Engine Rebuild Saga Please Help me Thanks

Hi guys i'm new posting to this forum but i have been reading and gathering a lot of good information here the past months. Thanks for making such a great and neat Forum. Well i have had my stang for a year now and i decided to rebuild my engine, finally last weekend i started the tear down of the car with a kind of idea of what i want. until today the mods on my sign were everything my car has done.

What i have plan to do is in order like this:

Remove the block of the car, take everything out (pistons, rods crank)
Take it to South Florida Machine shop so they can install a Cobra Crankshaft, Manley H Beam Rods and pinstons. Port and polish heads intake and exhaust ports.

After i get the engine and heads back, install Comp Cams stage 3 kit from brenspeed. put all accesories back, replace my flywheel with a light alumnium one, (i have an auto tranny) get a big tranny cooler, TCI torque converter, Spydershaft and 4.10 gears.

As long as long tube headers. here is where i get a little undecied, since i want to go turbo i have in mind a Single kit turbo like the hellion kit. with the T60 turbo ball bearing turbo (i think its enough for me) i would have to modify the piping i belive for the LTs. or on a more complicated case buy a turbo and make piping myself.

i have a pretty good mechanics base. i have tools an acess to more tools. space, time, not that much money but i do have time. i want a nicely done car that wond break i think 500hp would be real safe with forged internals, the bolts on and i belive i wouldn't have to boost that much to get there. anyway way i would like to know what would you guys think, if there is something i may need to change. and if you may a list of things that you would do in my case. Thanks again guys

i have so many questions i forget. before orthering the pistons i need to tell the the CP i want i know the stock is 9.8 people tell me that if i will go FI i shuld lowe the compression im not sure please help. another thing i was think of a stroker kit i read somewhere that eagle make a kit that makes the engine a 296 or something like that without having to bore the engine. please can someone xplain that to me. and another question is. What do you guys think about the rotating assambly that steedas offer for our cars. its from eagle, everything is forged ans it saids its rated for 1000hp
http://www.steeda.com/products/eagle_forged_balanced_reciprocating_masses.php/


and here is basicly what i wanted

http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/online/product_info.php?cPath=60_82&products_id=1826

thanks again guys

I am not trying to be an ass but I question your mechanical background if you think an auto needs an aluminum flywheel. You can get an SFI approved 8 bolt flexplate for your auto from PA transmissions.



Earl

his spelling and grammer mistakes rival my own haha

what i ment was that i have skills doing mechanic work, like others im not scare of doing it, and i have done a lot of stuff. i know you are not trying to be an asshole, thanks for correcting me i just didn't remember the term flexplate and i tough ppl would understand what i meant. i knew i had to change it since the stock crank is 6 bolts and the cobra crank is 8 bolts. thanks.

and when it comes to my spelling and grammar yes i suck at writting a 3rd leangue, but at least i can comunicate. Thanks

kleistang said:

what i ment was that i have skills doing mechanic work, like others im not scare of doing it, and i have done a lot of stuff. i know you are not trying to be an asshole, thanks for correcting me i just didn't remember the term flexplate and i tough ppl would understand what i meant. i knew i had to change it since the stock crank is 6 bolts and the cobra crank is 8 bolts. thanks.

and when it comes to my spelling and grammar yes i suck at writting a 3rd leangue, but at least i can comunicate. Thanks

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Welcome

GIG4FUN said:

Welcome

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Thanks

kleistang said:

I have so many questions, I forget. Before ordering the pistons, I need to tell the engine builder the compression ratio I want. I know the stock compression ratio is 9.8. People tell me that if I go FI I should lower the compression. I am not sure, please help.

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I can tell you that if you plan on driving on the street with pump gas, definitely lower the compression ratio---especially if you are going over 12psi of boost. Sure you will have more power on race gas with the higher compression, but your street tune will have so little timing in it that driveability will suffer.

As far as the bottom end---if you go with the seanhylandmotorsport kit find out what pistons they are using. I like JE myself. The steeda kit looks bullet proof for your planned 500 rwhp---but thats obviously only if its assembled right and tuned right. Even good parts will fail with detonation.

