4.56's slowed down my Coyote - advice, please

wbt

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Like the others said a good tune and a cold air kit will wake the car up for sure but I wouldn't waste the money on the boss intake, i saw zero usable gains with it

No to the CAI....

Both manual and auto 5.0's I have owned picked up with the Boss intake. It is a worthwhile investment if you have the supporting mods. If you aren't willing to spin the motor high and have the supporting mods for it, it will be a hindrance.
 

qwikhuh

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No to the CAI....

Both manual and auto 5.0's I have owned picked up with the Boss intake. It is a worthwhile investment if you have the supporting mods. If you aren't willing to spin the motor high and have the supporting mods for it, it will be a hindrance.

Just posting my personal experiences with it. I saw gains from my JLT but I would not say its a must have part. Only gains I saw with the boss intake were over 7000 RPMS and they were minimal and not worth spinning the motor to 8000 to achieve.
 

46Tbird

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Instead of looking at my best runs, I took a look at my average runs.

3.73 gears / 4.56 gears

89.99 / 87.11 = 1/8 mile mph
If the DA was similar (you indicated it was) then the lower speeds are indicating a problem. I understand completely that a hard launch and possibly an extra shift can drop some MPH, but losing basically 3mph is a sign that power is way down. I suggest pulling the plugs and doing a leakdown test.
 

wbt

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Just posting my personal experiences with it. I saw gains from my JLT but I would not say its a must have part. Only gains I saw with the boss intake were over 7000 RPMS and they were minimal and not worth spinning the motor to 8000 to achieve.

I saw .06 over stock with the brand J CAI.

I saw minimum 2.5 tenths from switching to the Boss intake.

One is $300.....the other is $450. You tell me which one has more potential.

The quickest/fastest street legal stock long block N/A 2011+ 5.0's all run the Boss intake. The patterns speaks for itself.
 

Five Oh Brian

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If the DA was similar (you indicated it was) then the lower speeds are indicating a problem. I understand completely that a hard launch and possibly an extra shift can drop some MPH, but losing basically 3mph is a sign that power is way down. I suggest pulling the plugs and doing a leakdown test.

I agree that the lower speeds indicate a loss of power. I've done plenty of gear swaps and steeper gear usually mean quicker ET's with trap speeds staying the same, or a slight loss. 3 mph in the 1/8 mile and 4-5 mph in the 1/4 mile is not a good thing. Definitely has me a bit worried now.
 

Marc s

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I agree that the lower speeds indicate a loss of power. I've done plenty of gear swaps and steeper gear usually mean quicker ET's with trap speeds staying the same, or a slight loss. 3 mph in the 1/8 mile and 4-5 mph in the 1/4 mile is not a good thing. Definitely has me a bit worried now.

The low MPH might be clutch related. Your clutch was pretty darn stinky while sitting in the staging lanes. I still think your ET issue is in the tune though. Even though I can tell you are shifting fast, the car looks like it doesn't recover very fast between shifts. I can see and hear you shifting but the car doesn't respond.
 

8306gt

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I agree that the lower speeds indicate a loss of power. I've done plenty of gear swaps and steeper gear usually mean quicker ET's with trap speeds staying the same, or a slight loss. 3 mph in the 1/8 mile and 4-5 mph in the 1/4 mile is not a good thing. Definitely has me a bit worried now.

I seriously doubt the car is down on power, or anything else is wrong with it other than your refusal to use the gears you installed. How could you expect to keep the same mph and improve ET if you are not willing to spin the engine up to take advantage of the gearing. I guess I'm a little confused but I just don't understand the logic of going 4.56's to try and improve ET, but not wanting to spin it because its your daily driver.
 

wbt

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I'll say it once more....3.73 and a better tune. If you think you have it all figured out then great.
 

dragpac

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The lowest et's Always come from the guys willing to launch,shift and drive the hardest.So without trying to hurt your daily driver and i fully under stand just be happy with what you have.Also i agree with the feel of lower gears and how they just drive better even when they dont result in lower ets so if You like them keep them.imo
 

Five Oh Brian

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The low MPH might be clutch related. Your clutch was pretty darn stinky while sitting in the staging lanes. I still think your ET issue is in the tune though. Even though I can tell you are shifting fast, the car looks like it doesn't recover very fast between shifts. I can see and hear you shifting but the car doesn't respond.

