for those of you with lightweight batteries...

Kaldar142

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With all due respect, that's hogwash. It is still in front of the center of gravity, so it's not "neutral". Losing weight anywhere is a good thing. And if you can't lose it, then shifting it to the rear is better than having it in front of the firewall.

I agree, anything to help balance out the front to rear weight balance.

although the stock location is still much better than most cars, my subaru it was right in the way front of the car behind the headlight... (wtf??)


Thats awesome. You havent had problems with the car? Electronics stuff works fine? Cranking ok?


cranks better than it did with the stock battery actually.

electronics work fine but i dont have anything fancy, just stock stereo system.

the only thing i notice that is different is that my idle fluxates when i initially clutch in (dips to around 550, back to 700, back down to 550 then stabalizes around 800)

i don't know if that happened before, maybe i just noticed it now... i'm going to try raising the idle.

i just put it in though, so we'll see... only guys i see using this battery are typically hondas, evos and subarus.

hopefully it will work out well, if not it was only $60.
 

Matt D

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the man lost 25 lbs for $60 give this man a hand of applause. Losing 25 lbs is losing 25 lbs I don't care where it is... in the back, front, if you lost 25lbs off your stomach who cares!
 

1BADHRSE

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How long you think it will last... I am in the market for a new batt and was thinking about a Optima but thats DOUGH...
 

Kaldar142

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Only time will tell, so far so good... Made it to work alright. LOL

So matt, I'm on a weight reduction spree and by the end of today Ill have dropped 80lbs off the car with 3 things... Driveshaft, rear seat delete and lightweight battery. Next is the steeda radiator support and a set of corbeaus. Hopefully with corbeaus and steeda lightweight radiator support I'll drop roughly another 40 lbs if my calculations are correct.

After that I'm not sure what else I can do aside from K-member.
 

94tbird

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i agree it would be better to move it to the rear, but in its position it isn't hurting much imo. plenty of other things would see better gains, not to mention running large electrical lines the length of the car plus the batt box, plus ventilation, ect
 

Blazing Saddles

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Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer,
some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When
the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must
relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and
performance. To begin this process:
1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park) (automatic transmission) or the neutral
position (manual transmission), turn off all accessories and start the
engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.



The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to

relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.


If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle

quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is eventually relearned.

 

Blazing Saddles

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the man lost 25 lbs for $60 give this man a hand of applause. Losing 25 lbs is losing 25 lbs I don't care where it is... in the back, front, if you lost 25lbs off your stomach who cares!

+1

It's always the Boosty Boys that dis the weight reduction. Us N/A guys will take ET reduction anywhere we can find it. All the little stuff adds up.
 

luv2cheat

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DEKA EXT14

its the same thing Braille uses, except its not overpriced.

SO, i don't know if this is battery related or not... but i had it disconnected for a while (obviously) but when i'm driving and i clutch in, the RPMs dip to about 500, rise to 650 dip to 500 then go back to around 750... ???

I have not seen an EXT14. Is it an ETX14? If so that's a good price on that battery. I am kind of surprised 200cca will start you car good. I have been looking at the ETX30L Deka. Its 365cca and weighs 21 pounds. We sell Deka batteries at the parts store I work at part time. I Load tested an ETX30L and it had a little over 500CA @ 70 degrees. I have not had a Braille in my possession to load test but they claim way more CA? So I am not 100% convinced the Dekas are the same. But I do think for the price difference a DEKA is worth a try.

Anyway where did you get the top post adapters? I have been searching at the store with no luck.

Here is a link to the Deka AGM specs
http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0278.pdf
 

Kaldar142

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Yes it was a typo, I'll send you a link once I get off work for the battey posts.

Braille has many different batteries, most if not all are just deka batteries that are relabeled.

Deka under rates their batteries also from what I have researched. A good alternative to mine is the ETX20, it's only 15lbs but has more power.
 

Jeepngli

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Are those little batteries fine for an every day DD? I hear some of those lightweight batteries are for track cars or whatever and need a jump a lot of times.
 

don_w

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+1

It's always the Boosty Boys that dis the weight reduction. Us N/A guys will take ET reduction anywhere we can find it. All the little stuff adds up.
Keep in mind that I'm one of those "boosty boys" and I said earlier in this thread: "Losing weight anywhere is a good thing." :clap:
 

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