Thanks psfracer, i am waiting to hear from steeda on the inquire i made about the kit. you have a similar setup of what i was looking for, what i want is a car in the 10s that could also be driven on the street. it will not be a dd i can tell you that, but i would defenetly would like to go out on it some times. and yeah im planning on staying on pump gas for now. what kind of boost would i need to get to your numbers with that whipple. i'll be running a t60 turbo and just want to compere psi set ups. Thanks again

Building the shortblock is the obvious right thing to do , but I would not change the manifolds. If you get the Hellion Kit its designed to use the stock mnifolds which is the best thing to do , No problem with cracking welds from a/m headers during the hot and cold cycles. Your not going to make a difference in power by putting long tube headers. Believe me keep the factory manifolds there designed to withstand all the abuse of hot and cold cycles.
If your going to have a built motor with ported heads then I would also not run the 60mm Turbo. Upgrade to the 76mm or even 70mm or 67mm. You'll make 500 rwhp at 9 psi's with the 76mm.
With a built motor 63# Seiman Deka injectors , upgraded Fuel System , and 15 psi's which is nothing for these Turbos you'll make 600 rwhp easily.

Pete

TurboPete said:

Building the shortblock is the obvious right thing to do , but I would not change the manifolds. If you get the Hellion Kit its designed to use the stock mnifolds which is the best thing to do , No problem with cracking welds from a/m headers during the hot and cold cycles. Your not going to make a difference in power by putting long tube headers. Believe me keep the factory manifolds there designed to withstand all the abuse of hot and cold cycles.
If your going to have a built motor with ported heads then I would also not run the 60mm Turbo. Upgrade to the 76mm or even 70mm or 67mm. You'll make 500 rwhp at 9 psi's with the 76mm.
With a built motor 63# Seiman Deka injectors , upgraded Fuel System , and 15 psi's which is nothing for these Turbos you'll make 600 rwhp easily.

Pete

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Thanks for the advide. if thats the case what i save on the headers ill make it up witht he bigger turbo then. pete did i meet you at the track the otherday? i think i reconize your white cars and wheels. you are the guy with the hellion kit from mak right.

Yes thats Me I was there with the MAK Performance trailer, wait which track Moroso or Countyline?

Pete

countyline, im the guy with the yellow s197

kleistang said:

countyline, im the guy with the yellow s197

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Ok! I remember. We're going to Moroso on Saturday try and make it if you can.
Now back to the topic at hand. Leave the stock manifolds on , get a 70 or 76mm to take advantage of the built short block and turn the boost up.
You'll make over 600 easily .

Pete

I honestly would not buy anything from Steeda or Hyland. Contact Larry H on this board or ModularPerformance.com.

TurboPete said:

Ok! I remember. We're going to Moroso on Saturday try and make it if you can.
Now back to the topic at hand. Leave the stock manifolds on , get a 70 or 76mm to take advantage of the built short block and turn the boost up.
You'll make over 600 easily .

Pete

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Pete i'd love to but im pulling the engine out on saturday, and it's not worth to go race the Mazda3. 600hp you think my tranny would hold that. what rearend you think i should put on i was thinking on 4.10s and mkt drag radials on stock wheels to go to the tracK.


if i go with higher psi to 600hp on pump gas what should the compression be lower to ?

I would go with 3.73 , no more then that. Get a Detroit Tru-Track if you want something stronger , although Im still using the factory diff on my car , all I did was change the gear.

I dont remember if your car is stick or auto, if its auto you need to get a tranny cooler , high temps kill the auto's .
If you get a Boost Controller like Im getting you can change the boost in each gear which will help the tranny last longer.

Eventually you'll need a built tranny to be safe with the power you can put out.

As far as the pump gas goes , id rather be safe and run c16 with high boost settings. Pump gas will be fine on the street with a built motor and 12 psi's just watch the timing.

There are alot of variables .

Pete

Anyone may tell me a rough average of what i would be charged if i want to get my heads ported and polish ? and maybe a valve job. Thanks

kleistang said:

Anyone may tell me a rough average of what i would be charged if i want to get my heads ported and polish ? and maybe a valve job. Thanks

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Lots. Porting these heads is time consuming. Most people will simply buy a set of CNC ported heads because of time constraints and the "just swap 'em out" philosophy. Should you have someone port them and do a good valve job you could be looking at anywhere from $900-$1500 for the complete job. Since you are in Florida you might want to contact Al Papitto at Boss 330 Racing or Blow-By Racing.

i talked to a guy who s charging me 1200 with the valve jod done, he did my friends 302 heads and they look pretty sharp. i will talk to another shop and see what they say if its higher ill do it with this guy. im not in a rush so either if he takes 1 month just to complete the heads it doesnt matter. plus he said i can just like him the heads and just call them when i need them and he will do them for you, he just dont like ppl that just live stuff there for a long time after they are done.