A/R Options:
.58 T4 divided 3", 3.5", or 4" V band
.68 T4 undivided 3", 3.5, or 4" V band
.70 T4 divided 3", 3.5", or 4" V band
.81 T4 undivided 3", 3.5", or 4" V band
.84 T4 divided 3", 3.5", or 4" V band
.96 T4 undivided 3", 3.5", or 4" V band
1.15 T4 divided 3", 3.5", or 4" V band
1.32 T4 divided 3", 3.5", or 4" V band

Product: CT43-6465

  • Part Number:
  • 436465-1X (TRIPLEX CERAMIC Bearings)
    Available Options
  • Oil only
  • Oil/Water
  • Water only (Oil-less)
Description:
CT43 Turbocharger with a CT64 Billet Compressor wheel, HE65 Turbine wheel. Perfect for 2.0 to 7.0 liter engines with power levels up to 840 HP.
Why choose Triplex Ceramic™ CT3B Technology

Light weight turbo.
Rebuildable.
Rapid rotor acceleration.
99% mechanical efficiency.
Engineered to outperform competition.
Manufactured with aluminum components.
Bearing service life is two to five times longer.
1 Year limited warranty.
The Triplex Ceramic ball bearing technology results in several important performance improvements compared to a conventional sleeve bearing systems. One important advantage is that the Triplex Ceramic can carry both axial and radial loads so that the need for a conventional thrust bearing is eliminated. The power loss attributed to a conventional thrust bearing is proportional to the fourth power of the radius and can amount to several horsepower at the high speeds at which turbochargers operate. The Triplex Ceramic is capable of carrying both high thrust loads and radial loads at the same time and usually absorb only fractions of a HP due to the anti friction characteristics.
The Triplex Ceramic Ceramic balls are also 60% lighter than steel balls and operate with lower vibration levels. Since centrifugal forces are significantly reduced at high speeds, their service life is two to five times longer. There is less heat build-up in the ceramic bearings during operation and they can reach operational speed up to 50% higher than steel ball bearings. These favorable mechanical characteristics of the ceramic ball bearings make them an ideal choice for turbocharger bearing systems that run at high operating speeds and are subjected to high exhaust gas temperatures.
 

Greg Hazlett

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If you go FI the HR cams are not good at all for FI so they would need to go.

With the 410 gears they are not good for a turbo but relatively easy/cheap to swap.

I don't see that you have LT's which would not work on a turbo so that it good.

If I had it all to over again I would do the oil less turbo.

With your heads/intake either would work well but my recommendation would be for the turbo.
 

weather man

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If you go FI the HR cams are not good at all for FI so they would need to go.

With the 410 gears they are not good for a turbo but relatively easy/cheap to swap.

I don't see that you have LT's which would not work on a turbo so that it good.

If I had it all to over again I would do the oil less turbo.

With your heads/intake either would work well but my recommendation would be for the turbo.

Yeah, I would drop the Lunati turbo cams in with a spring upgrade.. I've got BBK ceramic shorties on now and JBA longtubes sitting in my shed :)
 

JoshK

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With that turbo being a 64, I wouldn't worry to much about having too much turbo for 600hp. IMHO, I would maybe look at a larger turbo, especially if you are wanting more down the road. You already have the built engine.

On the turbo vs. centri topic, I have a Vortech on my 2v and went turbo with this car. My opinion is I won't be going back to a centri ever again.
 

Greg Hazlett

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Yeah, I would drop the Lunati turbo cams in with a spring upgrade.. I've got BBK ceramic shorties on now and JBA longtubes sitting in my shed :)

Those shorties will work well with the turbo and you can sell the LT's!:thumb2:
 

Greg Hazlett

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With that turbo being a 64, I wouldn't worry to much about having too much turbo for 600hp. IMHO, I would maybe look at a larger turbo, especially if you are wanting more down the road. You already have the built engine.

On the turbo vs. centri topic, I have a Vortech on my 2v and went turbo with this car. My opinion is I won't be going back to a centri ever again.


I have had a PD on the 03 Cobra and a Vortech on my 2v and present; I prefer the centri over the PD blowers as the power is easier on parts and to control; I have never had a turbo but after assissting on Luke's and Jeremy's I would do the turbo if I had it all to over again esp with the advance they have made....no worry about belts, no worry about oil, etc.

With the YSI I am similar to a turbo as it takes rpm's to get it moving and I come out on all motor.
 
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JoshK

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Not hating on the centris, just like the way the power comes in soon with the turbo. Especially with the new turbo technology, as you said, I can make boost almost instantly in any gear with my "old" journal bearing billet wheel turbo.
 

retfr8flyr

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Weatherman, get with Jeremy and he can help you decide on the best size turbo as well as set you up with a good kit. IMHO oil-less turbo is the only way to go. They are just great, no oil worries and no belt worries. What could be better?


Earl
 

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I can't provide any first-hand experience at this point, but I purchased a Comp oil-less TCBB turbo from Jeremy for my build. He was MORE than helpful as I was doing my research. I don't think you could go wrong with a similar setup, and the price he can get is unreal.
 

weather man

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Weatherman, get with Jeremy and he can help you decide on the best size turbo as well as set you up with a good kit. IMHO oil-less turbo is the only way to go. They are just great, no oil worries and no belt worries. What could be better?


Earl

No turbo plumbing leaks :)

Jeremy has been great providing technical info on fuel and turbo systems. I also think he does a great job supporting his product. Unfortunately, I personally like the pipe routing of the Zimmerfab system better than the S&H system. The under the a arm routing just bugs me, even though people run without scraping.
 

JoshK

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I really like the Zimmers routing too, and I did think about switching to theirs. I just don't like the 2.5" up-pipe. I am sure the 2.5" up-pipe is big enough on a stock shortblock car, but I don't want to be limited by that on my built engine.
 

weather man

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I really like the Zimmers routing too, and I did think about switching to theirs. I just don't like the 2.5" up-pipe. I am sure the 2.5" up-pipe is big enough on a stock shortblock car, but I don't want to be limited by that on my built engine.

Maybe Zimmerfab can address any practical limitation that would impose on HP. Guys?
 

JeremyH

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I have the zimmers hotside on my car now that I'm testing out as we are considering making it an option in our kits for the superlow guys. But like fuel said I would only reccomend it for guys wanting 500rwhp or less on the stock block. Above 12psi and 550rwhp, hp/tq started dropping off around 5600 due to backpressure. Which kept me from getting the power I wanted. My previous hotside side made more power at less boost revving to 7k rpms no bp issues which is a full 3" up pipe. Theres just not room to get that size up pipe going over the steering rack with out quite a bit of work.
 

weather man

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I have the zimmers hotside on my car now that I'm testing out as we are considering making it an option in our kits for the superlow guys. But like fuel said I would only reccomend it for guys wanting 500rwhp or less on the stock block. Above 12psi and 550rwhp, hp/tq started dropping off around 5600 due to backpressure. Which kept me from getting the power I wanted. My previous hotside side made more power at less boost revving to 7k rpms no bp issues which is a full 3" up pipe. Theres just not room to get that size up pipe going over the steering rack with out quite a bit of work.

What is your opinion of the CT-43 based on my requirements?
 

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