Chad123
Junior Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2019
- Posts
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
Hello, all. New here and really never have started a thread anywhere, so please forgive my ignorance in the format of my issue.
I have 07 gt mustang 4.6 3v. Last year I had the typical overheating issue where the fan resistor in the fan shroud was getting hot at the pigtail and scorching the inside connectors. I replaced the pigtail and all was good for about a year. This has recently happened again where I am sitting at a light and radiator starts spewing out fluid. the fan isn't coming on and all relays are good. I have tested them. High and low speed. The current draw from my fan when hooked to straight power is good and approx 22amps. The BEC (fuse relay box) has the power and ground side pins are also scorched this time around.
So the issue isn't the fan drawing too much current as this is a 40amp circuit. My big question is I want a complete work around relay circuit to bypass the wiring and the faulty BEC issue of this design. I have already wired a new 40amp relay and 30 amp circuit breaker. However, my understanding was I wanted to remove the CHT sensor in the head and install a new one and hardwire a sending unit to the new installed relay and all new 10 gauge wiring.
I want the fan to come on with the new sending unit at 195 and off at 185. I have done tons of research and looked over all the forums and I come to the conclusion that if I remove the CHT sensor this will cause irregular voltage to the PCM and cause issues across the entire system.
I want to install a new sending unit to engage the fan and need to know the best place to install a new sending unit since there are no other pre tapped places on the 4.6. Keep in mind I have also ordered a new Water temp gauge and will need another place to install a secondary sending unit for my new gauge cluster. PICs are my actual photos of recent issues.
I am aware of the other options for installing a sending unit in the upper radiator hose and or tap a 1/8 NPT into my water neck. I've heard doing this I will have a intermittent reading as the stat doesn't open and allow coolant threw until temp is at the 180 and opens the stat. However, if my stat opens at 180 when it needs to then my future install of a 185 sending unit on at 195 and off at 185 wouldn't this keep the engine in check due to coolant consistantly circulating and the fan pulling cool air thru when temp goes above the open stat temp?
I have 07 gt mustang 4.6 3v. Last year I had the typical overheating issue where the fan resistor in the fan shroud was getting hot at the pigtail and scorching the inside connectors. I replaced the pigtail and all was good for about a year. This has recently happened again where I am sitting at a light and radiator starts spewing out fluid. the fan isn't coming on and all relays are good. I have tested them. High and low speed. The current draw from my fan when hooked to straight power is good and approx 22amps. The BEC (fuse relay box) has the power and ground side pins are also scorched this time around.
So the issue isn't the fan drawing too much current as this is a 40amp circuit. My big question is I want a complete work around relay circuit to bypass the wiring and the faulty BEC issue of this design. I have already wired a new 40amp relay and 30 amp circuit breaker. However, my understanding was I wanted to remove the CHT sensor in the head and install a new one and hardwire a sending unit to the new installed relay and all new 10 gauge wiring.
I want the fan to come on with the new sending unit at 195 and off at 185. I have done tons of research and looked over all the forums and I come to the conclusion that if I remove the CHT sensor this will cause irregular voltage to the PCM and cause issues across the entire system.
I want to install a new sending unit to engage the fan and need to know the best place to install a new sending unit since there are no other pre tapped places on the 4.6. Keep in mind I have also ordered a new Water temp gauge and will need another place to install a secondary sending unit for my new gauge cluster. PICs are my actual photos of recent issues.
I am aware of the other options for installing a sending unit in the upper radiator hose and or tap a 1/8 NPT into my water neck. I've heard doing this I will have a intermittent reading as the stat doesn't open and allow coolant threw until temp is at the 180 and opens the stat. However, if my stat opens at 180 when it needs to then my future install of a 185 sending unit on at 195 and off at 185 wouldn't this keep the engine in check due to coolant consistantly circulating and the fan pulling cool air thru when temp goes above the open stat temp?
Last edited: