Let’s cover spark plugs again! Why not?

Forty61

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I know it’s been discussed, I’ve read a bunch of threads but hey, we need more threads to discuss these days right?

So I’m planning on tackling my plugs in the next week, once I get my truck back. I have a plan in mind but I’d love some more consensus on it.. I’ll list out my plan and questions below and see what all you pros think.

1) Crack plugs 1/8-1/4 turn by hand.
2) Soak overnight.. thoughts on what to soak it with? ATF/Acetone mix?
3) Heat motor.. just warm or full operating temp?
4) Impact them out.. 3/8 impact, 14mm socket ground flat.
5) Replace with nickel anti-seize.

Sound good? Anything I’m missing or haven’t thought of?
 

JC SSP

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I used liquid wrench and a pry bar. Started the engine just before I pulled them out. They all came out without any issues. I have the tool ready just in case one breaks.
 

07 Boss

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So for anyone who is going to or recently swapped your plugs, a little advice. Once a year, from here on out, pull your plugs and inspect them. Clean them up and reinstall them. Some of us older folk learned to do this and it has just stuck with me. Even in todays age of computerized digital ignition, knock sensor, and what not, it's not a bad idea to learn how to read a spark plug. I mean back in the day that is one way to find out what is going on inside your motor. But even if you just pull them and clean them this will prevent any issues down the road. I have done this at least once a year and more if I'm tracking the car at all but I have never had an issue getting a spark plug stuck. In fact I don't use any method when pulling my plugs. A little bump on the ratchet and the just unscrew by hand. It's when we let plugs sit in the car for tens of thousands of miles that we begin to have issues. I'm an old fart so I don't listen to anyone when they say 100K for spark plugs and 10K for oil changes, I just think that BS.
 

Pentalab

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So for anyone who is going to or recently swapped your plugs, a little advice. Once a year, from here on out, pull your plugs and inspect them. Clean them up and reinstall them. Some of us older folk learned to do this and it has just stuck with me. Even in todays age of computerized digital ignition, knock sensor, and what not, it's not a bad idea to learn how to read a spark plug. I mean back in the day that is one way to find out what is going on inside your motor. But even if you just pull them and clean them this will prevent any issues down the road. I have done this at least once a year and more if I'm tracking the car at all but I have never had an issue getting a spark plug stuck. In fact I don't use any method when pulling my plugs. A little bump on the ratchet and the just unscrew by hand. It's when we let plugs sit in the car for tens of thousands of miles that we begin to have issues. I'm an old fart so I don't listen to anyone when they say 100K for spark plugs and 10K for oil changes, I just think that BS.
After the M90 blower went in, abt a yr later, replaced the plugs with BRISK plugs....and gapped to .035" (5 psi boost). The misfires as indicated on the aeroforce gauges...dropped to zero. Dunno if the ford dealer reduced the oem gap on the oem plugs from .060" down to .035" or not.

Use 100% synthetic eng oil. Semi synthetic is junk. I collect next to nothing in the catch can with 100% synthetic......... but full to the top with Ford semi synthetic.
 

GriffX

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After the M90 blower went in, abt a yr later, replaced the plugs with BRISK plugs....and gapped to .035" (5 psi boost). The misfires as indicated on the aeroforce gauges...dropped to zero. Dunno if the ford dealer reduced the oem gap on the oem plugs from .060" down to .035" or not.
Had similar problems with my tuned supercharged Mercedes, lowered the gap. In the end I found that the ignition coils were worn. You can measure the resistance of the coils, they wear over time resulting in lower spark voltage.

Do these Chinese copies of the Lisle tool work? Hard to get an original in Europe. Haven't changed the plugs since 2007 :whistle1:
 

MasterofDisaster

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Really depends on the year of your Mustang. I have an 08 with brown coil boots, so I don't have to worry about the two piece plug. I still let some carb cleaner sit in the plug well overnight. Plugs came out fine.
 

Forty61

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I have the black boots, definitely the problem plugs, pretty sure they’re factory plugs so they’re 16 years old with 80k on them.

I soaked them overnight with PB Penetrant, cracked them all about 1/8-1/4 turn earlier today and let them soak a few more hours. Once the kids go down for the night I’m going to fire it up just long enough to get some heat in them and then hit them with the impact.. fingers crossed!

UPDATE:
8 of 8 came out as intended! My only minor concern is the tiny piece missing off the tip of the last one in the photo, but as clean as it is it must have happened pulling them out so I’ll crank it over without plugs in it just to be safe before I put the new ones in. Gonna head to the auto store in the morning for anti-seize, I thought I had some but I can’t find it.

IMG_5561.jpeg
 
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Miker

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My 2004 5.4 3V F150 is still running the original plugs and coils at 115K. I'm never changing them as long as it continues to run okay. Could it run better? Sure, but I would have to move out of CA so I could get some decent gas....
If spark plug access was as good as the Mustangs 4.6 I might give it a go.
 

GriffX

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Why do they not break immediately when you crack them 1/8 turn ? Or, when do the tip seize in the cylinder head?
 

Miker

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Why do they not break immediately when you crack them 1/8 turn ? Or, when do the tip seize in the cylinder head?

That is why I don't get the 1/8 to 1/4 turn procedure. When I do it I am going to get the engine hot and zip them out.
 

Forty61

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Why do they not break immediately when you crack them 1/8 turn ? Or, when do the tip seize in the cylinder head?

That is why I don't get the 1/8 to 1/4 turn procedure. When I do it I am going to get the engine hot and zip them out.

Honestly it’s a good question, I’m curious how the two pieces of the plugs are joined together but not interested enough to go digging and find out.

All I know is it worked for me to crack them, soak them and then impact them out. I used my little 3/8 battery impact, I didn’t bother to warm the motor, I buzzed them back and forth about a half turn before buzzing them all the way out.
 

07 Boss

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They break because of the long barrel design and long spark plug change interval. Carbon and shit builds up around the barrel of the plug so when you extract the plug all of that build up hold on to the barrel of the plug and it either doesn't spin when you unscrew the plug or it just gets stuck and won't come out. This is why it is suggested to put anti-seize on the barrel of the plug (not the threads) when you install them to help prevent this shit from building up. So it's not the threads that are the problem it is the long plug barrel. The 1/4 or 1/2 turn method is to try and crack them loose and let the penetrating oil seep past the plugs and to the barrel of the plug. And like I said earlier, if you just pull them and wipe them down occasionally this will prevent the issue from reoccurring.
 

rocknrod

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Last night I pulled my plugs. I had sprayed Creep in each of the them first thing in the morning. The engine was cold, I used a 1/2 breaker bar and popped each one maybe 1/8 turn if that. Came back to the first one and they all came out without issue.
My replacements are one piece design. So should I anti-seize the barrels of these?
 
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DieHarder

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Last night I pulled my plugs. I had sprayed Creep in each of the them first thing in the morning. The engine was cold, I used a 1/2 breaker bar and popped each one maybe 1/8 turn if that. Came back to the first one and they all came out without issue.
My replacements are one piece design. So should I anti-seize the barrels of these?
Yes, though your car is for all intents and purposes brand new so I wouldn't imagine you'd have any problems.
 

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