07 Aluminator build

[explict]

Or the bolts were low grade mild steel that shouldn't be used in this application.

 

[BruceH]

What were the bolts torqued to?

 

[explict]

Whatever the instructions instructed.

 

[Vapour Trails]

The pulley to snout bolts are supposed to be torqued to 125 in/lbs.

That's pretty brutal after all this waiting.

 

[explict]

Steeda called me this morning and asked if the blower spun freely right now. I said yes I tried spinning it myself. They say the only thing they could think of as a cause is the blower stop spinning, bolts not being loctited or not being torqued. I actually bought a new torque wrench when I took on this project so that I don't miss a thing. And where there is instruction, I read and obey

He said afterward he will discuss with the engineers about the failure. I hope this doesn't take long.

 

[Vapour Trails]

Steeda called me this morning and asked if the blower spun freely right now. I said yes I tried spinning it myself. They say the only thing they could think of as a cause is the blower stop spinning, bolts not being loctited or not being torqued. I actually bought a new torque wrench when I took on this project so that I don't miss a thing. And where there is instruction, I read and obey

He said afterward he will discuss with the engineers about the failure. I hope this doesn't take long.

Is it at all possible the bolts were overtightened?

 

[explict]

Possible. But if there was a torque spec, it would have been torqued. I think there was a torque spec for these bolts. Like 12ft/lbs? Can't remember.

Can someone who has the belt drive do me a favor and go see if there are markings on their pulley bolts? Also if there are markings on the bolts attaching the machined piece that goes around the snout and the snout clamp piece. The Steeda guy told me all the bolts are 12.9, but 12.9 is not written on any of my bolts. I just though of this..

 

[GT RO]

Just saw this, that is just terrible ! Hope you get things sorted out . I hate to see a fellow mustang junkie having issues .

 

[klaw]

I'll check my bolts tonight.

 

[cycosarge]

Hey man, new here, I just wanted to ask you, why did you engine blow in the first place?

I ask because I am looking at buying an Aluminator as well, I am running a Kenne Bell 2.6L at 10 lbs of boost on a bone stock motor. Is my engine about to explode?

 

[klaw]

pick one - any one:

1) bad tune,
2) bad gas,
3) weak parts,
4) operator error,
5) manufacturing flaw,
6) punishment by a higher power,
5) unknown,
6) any combination of the above,
7) all of the above

 

[cycosarge]

LOL!!!

 

[BruceH]

Just looked at mine. All have 12.9 on them.

Edit: I don't have the Steeda belt drive, these are the Whipple supplied cap bolts.

 

[klaw]

All 4 capscrews in the upper 10-rib pulley on mine have "YFS" & "12.9"

Installation instructions say to use "threadlocker" - I used blue - torque spec is 12 ft-lbs.

 

[Vapour Trails]

Hey man, new here, I just wanted to ask you, why did you engine blow in the first place?

I can answer this, it was tuned by a retard.

After it blew, he posted the tune file on this site and a couple experts looked it over. Basically, it had many major mistakes which in short order caused destructive denotation.

10 psi on a stock engine is generally ok if the calibration and fuel are of high quality.

I've been running 9 psi for 10,000 kms, runs perfect. Using the tune I have and the 9 psi pulley, I'm confident the body would rust out before the engine went.

 

[klaw]

Well, we had virtually the same tune file from the same tuner (mine was done first) on very similar setups and mine ran fine, made good power, and held together no problem. The longblock was pulled when I did the forged stroker swap and is still sitting here in the shop if anyone wants to inspect it for issues. In fact, a friend of mine is still driving his with the exact same combination - no issues at all and he drag races it at Race City.

The only thing that I noticed was that occasionally (maybe every 5th or 6th tank) after filling up at Esso (91 octane), the car would detonate under heavy load at the low end of the RPM range. I'd get out of it immediately and drive it easy until the next fill. After a few bad Esso experiences, I started using Shell exclusively and never had another problem. Could you call this a tune issue? Perhaps, although I'd probably call it a fuel quality issue.

I'd say that the combination of bad gas, loud stereo, and a street challenge could lead to an expensive repair - or a good excuse to upgrade depending on whether the cup is half full or half empty.

Like plane crashes and oil well blowouts, I think you'll find that there's usually more than one contributing factor to most catastrophic failures.

 

[explict]

Hey man, new here, I just wanted to ask you, why did you engine blow in the first place?

Tune has been exclusively blamed by the people who looked at it. Here are some points.


#1 - The spark tables are not renormalized for higher than 100% load. This is basic stuff. This should be done on any blown car.

#2 - The Torque Table is less than stock. Obviously this is wrong, it should be raised much higher. This is not a novice mistake, as there are alot of people that do not seem to understand drive by wire yet, however, if you don't understand how the table works, then don't mess with it. Obviously don't reduce it less than stock, now that the car makes much more torque than stock.

#3 - Knock Sensor is basically off at WOT. I do this at times, but only on cars that have false knock. A stock car with a Whipple doesn't need this turned off. This alone may have saved your engine.

#4 - Default Load table looks really whacked, IMHO.

#5 - MAF Temperature Compensation is modified. He is surely not smart enough to change this table without lots of data that he doesn't have access to. Most people (me included) zero this out unless the car is stock (N/A)

#6 - The fuel tables are raped. There are alot of "tooners" that do this. The fuel table is where you command what you want the airfuel to be, and if the MAF is dialed in, that is what you get. Some people (like in this tune) commanded stupid airfuel ratios to get a result, for instance this tune is commanding 8.79 AFR at full throttle above 6500 RPM. Obviously this is wrong.

#7 - No fuel pump tuning at all even when the fuel system is totally different in the kit.

#8 - and the one that may be the worst mistake in the tune and a possible cause for damage and also the ingenuity of raping the BFT up top is that the injectors delta pressure was left stock and the FGT stock 38s injectors won't hold up that power levels if you do not raise the pressure. Your Ford provided calibration did this.

My engine lasted just under 1000km's on this tune 850km's of which were driving on the highway home. The whipple tune lasted over 10,000km's without a problem. Made 451 on whipple tune (dynojet) and 417 on engine blowing tune (mustang dyno)

 

[cycosarge]

Great info guys.

 

[klaw]

The Steeda guy told me all the bolts are 12.9, but 12.9 is not written on any of my bolts. I just though of this..

I just checked mine again, the four pulley bolts are 12.9 spec but the four just behind the pulley holding the snout support bracket do NOT have the 12.9. According to the Steeda parts list, those four are 1/4"- 20 x 1" vs the M6 x 16's that are in the pulley.

I don't suppose you found any of the broken off cap screws did you?

 

[explict]

No I might go look later... I doubt I will find any though...