damp driver floorboard

james05gt

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Pull the rubber part off and there will be screws that hold that plastic piece onto the car. Replace that weatherproof seal with some seals you can buy at lowes. I did this two years ago and I have had no problems since and I have had every leak possible on this car but all is well now

Thank you sir! found the torx screws holding the trim. 17K mi and the foam seals are gone!! I replaced both sides. Thanks again for the tip.
 

07calspecial

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I am going through this very thing on my wife's V-6 coupe right now. My big question is how did you get rid of the mildew and the smell? Cars only
got 26K miles and every time we drive it the wife ends up with a headache from the mildew.
 

james05gt

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Mine didn't really smell like mildew or mold but check your carpet underneath. Pull the carpet up and check under the insulation. If its wet or still wet from a leak you would need to dry it, check for mold also. You can also use chemicals to get rid of the mildew smell, you can get them at grocery stores. The best way is to isolate water intrusion inside the cabin first, most likely you still have a leak somewhere.
 

Redfire_WNL

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I just took everything out the car and air dryed it after I sprayed some chemicals on the carpet. Best way like I said is to air dry it outside of the car
 

07calspecial

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Pulled all of this apart and found that the seal was hit or miss, so i replaced it with some foam weatherstripping from Lowes and sprayed the back of the carpet with some Tilex mildew killer (lots of bleach in that stuff) let it dry and lo and behold i think it's fixed. Happy days!
 

mathers

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Hi guys

I have the same leak in my 2006. Any idea what size torx bit the trim retainer screws use? I want to have the proper tools before I try to tackle this.
Thx.
 

nitrod86gt

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I dont know. It's medium sized. Buy a 10 dollar bit kit from Autozone. you need one anyway
 

mathers

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Fixed!

Thanks nitrod86gt for the pics and post! I fixed this myself without too much trouble - no more leaks! Hardest part was getting what was left of the old seals off the trim - Lots of paint thinner and elbow grease. Dealership wanted $1,100.00 to fix both sides and the passenger side 'under the fender' leak. I did them all myself for about $38.00.
 

nitrod86gt

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Just wanted to come back to this and report still no water or leaks since I replaced those seals. I hope some of you other guys have figured this out by now. It's an easy fix for a shitty problem.
 

jas2234

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I just saw this thread. I had this exact problem last April. the trim is two pieces and plastic spot welded. Most of the spot welds were broken. I ended up separating the two pieces, cleaned them really well and sealed them with rtv silicone. then used new foam weather stripping.

The reason for sealing them was the first time I put new foam on they still leaked. the water was getting between the seam. after the rtv there have been no leaks at all.

At the same time I found out about those leaks I also found two more. The were at both left/right door electrical harness seals. the one on the pass side was dripping right onto the junction box behind the kick panel.
 

joe_momma

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Bumping this up, think I'm having this problem. Anyone have part numbers/etc?
 

joe_momma

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The seals I'm finding are like $80/side. Ford part numbers AR3Z6320708A and -809A.

Am I looking at the right parts?
 

o2sys

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Maybe you can buy generic seals at Autozone, I've got this problem on my Driver side. Gonna have to take a look at this.
 

joe_momma

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I'm hoping it's just the "under cowl" problem that I'm having, and some urethane gasket sealer or whatever will fix it. I've had the cowl off a couple of times and maybe the Ford OEM gaskets are shot. I haven't inspected the weather stripping on the windows yet.
 

o2sys

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Ok I don't think mine is this problem. I checked the seals and looked good not like the OPs.

I took the chance and removed the cowls and nothing piled up either, the drain was bit dirty but wouldn't call it clogged.

Damn....
 

joe_momma

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Did you take the window seals off? And the cover over them at the side of the roof? How difficult was that?
 

o2sys

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You just peel the weather stripe for the windows then underneath you can see like 15 or so t15 torx screws. You just unscrew those and pull back. Takes like 10 min for all.

There is a thin film of weather stripe in between but mine was all uniformed and in tact.
 

joe_momma

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Right on, thanks for the info. I think I'm going to just silicone up my cowl holes tomorrow, and maybe take a peek at the window weather strip. It doesn't tear it up when you remove it does it? Meaning - I can put it all back together assuming everything looks ok?
 

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