So I have had some issues. Drop in oil pressure and broken tensioners. I thought the oil pressure issue was due to a bad filter but I now think that the oil is not draining back into the pan properly. When the issue first occurred it was goin to work, about 14 miles. I lost oil pressure just at the end of this trip. Towed it home, changed the oil and filter and started her up. Pressure was good and then I changed out the broken timing components. Started her up and things looking good. 65 psi of pressure on cold start up and then after she warmed up she was about 28 psi. Pressure responded well to throttle input, about 10 psi for every 1K rpms. Anyways I took her to work this morning and just as I was getting to work I noticed the pressure dropping. Weird. Anyways I pulled over and checked the oil and the dipstick was dry. I know I had slightly overfilled it when I changed the oil. So I sat there for a while and then checked the oil again and it showed about a qt. low. Started her up and drove the couple of blocks to work with the pressure fluctuating. So this leads me to believe that there is a drainback issue. I ordered some liquid moly engine flush and I some liquid moly sludge remover. Besides that what can be done to help with the issue?
Oil Drain Back???
- Thread starter 07 Boss
- Start date
Pump is putting out pressure. When the pressure dropped there was no oil on the dipstick. Sat there and then there was some oil drained back into the pan and I drove it a couple more blocks to work with decent pressure.
Midlife Crises
Senior Member
The only oil return galley I’m aware of is in the cylinder heads along the exhaust port sides of the casting and matched to similar galleys in the block. They are not very big but you would have to have quite a build up of sludge to block them. The goo would be visible with the valve covers off for sure. Then there is the front cover and timing area that seems pretty wide open for oil to drain back.
This.
Only time Ive seen an oil drainback issue is with severly sludged up engine.
Well I will limp her back home keeping an eye on the pressure and then try some engine flush. I found some of the liquid moly sludge eliminator which is supposed to be better than the liquid moly engine flush. I only think it's stronger because it is not sold here in the states and is they say it's not designed for american cars??? But I found some on amazon with German labels.
Okay, so I checked the oil, started her up and drove home.
This was my gauge on start up.
Anyways, it’s one stop light and then the freeway pretty much all the way home. Kept it below 2500 rpm and pressure was steady at about 35 psi. Then about 10 miles in and almost home I see it starting to creep downward a bit. I could feel the car surge a bit and the manifold vacuum seemed to fluctuate a bit. I’m assuming the low lower pressure maybe was affecting the cam timing. She dropped down to about 20 psi and I pulled over. Waited about 15 minutes and fired her back up for the 1/2 mile to my house. Pressure fluctuated but stayed above 25 psi and I’m home.
This was my gauge on start up.
Anyways, it’s one stop light and then the freeway pretty much all the way home. Kept it below 2500 rpm and pressure was steady at about 35 psi. Then about 10 miles in and almost home I see it starting to creep downward a bit. I could feel the car surge a bit and the manifold vacuum seemed to fluctuate a bit. I’m assuming the low lower pressure maybe was affecting the cam timing. She dropped down to about 20 psi and I pulled over. Waited about 15 minutes and fired her back up for the 1/2 mile to my house. Pressure fluctuated but stayed above 25 psi and I’m home.
Last edited:
lwarrior1016
Member
This happened on my old 2v, and it was because when the chain guides failed, the debris clogged up the pickup tube screen.
Well the more I think about it it might have more to do with oil temp. I mean correlation is not always causation but maybe the backing plate on the pump has been deformed and when the oils viscosity gets too thin it can’t keep the pressure up.
May throw some 50w in there just to see if there’s a difference. If there is it would be the pump. At least I have one sitting in the living room.
Anyways, leave tomorrow for a boys’ trip with my son tomorrow. Driving a Q50. Couldn’t afford the v8 this trip so settled for the twin turbo 6. Gonna hit up Universal and Knotts. Then I’ll have a few days when I get back before I gotta go back to work to figure out my next move.
May throw some 50w in there just to see if there’s a difference. If there is it would be the pump. At least I have one sitting in the living room.
Anyways, leave tomorrow for a boys’ trip with my son tomorrow. Driving a Q50. Couldn’t afford the v8 this trip so settled for the twin turbo 6. Gonna hit up Universal and Knotts. Then I’ll have a few days when I get back before I gotta go back to work to figure out my next move.
I have a BMR K-member. I think I can get the pan off with pulling the motor, no?
Midlife Crises
Senior Member
If the oil pump back plate was leaking or the pickup screen was restricted the oil would be in the pan. Same with the pump relief valve. The oil would simply return to the pan.
Dont know.
Something like that would let you remove the k member.
I got this if I need it.
And one of the issues I'm having is having the Firechicken in the way. I think I'm going to get that moving (needs rear end and brakes built and put on) and then I can utilize the garage and quickjack and stuff and not on a sloped paver driveway.
Badd GT
forum member
I lost an engine due to bad by pass spring in oil pump. I had the same issue of oil pressure good then no good. Figured it was bad gauge…… wrong, it was bad pump
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