IMO, the clutch smell was only later in the day after a bunch of hot laps and the car was trapping low all day long, so I don't think it's slipping (yet). And the 4.56's make it easy to launch the car hard without slipping the clutch.

It's nice to have some confirmation from you that my shifting sounds fast (I think I shift with the best of them, even if I lift for every shift). Having you at the line watching our passes and providing feedback is priceless - thanks, Marc!!!

I'm compiling a list of winter mods that currently includes a wotbox so I can eliminate lifting during shifts, better tuning than my current canned garbage tune, and better breathing (h-or x-pipe, high-flow cats, CAI) to help trap bump my trap speed.

As much as I loved the automatic in my '07 GT to stay in the boost between shifts, I sure love rowing through the gears in my '07 GT - especially since it's a daily driver. Just gotta find a way to iron out the kinks at the track despite the manual trans.
 

uncle phil

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I saw .06 over stock with the brand J CAI.

I saw minimum 2.5 tenths from switching to the Boss intake.

One is $300.....the other is $450. You tell me which one has more potential.

The quickest/fastest street legal stock long block N/A 2011+ 5.0's all run the Boss intake. The patterns speaks for itself.
Your probably right but you have to be willing to go with more gear and a looser converter.:thanks
 

Five Oh Brian

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I seriously doubt the car is down on power, or anything else is wrong with it other than your refusal to use the gears you installed. How could you expect to keep the same mph and improve ET if you are not willing to spin the engine up to take advantage of the gearing. I guess I'm a little confused but I just don't understand the logic of going 4.56's to try and improve ET, but not wanting to spin it because its your daily driver.

I spin it to 7,200 rpm's. How high do you think I should be spinning a factory short block, out of curiousity? With stock intake and exhaust components, a Coyote doesn't really make more power past 7,200 rpm's anyway. Granted, if I had the Boss 302 intake, bigger MAF, bigger TB, and supporting exhaust you can get more power up top past 7,200 rpm's, but my engine is 100% stock.
 

Five Oh Brian

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The lowest et's Always come from the guys willing to launch,shift and drive the hardest.So without trying to hurt your daily driver and i fully under stand just be happy with what you have.Also i agree with the feel of lower gears and how they just drive better even when they dont result in lower ets so if You like them keep them.imo

Amen; thanks!
 

Grabber Blue 5.0

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I don't know why you're so set on those 4.56's. There are plenty of guys with manuals and 3.31's that run a heck of a lot faster than your times. Go back to the 3.73's and get a good tune, then see how it goes.
 
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ford20

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I don't know why you're so set on those 4.56's. There are plenty of guys with manuals and 3.31's that run a heck of a lot faster than your times. Go back to the 3.73's and get a good tune, then see how it goes.

It's more then just that, he also likes the way the car feels and drives now. IMO he is trying to find a good balance between a daily driver and a good performing street/strip car. IMO if he found a gearing that he likes on the street and can get it to preform on the track then I see no harm in trying and keeping the 4.56's and trying to get the best he can out of them.
 

Five Oh Brian

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It's more then just that, he also likes the way the car feels and drives now. IMO he is trying to find a good balance between a daily driver and a good performing street/strip car. IMO if he found a gearing that he likes on the street and can get it to preform on the track then I see no harm in trying and keeping the 4.56's and trying to get the best he can out of them.

You absolutely nailed it. First and foremost, this is my daily driver and I love lots of gear and when I've had automatic cars I like big stall converters, too. I had 4.30's in my '03 Mach 1, 4.10's in my '07 GT, 4.10's in my '93 T-Bird 5.0L, 3.90's in my '68 GTO, 3.73's in my '89 5.0L LX, etc. My '11 is a daily driver 99% of the time, so while drag racing results are important to me, it's how the car feels as a daily driver that's more important to me.

IMHO, the 3.73's in my '11 5.0L always felt sluggish, but this car replaced my supercharged '07 GT automatic that had a 4800 rpm stall and 4.10's, so it's all relative, I suppose. Sure, there are guys with 3.31's going fast, but my car is pretty much factory stock other than gears, axlebacks, and a crappy tune. I've driven plenty of 3.31 5.0L's and I would NOT want that for daily driving as it sucks too much fun out of it as they just don't "feel" fast even if they are.
 

BlackDragon

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That "feel" you are gaining around town is killing your top end. You will have great launches and 1/8th mile, but you 1/4 times will suffer when compared to someone going through the traps at redline in 4th. 1.32:1 beats 1:1
 

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